6/23 Lee and I were up and out early to catch the first train to Montserrat this morning in an effort to beat the crowd. We took the Metro to Placa de Espanya where you connect with FGC. We bought a combo ticket for 19.50€ that covered a couple of Metro rides, the train to and from Montserrat, an audiovisual show, 2 funiculars on the mountain and either the cable car or funicular up to the monastery. We opted for the cable car which was the way to go. It was faster and gave great views. The train to Montserrat takes about 45 minutes but is scenic and comfortable.

As the train approaches Montserrat we could see the monastery high up on the mountain looking so impressive . It has been Catalunya´s more important pilgramage site for more than 1000 years. Montserrat is named from ¨serrated mountain¨ which is exactly what it looks like. The monastery is Benedictine, with 80 monks currently, and started around 900 AD. Legend has it that in medieval times, some shepherd children saw lights and heard songs coming from the mountain. They traced it to a cave (now called Santa Cova) where they found the Black Virgin statue (actually not black at all but darkened by centuries of candle smoke) making the monastery a pilgrim magnet.

In 1811, Napoleon´s invading French troops destroyed Montserrat´s buildings, though the Black Virgin survived, hidden away by monks. Then, in the 1830´s, the Spanish royalty-tired of dealing with pesky religious orders-dissolved the monasteries and convents. But in the 1850s, monks returned and rebuilt the monastery and basilica. Today, more than 3 million visitors a year come to Montserrat (including Pope John Paul II in 1982) .

Lee and I opted not to go to the Museu de Montserrat since we´d seen enough museums. The museum houses works by Caravaggio, Monet, Picasso, Degas and others. The Escolania is also housed at Montserrat and is Europe´s oldest music school. There is a lengthy audition process for the 10-14 year old boys accepted into the Montserrat Boys´Choir.

Lee and I went immediately to the basilica when we arrived so we could see the Black Virgin since she is not open to the public during services which are very freqnent. The Black Virgin, larger than I expected, is a 12th century (carbon dating) Romanesque wooden sculpture of Mary with the infant Jesus. The legends around the Black Virgin are many but today many newlyweds visit Montserrat to have their unions blessed by the Black Virgin. Montserrat is also the most popular day trip from Barcelona and it was easy to see why.

The spectacular scenery makes Montserrat one of the most amazing sights in Spain (and most anywhere) . The mountains rise to 1236 meters but seem so much higher because of the sheer, steep faces and the flat terrain surrounding the mountains. By taking one of two tram railways (funiculars) from the monastery complex you are able to take myriad hikes and gaze at Catalunya for miles and miles in any direction.

Since this was Lee´s last day he headed back to Barcelona before me to figure out his transportation logistics. I stayed longer and went to the audiovisual show which was sleek but not very interesting since it tracked a day in the life of a monk. I went to several of the miradors and just enjoyed the awesome views. I read a little just sitting in the strong breeze while enjoying the peace and quiet. Montserrat was truly a moving place made more so because of the fantastic natural environment.