7/18 From Siena to Sorrento required 4 different trains but was very efficient. Heading south from Siena I saw the pretty town of Orvieto perched on top of a mountain. We went through Florence and then I changed to a nice Eurostar (faster and more comfy) train in Rome. I had no more than 20 minutes between any of the connections which is why I love European train travel. The closer we got to Naples the uglier it got. That is just a nasty place.

In Naples you transfer from the normal trains in Italy to a private train line . The train was hot, crowded and ugly but I just watched where we were going. We passed Pompeii which reminded me of my first visit there with Tim McLean 17 years ago (we must be old now!). From the train you always had a view of Mt. Vesuvius. It started getting pretty shortly before Sorrento.

From the train station it was a short bus ride to the campground where I was staying. There are not many hotels in Sorrento or elsewhere on the Amalfi coast and the ones that are there tend to be very expensive. The campground had good reviews so I figured I'd rough it for a few days. And I did!

I checked in at the campground and after getting vague directions about the location of my tent cabin I set off with my 100 pound backpack to find it. Sweat was pouring off my body as I searched up and down in this huge campground. I finally found my tent cabin but it wasn't quite what I was expecting. It was a little more primitive plus I wasn't counting on a record-setting heat wave . Inside the cabin (similar to the ones in Kerrvile) it was worse than getting in a parked car in Houston in the summertime. I threw down my stuff and took a cold shower which helped (FYI-bring your own tp). Then it was off to explore the town.

Sorrento has about 20,000 permanent residents but gets inundated with tourists. It's the largest town near Amalfi and Positano and has the best transportation system. I followed Rick Steve's walking tour which starts in the large town square. Here the old and new towns are separated by a huge ravine. Nearby are ruins from the 5th century BC. Sorrento has an unspoiled old quarter and a spectacular cliffside setting. There are lots of cobblestone pedestrian streets full of shops selling anything lemon.

There is no sand beach in Sorrento since the coastline is virtually all high cliffs. A couple of ravines provide access to the water and the small harbor where excursions and ferries depart . Our campground had its own dock and solid rock beach.

In the old town is the famous Sorrento Mens Club. This institution was formed when the men realized that there was nowhere in town for them to gather in the afternoons and gab. In Italy this is a serious affair. The men built this really nice building and banned women (they had their own places to meet) and, later, banned phones (good for them!).

Sorrento is quite compact so the walking tour didn't take long. I picked up some groceries and then had dinner at Aurora Pizza which advertises more than 50 different pizzas. I chose the mushroom pizza (I think that's the only kind I've had during the trip) and was quite impressed. I do wish they would slice the pizza (the American way) since I think its awkward eating a pizza with a knife and fork.

7/19 Trip to Capri (separate entry)
7/20 Trip to Amalfi Coast (separate entry)

7/21 I got used to the tent cabin after that first night and didn't suffer quite as much . It would get real pleasant in the early morning hours. I just wish the kids wouldn't stay up so late drinking and yacking (yes, I'm an old stick in the mud.)

Since I had seen the big attractions (and couldn't take much more of the heat) I decided to cancel my stay in Salerno (in an un-airconditioned dorm). I searched the Internet for a place with good beaches that had affordable, air-conditioned lodging. I had my big National Geographic map of Italy out as well as Rick Steve's book. I ultimately picked Ravenna on the northeast coast. You can read later what it was like.

I was then ready to find a beach. It turns out that some famous ancient ruins, now a beach, were only a kilometer away. I walked up the winding road and then down the mountain to find Queen Joans Bath. These are old Roman baths and you can still see much of the rock structures. Now the area is just a public beach. The natural rock formations provided a scenic setting . There was a arch leading to a small lagoon that I swam into from the sea. That was a cool experience; also challenging since the seas were quite rough.

Some of the rock at the beach looked volcanic and was extremely difficult to walk on. Even with my water shoes it was a challenge getting into and out of the water. On the other side of the beach from the lagoon was a larger swimming area protected from the sea by a breakwater. I was, of course, in the middle of the two so I would get in the rough, open water to then swim in either direction. I saw some little schools of fish in the tranquil waters while I was just trying to breathe in the open water. It was really a beautiful beach since you could see Sorrento as well as Mt. Vesuvius.

Afterwards I headed into town and checked out an attraction Rick Steve's had recommended - the local lemon and orange grove. This orchard is almost on the water, practically in the middle of town . There were hundreds of lemon trees plus some hybrid trees that had been developed where oranges and lemons were growing on the same tree. It sure looked weird and I wonder how each would taste.

Walking back to the main square I encountered one of the highlights of Sorrento (and most any coastal town in Italy) - the evening stroll. Everyone it seems comes out in the evening to walk. They may not have a destination in mind but they are sure to run into people they know and see anything new in town. In Sorrento the main street is shut off from traffic and is taken over by pedestrians. It's really quite a sight. Most of the women are dressed up (by American standards) and it's just enjoyable people watching.

I had a long train ride in the morning so I stopped to pick up some groceries for the journey. Then on my way to the bus stop I did a total face plant! One minute I was walking along and the next I was sprawled on the sidewalk trying to keep my Diet Coke from spilling more. Of course I had to immediately get up to not look like a goober. I did a quick assessment and saw no blood and felt as messed up as before I fell so I marched on. I was thankful that it was my small backpack that I was carrying for had it been my big backpack I'd be flatter than a pancake. I looked to see what had tripped me and it was just a normal curb so I don't know what I did. It had occurred to me that perhaps there was sabotage involved. You see, I was right across the street from the only hospital in town. :-)

On to Ravenna.