When I landed at Jaipur it was 35c. Not as hot as I had feared. I had been huddled over a fire in Watching the week before, so this was quite a shock but indeed a pleasant one. Of course it was just a dry heat here and consequently hardly a problem. I checked in at the Khatu Haveli right in the middle of the pink city. It was fabulous and very friendly. Run by the owners Mr and Mrs Singh it was a far cry from the Omega Hotel in Longleng, Nagaland ( not hugely different in price). The bathroom alone was huge with the walk in shower most desirable.


I settled down to a great dinner with Mr and Mrs Singh that evening . They were the perfect hosts and excused my weariness after such a long distance travelled. The next morning I was up at 3.30am to go back to the airport to collect Dad. He trundled out of the terminal looking fine but with 45 kilos of luggage. This he explained was the fault of Etihad Airlines, who “would not let me leave them in Abu Dhabi! So I had to bring them.”  Karting these around India on airplanes, trains and rickshaws would be hell - I thought.


After a great breakfast, we left to explore the old city. A sort of full on experience for an Indian first timer and especially one in his 80th year but Dad coped remarkably well. Certainly all the traders in the stalls were pleased to see him and the street life was as fascinating as always. The heat was interesting, and I managed to get him to stop for a Chai plus some other bits and pieces.


We saw the Wind Palace before heading off to LMB’s famous (air-con) restaurant, where we settled down to a fabulous lunch . Dad with Rajasthani thali (set meal) and me with Punjabi thali. That put paid to Dad’s energy and we had to catch an auto rickshaw back to the Haveli. Of course he tried to over charge me, resulting in a big argument. “So my father has experienced everything in his first few hours,” I thought.


Whilst Dad was sleeping I tried to sort out his bags. Etihad would have no of it and refused to check in the bags early (even though Dad was flying business class). They even put the phone down on me! This dilemma dragged on and on and in the end it was time for dinner. The Singh’s food was yet again terrific and we got ready to leave the following morning.


I had organised a car to take us down to Ranthambhore and my friend there, Gudu organised that efficiently. It turned up on time and off we went. Dad was incredibly impressed with the Khatu Haveli which was great as I had been keen to stay with him in one heritage accommodation set up, preferably with the family owners .


En route we stopped at the Amber Fort just outside of Jaipur. This fort, which contains the astonishing Mirrored Palace. This would be a good way of introducing Dad on his whirl wind tour of India to some of the architectural treats he would see. Luckily it was not too hot as we pulled up in the people carrier. I had declined the elephant ride to the top of the fort. After Dad’s experience on horseback in Peru when he was cut several times and we ended up visiting hospitals for regular stitching - I was taking no chances this time.


The driver found us a guide and we approached up through the surrounding village and the back entrance (the elephants use the front). This was my second visit to the fort, but my first with a guide and this certainly made the visit much more interesting. We entered and headed straight for the Mirrored Palace to beat the tour groups . Seeing the palace at this time was great (but not as special as first thing in the morning in the Amber light). Dad certainly enjoyed it and got a great explanation to boot. We then looked at the views and the other rooms.


After a 90 min visit, we were back in the car and the guide suggested a visit to a tailor. Dad had wanted to go and I thought why not, even though I knew the guide would get a sizeable cut. However, whilst the shop/outlet was interesting, the prices were astronomical. USD 70 for a linen shirt was taking the mickey and USD 130 for a Modi Waistcoat (which is sleeveless) was bordering on daylight robbery. We left as soon as these prices were quoted. The guide and the shop owner seemed surprised. “You are meant to bargain,” one said and I was reminded of a Monty Python Life of Brain sketch. “You are meant to Haggle!”. I also realised as we left that “this had been a bad idea.”


The journey to Ranthambhore was relatively uneventful . Dad (rather bravely I thought) sat in the front seat - this can be quite an experience if you have never been by road in India. He did though fall asleep so missed most of the action. The driver was excellent and very competent and we took the smaller roads through agricultural communities and small villages. Snaking through the cattle, avoiding traffic on the wrong side of the road and using the horn incessantly is par for the course. It was certainly nice for me to experience a nice car and not a squashed sumo or a (God forbid) a Gujarati night bus.


Three hours later we rolled into Ranthambhore, where we briefly stopped at the Jungle Lodge in town so Dad could meet Gul, before we progressed down to the Jungle View Resort. Here we were welcomed by Gudu and his staff and were quickly allocated one of his luxury tents. This would be my third visit to Ranthambhore but this one was instigated by my father, who having seen some of my pics from January decided that he wanted to see a tiger. Having twice stayed in the Jungle Lodge, Gudu’s budget accommodation in town, I felt a more premium abode was required now I had my father in tow. When Gudu suggested his Jungle View Resort, I was concerned that Dad may find the temperature in a tent, too much. Guide assured me that they had air conditioning, which I have to say left me somewhat skeptical. I need not have worried. The free standing air conditioning machines were first class and in no time my father’s tent temperature had descended to a temperature more associated with the Arctic (his preferred temperature) rather than springtime Rajasthan.


Gudu’s Jungle View Resort was indeed comfortable. Located near the main park entrance it was well away from the dust, noise and pollution of central Sawai Madhopur (the town where Ranthambhore National Park is located). Tt was a haven of peaceful and tranquil with birds in the trees, monkeys in the bamboo and butterflies everywhere. Gudu also told me that leopards and occasionally tigers were known to visit after dark! Each tent was en suit with a comfortable double bed and a little porch. I immediately felt at home and started organising the safaris with Gudu.


All in all we managed seven safaris over the next seven days. It was certainly nowhere near as hot as I was expecting, most of time hovering around the 30C mark a full 10 degrees lower than it should have been. A couple of days before we had arrived there had been plenty of rain, turning the jungle areas green and filling the lakes. There was more water now in the park than the amount I remembered in January, but luckily - no snow like the hills of Jaipur had experienced in March. Global Warming again.


The big downside of these temperatures and the excessive water was that this would greatly reduce the chances of seeing a tiger. However on the first safari, within 40 minutes of entering the park, Dad was gazing at three. A mum and two cubs. We got a great view for almost 15 minutes. We nearly followed that up with a glimpse of a Sloth Bear but the gypsy vehicles in front blocked our way and we missed it when we finally caught up with the leading vehicle. We did manage some fighting antelope though and several good sightings of vultures. The following safari also delivered, this time the same three animals. However, this time we were prevented from a great viewing by the arrival of several VIP vehicles. I call then WAG vehicles. They are vehicles carrying government officials or wives and girlfriends who don't respect the laws of the national parks. The public gypsies (such as our own) have to move off the road and wait so as not drive or hinder these vehicles within the park. This is frustrating when you know you are en route to see a tiger. If it was Prime Minister Modi visiting, then I could understand but these are generally WAGs of the corrupt elite. This adds insult to injury. Nevertheless, we were with a great guide (friend of Gudu’s) who did his best and we ended up with two distant views of the cubs and one sensationally close view of mum in a gully no more than three meters away.


After six sightings in the first two safaris I was not sure how the next day would pan out, but sure enough, after twenty minutes we were again watching the first two cubs again in the forest. They were awaiting their mother’s return from hunting. Something we did not eventually see. However after several hours, we noticed a large Blue Bull antelope walking right towards the cubs area where they were resting. Remarkably the Blue Bull failed to notice the tigers until he was right amongst them. “These cubs are too young to do anything” whispered the guide but on seeing the prey, one cub was up and stalking. It did not take long for the Blue Bull to realise what danger he was in and he turned and ran. The tiger cub gave a half hearted chase, but it was all exhilarating. We also saw some spotted deer fighting with hay on their heads - laughable but true.


That afternoon trip was our first barren visit. After eight sightings in three safaris one cannot expect miracles. Any way it was nice to show Dad the famous Zone 3 where I had experienced that extraordinary sight of the tiger family in January. We did not see anything much, but Zone three is beautiful.


The following day was Zone 5, and yet again not a sniff of a tiger. I was hearing that most people were waiting at Zone 3, but there was nothing there either. Nevertheless I was happy to do as Gudu and Ghul recommend. They are responsible for all my sightings and my extraordinary sighting ratio of safaris to sightings of 1:1 Dad and I did spot several owls and a male peacock displaying his feathers for a rather stunned looking female.


With heat building Dad decided on resting that afternoon. The following morning we were in Zone 4 and after an express ride around the far perimeter of the zone we spotted a single tigress in the bushes. Not a great sighting, but a sighting nevertheless. In the afternoon we were not so lucky and the other tourists in the Gypsy we suitably jealous as one couple had seen nothing in three safaris and the other nothing in six.


All the while returning to the Safari Resort was like returning to a cool tranquil oasis. The food was outstanding and service great. We sneaked out to visit Gul twice and once Gudu took us to his tailor, so Dad could get his Modi Jacket and Linen shirts made - for a reasonable price. I even managed to sort out Dad’s bags which involved sending them (strangely) back to Jaipur. Gudu even managed this for a ridiculously small amount of money. Taxi drivers in Phom district in Nagaland please take note!


In the end it was a great memorable stay and a shame to leave. In the last two years I have been here twice, seeing many tigers (25 sightings in just 25 safaris) and making great friends. I look forward to returning one day. Next stop Agra.