The train trip from Sawai Madhopur was less eventful than it should have been. I was worried by the prospect of hauling my father’s 40+ kilos around together with my backpack . These thoughts were hardly filling me with enthusiasm. Consequently, it was a huge relief when Gudu told me that he had sorted out the problem. Gul came to the station and kindly made sure we got on the right train.


Overall Dad was impressed with the train journey and we arrived in Bharatphur in no time, to be met by the new driver, another Mr Singh . There were two parts of Dad’s trip I was not able to plan myself and I had to ask Emma Horne of Emma Horne Travels to kindly sort these out for me. The first was this part of the trip from Bharatphur to Kolkata and the second was the remainder of Dad’s visit after I left India in Kolkata.


Unfortunately we arrived in Bharatphur in the wrong season for the birds so Mr Singh drove us straight to Fatephur Sikri. I was here in 2013 and thought Dad would find this place as interesting as I had, so we stopped en route to Agra. Here we collected Sanjay who Emma had organised to be our guide for the next two days. Knowledgeable, friendly and helpful, both he and Mr Singh were great and we embarked on a trip around the palace. The heat was now back towards the seasonal average and Dad coped very well. I was hoping that the Amber Fort and Fatephur Sikri would provide my father with a good background for the visit to Agra. He certainly enjoyed it .


Back in the car we arrived in Agra in early afternoon and booked into the Taj Resort there, just next to the entrance to the Taj itself. Tired after our safari exertions, we went straight to our rooms unpacked and contemplating a nap. For me this did not work out. With staff hanging around, as I got to the room, a drill started on the opposite side of the wall. A telephoned complaint was not acted on after thirty minutes so I lost my temper (seeing I had only 60 mins for a nap). The staff had placed me in this room, knowing the work was being carried out. I was furious and when the senior of member of staff denied this saying “I had no knowledge of this work” I knew he was lying. They then gave me a key to move rooms whilst all the staff downstairs just watched me (arms folded) move from room to room, even when I asked for assistance.


Within five minutes I was sitting in front of Mr Dey, the hotel manager . I told him what had happened, said I usually pay much less than I am here and have never been treated so poorly, lied too and talked to so condescendingly in any guesthouse in India. “I am glad this did not happen to my father!”  Mr Dey listened, apologised and said he would correct the problem. Well within five minutes everything had changed. The staff attitude, the service and the atmosphere. I was happy with everything else during the rest of our stay. Mr Dey even had the kitchen produce a Bengali dish for my father to try, at no charge.


My father slept through this exchange and emerged from his room refreshed. It was now cooling down to 35c and it was time to see the Taj. It was though Friday and it was closed on this, the muslim holy day. However at the back of the Taj, across the river is a great park that offers good views for the sunset. Mr Singh drove us there. It was populated by many more tourists than I could remember seeing two years before, but still the views were excellent . Sanjay explained that it was here, in this park that the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan who had commissioned the Taj was planning to build a Black Taj as his own mausoleum. He was prevented by when he was deposed by his own son Aurangzeb. Many people believe this story is indeed a myth, but its great fun trying to imagine what a Black Taj would have looked like - especially considering the work of art on the opposite bank.


Whilst we were waiting for the sun to dip, a local professional photographer emerged with a troop of Indian guards in traditional dress on horseback. This presented a great opportunity for some photography. Unfortunately the sunset never resulted in much colour. Too much pollution and dust for that.


The next day we were up at 5.30am for the dawn viewing of the Taj. This being the start of the low season in Agra, there were not nearly so many tourists as during my last visit, which was great. Certainly the locals don't arrive at the site until well after 9.00am. The Taj is one of those famous sites in the world which does not disappoint. Time and time again I could visit. It always looks different and is incredibly impressive even if you are swamped by the hordes. This time it was just stunningly beautiful again. Unfortunately there was no water in the ornamental areas leading up to the structure - so Dad had to imagine that reflection . But everything else including a great soft light was perfect in these early morning hours. Sanjay took us round, again this was my first time with a guide and what a difference that made. Much of what I had seen the first time, now made sense. All in all spectacular day.


With this visit completed we ventured off to the Baby Taj or the Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah, another favourite place from my last visit before Dad and Sanjay visited the Agra Fort. By the end the sun was high and the temperature was close to 40c so we took a break. In the late afternoon we visited a marble carving factory (not so interesting for me), a leather factory (a little more interesting) and an truly impressive carpet cooperative selling Kashmir and Silk Carpets (fascinating). I was particularly fond of those using traditional Mogul designs. Dad was also rather taken.


Back at the hotel we enjoyed our final night. Dad with his Bengali food and me with some good traditional UP cuisine on the balcony overlooking the Taj. We said goodbye to Sanjay and the next morning we had a leisurely trip (it was Sunday) to Delhi airport and caught our flight to Kolkata. Mr Singh had also been great and I was hoping Dad might get to use him on his return.


Kolkata was much cooler than the 43c we experienced at Delhi airport. However the humidity was another thing all together. We caught a local taxi into town and checked in at the Central B&B near Park Street. This turned out to be one of the best places I have stayed in whilst visiting Kolkata. The location was excellent, the rooms very clean and huge with big fans, ac, big bathrooms and a comfortable bed. The communal ares were also comfortable and friendly, the kitchen was communal, but it was the family themselves who were just so nice. We quickly went out to “Oh Calcutta” one of Kolkata’s most famous restaurants serving a more modern style of Bengali food on the top floor of the Forum Shopping centre.


It was laid out very much like a top European restaurant, but for first timers like Dad and me, the menu was somewhat baffling. Unfortunately the staff (apart from the youngest) seemed hardly inclined to explain the menu or recommend anything. Nevertheless, we struggled on and after huge deliberations, we both had a great meal. It was during the meal that I started to feel feverish.


That night I had a searing temperature. In the morning I was incapacitated. I was under a blanket, with no fan or ac in 38C - shivering. Dad took the opportunity of a slow morning but it soon became apparent that I had to quickly recover or otherwise our proposed trip to the Sundarbans would be in jeopardy.


Reluctantly I started cancelling the four excursions I had planned over the next 48 hours. Fortunately Dad was able to attend, but the two photographic safaris with Manjit were first to go. These included the flower market and the clay Hindu statues that were sculpted for the big Autumn Hindu Festival. I had been out with Manjit in 2013 and was very disappointed to miss these excursions. Also cancelled (as far as my participation was concerned) was the guided food safari tasting the local Bengali street food and a visit to see Heka’s friend Nuli whom I had met at the Hornbill in December.


The next two days were spent in bed as my temperature slowly reverted to normal. All I could do was listen to my father’s tales of what he had seen and done in Kolkata (my favourite Indian city). The host family meanwhile were amazing fetching me anything I wanted.