The Inconclusive Conclusion (Malaysia)

Saturday, March 01, 2014
Malacca City, Melaka State, Malaysia
Like a square peg in a round hole or ugly beauty. LIke funny pain or clean dirt. I just don't get it . . . This country of Malaysia!

The skyscrapers reach to new heights here, described by adjectives like highest, most modern, or best designed . They create a new skyline for the cities. Surrounding their bases are small, historic, run-down buildings occupied by businesses or homes. 

The well maintained streets, highways and interstates are filled, not with small motorbikes, but with cars and trucks of all sizes. In many countries in Asia only the 'rich' have autos. Most of the population are fortunate if they can afford a small motorbike. Here there are few motorbikes. 

The commuter trains run on rails above the city, right below are the many busses. Some of the busses are long distance busses and many are local, even free to ride busses. Yet, within sight of all this modern public transportation system there must be 20 or 30 men sleeping on flattened pasteboard boxes. They are not old men, mostly I would guess they are men between 20's to 40's. They are there every night around 8 or 9 P.M. The street traffic and pedestrians are walking all around them in the busy streets of Chinatown .

There are beggars on the streets here, but they do not come asking for money while you sit eating. There are no small children begging for food or money or sleeping on the sidewalks. The beggars here sit on the sidewalks patiently waiting for someone to drop something into their cup or basket. Men and women of obvious means walk nearby.

 I haven't figured out the socioeconomics (the study of the relation between economics and social behavior) of this country yet.The country appears to be more advanced than other Asian countries I have visited so far, except for Japan. But, except for one Malaysian I have met, none have the friendliness of other, poorer countries I have been to. Is there a connection between degree of wealth and friendliness? 

In spite of the obvious better economic conditions here, next to the prosperity there is obvious poverty. Look through the lattice work separating the beautiful river walkway and you will see old houses with tin nailed here and there to keep out the weather . Windows half gone and stagnant pools of water surround the property that people are living in. Skyscrapers and barely inhabitable homes stand next to each other all over town.

I met Foong, a Malaysian Chinese. He will graduate from the university in one year. I asked him what the job prospects were for college graduates in Malaysia. He said they were good. He felt he would find a job with decent pay after graduation. In both Vietnam and Cambodia, the students I have talked with there that will graduate this year, feel just the opposite. They don't expect to find a job in their field of study in their countries. They say it is because of political corruption. Only the wealthy, with thousands of dollars in bribe money, will get the jobs. The graduating students will most likely be unemployed or working driving tuk tuks or selling food on the side of the streets. But, that does not seem to be the case here in Malaysia.

I met Foong through an offer he had to show foreigners around the city . I met others in Vietnam doing the same thing. There is no money involved. They are usually college students, near graduation, hoping to improve their English and learn about other countries from foreign travelers.

Foong met me at the Central Market, built in 1888. He took two trains and a bus to get here to meet me. It was an hour long trip from where he shares a room with other students.

Foong turned out to be the one bright spot of my interaction with the Malaysian people so far. In most of the other countries I have been to, I have met and spent time with locals. They usually speak to me first. But, in Malaysia, no one has attempted to speak or even make eye contract.

Foong is very open and friendly, though. We eat and talk and spend the evening together. As I do with locals, we discussed politics of our countries. He says the party in power in Malaysia has been in power for 50 years . They do hold elections, but, he says, they are corrupt and the ruling party has it rigged so they will always win.

Then I asked him about the people. There are three main races of Malaysians. The Malays (Muslims), India (Hindus), and Chinese (Buddhists). There are many other minor groups also. Even though they are all Malaysian citizens, the races each have their own religions, which have their own culture. The government mandates integration in schools, etc., but he says there is still a lot of division among the groups.

The reason I mention the different races is because of the seemingly odd behavior of the locals in this country. At least to me it seems odd. Tourism is not the biggest income in the country, but it is one of the largest.

Yet, I find it odd that it is even difficult to get served food on the streets here. Many times I have gone to a street seller and sat in one of the plastic chairs and waited for someone to ask if I wanted something from the menu . When no one came, I would go stand by the cart where the food was prepared. The seller would usually ignore the fact I was standing there. Often they would turn away and piddle at doing something. Sometimes, even when I would say something, they would ignore it. Many times I have just finally walked away without getting anything to eat.

In the instances where I do finally get something to eat, the food is dropped on the small table without a word. When it is time to pay, I go ask and pay up. No smiles, or thank-you or come-again!

Now that Foong has told me how the society is divided by so many races and cultures, I wonder if my being an Anglo-American, speaking English is just another race the seller is not in the mood to deal with?

I have been to 3 cities so far in Malaysia. All big cities, so far. Even in the guesthouses where I stay, there is not the openness I experience in other countries . The place where I stay now is for foreigners, mostly backpackers, but the owners are Malaysians. If I try to ask a question, like how to get somewhere, I often get a mumbled answer. Other places I have stayed in other countries, part of the business is to help travelers find their way around the city. Here, when the answer cannot be understood and I ask again, often the staff just turns away and mumbles more. I find the whole attitude strange.

People have different views of places they visit, though. A woman I met in Malaca said she loved Malaysia but didn't like Indonesia at all. A friend of mine that has been traveling for a few years, and is still traveling, told me Indonesia was one of his favorite places.

Another backpacker told me he would never go to Vietnam again, and gave many reasons why. I went to Vietnam and had a great time and plan to return. So, different opinions from different people. 

Still, Malaysia is a mystery to me . I could just hop on a plane and head for one of the countries I have already been to and enjoyed, or go to a new country. 

I miss the "hellos" and smiles from the Cambodians, young and old. It would be good to spend some time sight-seeing or just chatting for a while with some of the Vietnamese, so eager to improve their status in life and learn about the U.S.
 
But, I am not ready for that. There are still places in Malaysia I want to see. If I left Malaysia now, It would be like leaving a table with a lot of new foods you never tried. You might always wonder what you missed. So, I will continue traveling Malaysia until I get tired of it, or have seen what I came to see.

I walked around the city of Malaca, taking photos of the river art painted on building walls all around the city. I saw a woman, with no arms, drawing and smiling.

There are so many new foods to taste here. I try new ones every chance I get. I have found some delicious street food this way!

I stopped by KL again, to prepare for my travel into the northern part of Mayalsia. This is where I met Foong. Tomorrow I leave Kuala Lumpur and journey to a small town/ village for some outdoor activities and nature!

So, this is my inconclusive conclusion of Malaysia...... to be updated!
 
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