The last few days in the old city of Bethlehem were spent visiting the Biblical city where angels had proclaimed  " . . .on earth peace, good will toward men." But, here, just a short walk away, I am standing looking at an imposing symbol of fear and desperation.

So far I have spent my time in the old city of Bethlehem and the suburbs to the east to see the Shepherd's fields. Today I walk in the opposite direction to the north side, away from the old part of the city. I pass some modern buildings with wider streets.

The atmosphere in Bethlehem does not seem as highly volatile as in Jerusalem. Bethlehem is a Muslim town and Israeli's are forbidden here. Maybe that is why? Oddly enough, the very means of accomplishing this is the thing that causes the most conflict between the people.

The strife between the Israeli's and Palestinians is over the land. Both claim they have historical and religious rights to it. The fight is over the West Bank, Gaza Strip and East Jerusalem.

Jews that settled in the West Bank (before Israel turned it back to the Palestinian Authority in 1997) are considered settlers by Israel, but occupiers by Palestine .

According to Israel, "From September 2000 to mid-2005, hundreds of Palestinian suicide bombings and terrorist attacks against Israeli civilians killed nearly 1,000 innocent people and wounded thousands of others."

The Israeli governments solution was to build a wall between Israel and the West Bank. They call it a "Peace Barrier" or "Security Barrier".

The Palestinians call it a "Separation Wall". They argue it has divided cities and split families, with some left on each side of the wall, and requiring visas and permits to visit relatives just a few feet away. 

They also say the wall cuts deep into the Palestinian territories and gives Israel control over important Palestinian economic areas, agricultural grounds and natural resources, like water.

Most of the wall is made of wire fence, but in Bethlehem it's a cement wall, 24 feet tall, with watchtowers every few feet .

I walked around a lot of the wall on the Palestinian side (Bethlehem). The wall is covered with messages and graffiti, many of which are dedicated to the political situation between Israel and Palestine (from the Palestinian point of view, of course).

I found that traveling around Israel was complicated by the wall that runs the length of the West Bank. Many religious sites that were once very popular with tourist are now too difficult to reach because of the wall. Several I could not get to. I can understand the problems it creates for both Israelis and Palestinians living here every day!

I read and hear people referring to Israel as land-grabbing, gun toting bullies or the Palestinians as fanatical suicide bombers. But, the majority of the people on either side are not the extremist causing the problems. Most are just ordinary people that want safety and peace.

When I leave Bethlehem (back to Jerusalem), the bus stops at the checkpoint. All the Palestinians get off the bus and line up to have their documents checked by the Israeli soldiers.

Those of us with foreign passports stay on the bus. An armed soldier comes on the bus and looks at each passport. Security is a no-nonsense business here, and they show it! 

NEXT: "THE ANNOUNCEMENT IN NAZARETH!"