The Hills Above Petra (Jordan)

Saturday, August 27, 2016
Wadi Musa, Jordan
The iconic Treasury building (Part 2) is only one of two captivating monuments in Petra. The other one, and just as impressive, is the Monastery! You'll only see it if you leave the valley and hike up the daunting trail leading to the mountain top.
 
The photo of The Treasury is what I had seen when researching Petra . Without thinking too much about it, I just assumed I would enter Petra, see this one rock building and that would be all there was to see. That is the way most "must-see sights" turn out to be.
 
But Petra turned out to be so much more than just The Treasury. Spread out over miles inside this city are the remains of this once vibrant city, hidden in the red cliffs and valleys!
 
The beauty of Petra grabs you as soon as you enter the Siq. No other place I have seen compares with it! Sandstone walls rise far above everywhere you go and they spread for miles across the mountains.
 
Inside this amazing historic city are 23 major monuments of interest. In part one of this report I took you through the Bab as-Siq, then through the Siq. Part 2 was from The Treasury through the Outer Siq, down the Street of Facades to the great 7,000 seat amphitheater.

 Even though this is a 3 part entry, I only spent 2 days exploring Petra. The first day I went as far as the Great Temple. Stopping to explore tombs, caves, and Roman ruins along the way .

 The second day I had to hike all that same distance, but did not need to make the stops to see the things I saw the 1st day. Instead, I hiked up side trails into the mountains to discover more things. I love the views of the Petra valley below from the mountain trails above.

I hiked the trails to see the Royal Tombs up close and looked inside caves where the people lived.
 
Besides the fun of discovering the different trails, I got an up-close look at the Royal Tombs and other caves that I had seen on my first day from the street below!

 By early afternoon I finished my hiking and returned to the Great Temple ruins. Actually, when you get to the Great Temple, it looks like the end of your walk through Petra. But, if you cross the small bridg, a little ways past the Great Temple, you will find the trail leading uphill to the Monastery. 
 
The trail is not well marked and is loose sand . I hope it is not like this all the way. It is difficult walking. I got off route and took a detour by mistake. It was not hard to circle back to find the trail, though. But, on the detour, I met a friendly local that ended up hiking all the way up with me! You will see his photo later!
 
From here the path becomes rock. The tiring hike to the Monastery is well worth the effort. High in the mountains, you have to climb 850 meandering rock steps through the hills to reach it. It sometimes circles around trees or outcroppings. Sometimes it is not steps at all, but just an incline.
 
There are caves and side trails that lead off into the mountains for more exploring. The climb along the switchback trail is a lot of fun. The views are different from any other hike I can remember!
 
As I climb higher into the mountain, occasionally I see a tent tarp stretched out where a local sells drinks or trinkets. Most of the places do not have anyone tending them today, for some reason.

The Monastery may be the most impressive building here . The Treasury gets more attention, maybe because it is seen by more tourists. It is located just inside the Siq and does not require the long hike up a mountain, like the Monastery does. The Treasury is definitely a sight to see, and lives up to it's fame. But, the Monastery is majestic! 
 
I think many people never make it to the Monastery because of the difficult climb. But, if you visit Petra, you WILL do a lot of walking, even if you don't do this climb. I think people that do not make it to the Monastery have missed one of the most impressive sights here! 

The Monastery is actually larger than The Treasury! It dates back to the 1st century B.C.! It is the largest building in Petra, standing 180 feet tall. Once you reach the top and see the Monastery, you will also get amazing panoramic views of the valleys and hills in the Petra basin.

I reach the Monastery with only one or two wrong turns. The trail is not marked but is not difficult to follow .
 
The name Monastery gave me a wrong idea of it's use. It is cut into the rock and was made to serve as a mortuary temple. Later it began to be used as a Christian facility. There are crosses chiseled and painted on the inside walls. That is thought to be why it came to be referred to as the Monastery! 
 
To get back down the mountain there is only one trail. The same one I took up.
 
As I start down I am joined by another hiking partner. This time a donkey. His owner was with him at first but soon the man allowed the donkey to go on his own down the steep trail. He passes me and I do not try to keep up!
 
You can get one of the donkeys to take you up the steep rocky trail if you cannot, or do not want to hike up! The trail down is very steep and I enjoyed watching how sure-footed the donkey was going down!
 
There are still people living in the caves in Petra! They are local Bedouins! They are believed to be the descendants of the original nomadic Arabs that built Petra! I spent a night with a Bedouin in his camp. But, that is for another blog entry!
 
The Bedouins are the only people that live and work in Petra . They are the people you see offering you camel and donkey rides or selling souvenirs or refreshments. All electric power they have has to come from a generator.
 
I met several of these Bedouins on the way down from the Monastery. Some were just sitting on the rocks or leaning back in the shade. A few called to me, inviting me to stop and drink tea with them.
 
I have been the target of attempted scams in many countries from people that invited me to have coffee or drink with them. So, I am not sure what these offers of tea are about. Do they want to sell me something or do they have a scam to work on the foreigner?

I say "No Thank You" and do not accept any of their offers (something I reget later). "Welcome to Petra" they say, as I pass by their lean-to shelter.

 
Later I learn they were genuine offers to enjoy tea with a local Bedouin! I think it would have been a nice experience to enjoy tea from the fire-burnt pot sitting over open flames, fueled by small twigs, looking out over the enormous valleys below!

Petra was annexed by the Roman Empire in 106 A .D. and began it's decline soon after because the Romans started changing the caravan's trade routes away from Petra. Some major earthquakes in following centuries put the city into decline and it was abandoned in the 13th century and forgotten by the world.

 In 1812, a young Swiss explorer disguised himself as an Arab and persuaded a local guide to take him to Petra.
 
Today Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and called "The 7th Wonder of the New World".


NEXT: "Camping with the Bedouins!"

Other Entries

Comments

2025-05-22

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank