We set off at about 9 for Assisi. However the GPS stopped working just after we had bought diesel. We had a map (thanks to Jane) so used that but keep stopping in case that helped the GPS. It was a steady climb with a lot of tunnels as we headed east.. When we stopped to look more closely at the GPS, John spotted a small reset button and I realised there was a pin in a hat so we were able to get the GPS going again.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

We parked in a building and walked first to the Basilica . There were audio guides available for a donation but we decided to just wander. We had the correct clothes to get in – I had a blouse over my singlet top and a skirt although I think my long shorts would have been OK and John had taken off his cap. We found the tour days very informative but today we wanted to just look.

The wall frescos are more restored than the last visit but the basilica is still relatively plain. There was more stained glass than I remembered. We also went to the area with the relics and saw St Francis's robe, slippers, an ivory horn from a visit to Damascus, a chalice and relics from his tomb which was found in 1818.

We exited from the upper basilica and the heat then hit us. The sun reflects off the white buildings and was very hot. We stopped for a snack then went for a walk, heading in the direction we needed for a cache but really also keeping in the shade. GPS reception was poor and we never got close to GZ . We went into one other church then decided it was too hot. We had lunch in a trattoria until the heat there drove us back to the car. I hope the church gets something from the parking for renovations as it was 5 euro for a bit over 3 hours.

We set off for Gubbio, another town in Umbria that we had been advised to visit. There are sites in the Gubbio area that date to the Bronze era and there are tablets from the 3rd century BC that refer to the city. We stopped on the way for John to have a brief snooze. It was over 30 degrees although the aircon kept the car cooler.

We found Gubbio nicer than Assisi in many ways as it was less white so less glary, much less crowded and there was a bit of breeze. We had a map from the information centre but again just wandered around. As well as the various historic buildings that lined the streets we saw the remains of the Roman Olympic theatre, a number of churches, and the cable car that goes to the Basilica at the top of a hill behind the town, although it was not running . While we were at the cable car site a local explained it was closed but also told us how we could drive to the top. We also found a friendly local who served us when we bought pasta and wine in a local store.

There were more places in the town we could have visited but, although it was cooler here it was still hot and John was ready to move on to a cooler place. We nearly came to blows when driving to the Basilica. The Tom Tom did not recognise this as a Point of Interest so we were trying to rely on the map. I thought John was saying that this was the way we had been and hence wrong but he just meant we had not gone far enough. I suggested we try one circuit out which was wrong. In the end we stopped, took deep breaths, returned to the front of the city and followed road signs.

The Basilica was worth the drive. It was cooler at the top and there was shade to park in. It is to a local saint, St Ubaldo. He was from a wealthy family in Gubbio and became a monk, giving much of his wealth to the poor. He later became Bishop of Gubbio in the 12th century and was canonized in 1192. His body was placed at the top of this hill and the Basilica later built around it.

The Basilica itself was a cool spot. It had a central open courtyard but the darker stone and the smaller size made this a much more comfortable spot than at St Francisians in Assisi . There was a museum but all signs were in Italian and it was not easy to follow. The church was lovely. It has a marble altar and stained glass showing the life of St Ubaldo. The frescos on the wall have faded and not been restored.

Jane and Ian told us about an annual celebration here and I also found information on the internet. It is the Race of the 'Ceri' (Candles) on May 15.

It probably dates to the 12th century when Ubaldo was Bishop and celebrates an important victory. The 3 candles consist of an octagonal wooden construction, up to 7 metres high and topped by the three saints, Ublano (protector of masons), Giorgio (protector of merchants) and Anthony (protector of farm workers). The men who support the candles wear bright, traditional costumes. The candles are housed in the Basilica all year and are taken down on the first Sunday in July.

On the morning of July 15, the candles are paraded through the town . At midday the bell rings and the Candles are raised. Water is poured from a jug on the candles, the jug is thrown in the air and people scramble for the broken pieces as they are considered lucky. Then the candles are paraded through the town again. At 6pm the candles are blessed then are raised onto the shoulders of the carriers, and they race through the town and up the hill to the Basilica. The winners are not the first to arrive because that has to be St Ubaldo, but established on the basis of the skill shown by the bearers.

Jane and Ian told us that being in the town during the race is scary but also amazing. The bearers run with all this weight on their shoulders. The streets are full of spectators then somehow there has to be room for the bearers to run through so everyone pushes back. They managed to stand on a ledge at the side of the road so they were high enough to see but out of the way. Most of the streets in Gubbio were wider than we have usually found in the area so it is amazing to think of them full .

The town is also known for having the biggest Christmas tree in the World. Lights make the shape on the hill to the Basilica from December 7 until January 10 every year.

When we returned Jane and Ian were about to go to Cupramontana for a pre dinner drink. John had just made a cuppa and was ready for a snooze so just I went with them. We sorted out a hair appointment and got stamps as well. When we were given our drinks we also were given plates of snacks. There was a bowl of peanuts, a plate with toppings on bread and a bowl with garlic, beans, olives and more. Then we were each given a small pasta salad. Jane and Ian said if we had another round of drinks there would be more food. No wonder this is their favorite bar. If you eat all the food you are given here they just bring more. The trick is to leave a little when you have finished.

At 8pm they took us with them to the lake for tea – but the restaurant was closed so we ended up with a nice tour and tea in Cupramontana. This worked out well because the football was on a big TV outside. After our meal a complimentary nutella pizza was served. It had the nutella inside. The pizza has a coating of flour before the last ‘fold’ so it cooks with a space inside. The nutella is added and it is put into the oven before serving. It was OK but not one I would want again. However, Jane is well known to the owners so she gets one as a treat. The other couple staying at her bnb were in the restaurant so she was able to give them the last slices.

We were back home at 11pm.