We drove back down the middle of Scotland, stopping for a stretch at the top of the pass that also is the end of the Highlands. It is the high point on the road, at 460m where not only the road passes through but also the Highland Main Train Line, the railway between Inverness and the south of Scotland and the National Cycle Route 7 between Glasgow and Inverness. We only saw cars but we did see the train tracks as we had a short stroll for a stretch.
We stopped near Perth to visit the Palace of Scone
. I had not realised this is in private hands although I did know a bit about the history. The first part of the visit was more to do with the private part of the house. There was a collection of ivories, a table set in a way similar to the time of the Visit of Queen Victoria with Edinburgh crystal and Worchester hand painted china, silk brocade wall coverings that were once bright blue but are now very faded (I preferred the faded colour) and the library had the books removed and replaced with a collection of porcelain, mainly European. I didn't think Jennifer would approve.
There was a lot of the very intricate marquetry work that still amazes us with its craftsmanship. One piece was a writing desk that had been given to a previous Earl by Marie Antoinette. There were a number of the 'what not’ holders as well – previous owners must have collected a lot of small items. There were a lot of family photos around including one of the existing Earl when he was at Eton and his grandson who is there now
. The clothes were the same, although the top hat was missing in the newer photo.
The main gallery is 45m long and includes an organ that one Earl gave to his wife. However the main items here were made of papier mache.. There were about 70 pieces under glass and they looked like pottery or marble. We chattered to the attendant in the room and she said no one ever guesses what they are made of. Even though we knew what it was made of, it was still hard to believe. They are the main part of a collection made for King Louis 15th of France by the Vernis Martin brothers. They have a special finish but the secret to this died with the brothers. I liked them as they were a nice simple shape with colouring in tones of brown.
There were a series of displays about the history of Scotland and the family links. Sir David Murray saved the life of James 6 of Scotland and was given the lands as a reward and they have stayed in the family since. The house was closer to the village of Scone but in 1805 the then Earl was tired of the village being so close so he razed the village and it was rebuilt a few mile away.
There were a number of displays about Scottish History and a video that was mainly about the Stone of Destiny. It had allegedly been Jacobs Pillow before it came to Scotland. For many years Scotland’s Kings were crowned here at the Stone and allegedly so many local dignities came from around Scotland and left the dirt from their boots that a mound was formed
. We saw the mound (Moot/Boot Hill) later and admit to doubting the whole of it came off boots.
In 1292 when Edward 1 invaded, the Stone was captured and taken to London. When Robert the Bruce won back Scotland and later was crowned King, it was at the church here. The stone remained in London (except for the few months after it was stolen by students) until it was returned to Scotland in 1996. However, it has been proved to not be as old as the story would have it. The question left unanswered is ‘was a fake given to Edward 1 and is the real stone still hidden somewhere’.
We saw the Moot Hill and the replica stone when we visited the church outside. In the house itself they had replicas of the "Honours of Scotland" to complete the link with the royal history.
We then went to Bannockburn to the visitors centre. It was very welcoming for children as it had a lot of activities for them as well as information for adults. I had to try on a replica helmet which was very heavy. They also had chain mail and it was even heavier. No wonder they rode Clydesdale type horses. It was emphasised how gory the battle would have been. There was no taking of prisoners unless they were nobles and there was a chance of ransom. Because the battle started early, not all nobles had their regalia on so they were just killed as they were not usually recognised without it
.
Robert had always wanted to go to Jerusalem so on his death his heart was cut out and taken there,at his request. Recently a body has been found with a missing heart and the right age so it is assumed it is his. The body shows signs of leprosy,
We then went to see the new statue that was opened by Queen Elizabeth for the 650th anniversary of the Bannockburn battle. The Scottish trust own land around the area and archeological exploration is still happening as it is still unclear exactly where the battle took place.
We then did a cache called the Tragedy of James 3. The plaque was on a sort of walking track that was being overtaken by new housing. We had heard a bit about him at Scone but read more here. James III was King of Scots from 1460 to 1488 and an unpopular and ineffective monarch. Matters came to a head in 1488 when he faced an army raised by the disaffected nobles,at the Battle of Sauchieburn and was defeated
. The tragedy of James is that he fled the battle after being wounded and escaped to a Millhouse near this spot. The miller's frantic wife ran out, shouting for a priest to administer last rites to the dying King. A small party of insurgents had been tracking the King, so dutifully answered the woman’s pleas for help. One of the men, avowing he was a priest, entered the miller’s house but instead of giving him last rites, the so-called priest stabbed the King several times.
After this we made our way to Dumfries. The room here was good and we also had wireless internet. We walked into the centre, took a few photos and then found the pub recommended for tea – it had been ‘pub of the year’ for the area for the past 5 years. However, it was also popular and we had to put our names down and return in 1 hour. So we walked back to the BnB then drove later to enjoy a very nice meal. The only problem now faced was being ‘attacked ‘ by a seagull who had a fledgling in the neighbouring property. Seagulls have joined with Magpies as being birds I don’t like.
Dawdling down to Dumfries
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Dumfries, Scotland, United Kingdom
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