Corinthian Travels in the Gulf of Corinth

The word "Corinthian" derives from the ancient inhabitants of Corinth who were renowned for their skills at Horseriding (Gina and I both enjoy that), Sailing ('nuff said) and Fighting (Gina has a mean right hook when necessary) . Thus our travels here could be truly termed Corinthian!

Itea.
We decided, on Wednesday, to head for Itea which is an iron ore mining town a short bus ride from ancient Delphi. The pilot guide to the area says that Itea is OK but everything gets covered in red dust from the mines.


We were therefore surprised to arrive in a very pleasant, clean wee town with a free marina and a bus station (well a tiny office around which buses seem to congregate from time to time) on the doorstep. It has many waterfront tavernas, a couple of supermarkets and. a cracking good internet café. It also had a good ladies hairdresser into which Gina disappeared. Initially she said in pidgin Greek and English that she wanted it cut very short. The owner lifted up her electric clippers and made a comment in Greek which had everyone in the shop laughing and Gina looking slightly worried. However she emerged an hour later smiling and looking good with about half a stone of hair removed .


After lunch we were sat in the cockpit of the boat when it felt like the entire corps of Greek hairdressers had turned up next to the boat and turned on the hairdryers. It was actually a hot wind of around force 6 from the South West. Just as we had settled a guy from a Brit boat cycled past and said "the buggers have turned on the hairdryers again I see". We discovered from him that this wind was very unusual but, for the past few days, had arrived daily at about 3.00 and lasted until evening, raising the temperature into the 40s and giving everyone an uncomfortable time.


On Thursday we spent the day re-supplying the boat and arranging our trip to Delphi on Friday. A local taxi driver told us that he could take us there and back for about €60.00 ands would give us 2 hours there. However the local bus was €6.00 return for the two of us . The rest of the day was spent trying to stay cool when the hairdryers came on again at 3.00.


Delphi
On Friday we caught the 7.00 bus to Delphi and enjoyed a stunning, steep journey through the hills to arrive at 8.00 when everything was just opening up.


Delphi is acknowledged as one of the most spectacular and beautiful classical sites in Greece but is also known to be generally heavily overcrowded.


It is undoubtedly beautiful and spectacular and, because we got there as it opened we had the place virtually to ourselves. The main coach parties were just turning up as we left.


The ancient Greeks regarded Delphi as the centre of the world. One can understand why when one sees its situation amidst the mountains, ravines and cliffs . As a result, perhaps of volcanic emanations (the Gods breaking wind perhaps?) the site became famous for it's oracle for predicting the future. The priests, apparently in a trance, gave the geological farting noises vague and often obscene interpretations which seemed to keep the people happy. On this basis the front bar of the Corner House tavern in Tarbert could solve Scotland's problems very easily.


As one ascends the site there are various pillars, temples etc hanging from the hillside then, at the top is a Roman athletics stadium which is fairly complete and could almost be used today. For a wee while we were the only people there and it became beautiful and almost mystical place.


The most picturesque part is a small structure at the bottom of the site called the Tholos. No-one knows what its purpose was but it is stunning . We were lucky enough to be the only people there when we saw it and it was undoubtedy a very spiritual site.


The museum was the best we have seen so far on our travels. It contained some incredible, beautiful and large sculptures and friezes from the site. It was also air conditioned which certainly added to the experience.


The modern town of Delphi is fairly small and is very touristy, aimed at the coach trade and selling everything from replica sculptures to obscene (albeit of a historical nature) postcards of the sex life of the Ancient Greeks. It also has a number of cafes spectacularly hanging off the side of the cliffs with views down to the Gulf of Corinth. We had a seriously average lunch served by bored staff who were disappointed that we weren't a coach party. Great view, shame about the staff.


On our return we were surprised that the hairdryers wind had been replaced by something pleasantly cool from the South East . We also met the local policeman who asked us to visit his office and show him our papers - how much was this going to cost us?


We sat in his office, showed him our papers and waited for him to ask us for port dues and he just stamped our papers and sent us on our way. Our stay in the marina had been legally free!


Andikiron.
Andikiron is the place where the iron ore from Itea is smelted. It barely gets a mention in the guides but apparently has electricity and water on the quay. We left Itea at 7.00 on Saturday morning and had a windless sail for 20 miles to Andirikon.


The quay here requires one to moor 'Mediterranean Style' which means dropping the anchor about 40 metres from the quayside then heading for the wall and tying up. We had never done this before so were rather pleased with ourselves when it worked out OK . It also helped that we were the only visiting yacht here.


The harbour here is very small but perfectly formed in an almost landlocked bay with hills all around it. On the day we arrived there were divers working their way through the harbour clearing all the rubbish from the sea bed, depositing it into fishing boats which took it to the quayside where it was put onto trucks and removed. This was a real community effort to clean up an already immaculate looking harbour. Clearly the people here take a real pride in their town.


We have really enjoyed it here. It is a perfect setting; the electricity and water is freely available; we discovered wireless internet here and an internet cafe ; the tavernas are plentiful, good and cheap and the people are very friendly. It is now almost the height of the sailing season - so why are we the only visiting yacht!!
Today, Tuesday, we are in Corinth to visit the Ancient City and then head through the canal into the Aegean Sea., probably on Thursday.