Corinth, Cockroaches and Canals

Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Methana, Greece
Corinth, Ancient Corinth and Acrocorinth
On Monday 2 .July we left the lovely Andikiron in, as usual, no wind and headed for the Yacht harbour at Corinth. The pilot guide describes it as very full with local boats. However, when we entered there were at least 6 spaces for visitors. On arrival we tied up and an ageing Dutch yottie, Robert, came over for a beer and to fill us in on where everything was in Corinth. He then hopped on his boat and disappeared in a generally Westerly direction.
 
Corinth had internet cafes, banks, tavernas to suite all pockets, and cockroaches. On Tuesday morning Gina returned to the boat after shopping and found a giant "mahogany mouse" (as roaches are called in the Carribean) wandering around the cockpit. Later I found another mini roach in the same place. Needless to say both were squished and hurled overboard. Naturally we then went out and bought every anti roach poison, trap, rifle, artillery etc known to mankind. Subsequently, after vast expense, thank goodness, no further signs.
 
The purpose of being in Corinth was to see ancient Corinth and Acrocorinth (ancient fortified town) about 12km from modern Corinth . The Rough Guide says that buses run there every hour. However, there are 3 different bus stations in Corinth and all of them hide the fact magnificently. Bus services in Greece are very efficient but you really have to be in the know to find one of the cunning wee bastards.
 
Eventually, on Wednesday, we discovered it's hiding place and, for the grand sum of €2.40 (£1.60) caught the comfortable, air conditioned bus to Ancient Corinth. The setting is magnificent with the mountainous Acrocorinth fort looming above it.
 
The site is well laid out and has been excavated in such a way that you can see everything from the wee shops to the ubiquitous Temple of Apollo just as it was laid out in Ancient times. It also has a good museum with some remarkable sculptures, mosaics etc. We got there early and had finished sightseeing before the multitude of coach parties appeared. We then had coffee and headed, by taxi €20.00), up the steep road to Acrocorinth. The driver deposited us and said he would pick us up in an hour and a half .
 
This was just enough time to explore this craggy fortress.. It is situated atop a craggy hill with spectacular and commanding views from the Aegean to the Gulf of Corinth and beyond. Strategically it was a very important fortress. Within its walls were a small township of which little evidence remains except for a few ruined buildings, a church and a mosque. The walls of the fort are steep with substantial drops on either side. We thoroughly enjoyed tramping around the hill. It reminded us of Scotland - except that it was dry and sunny!
 
Corinth Canal.
It had been our intention to leave Corinth on Wednesday but high winds kept us there till Saturday. Whilst waiting we had become friendly with French single hander and a remarkable German couple in their tiny22ft Westerly Cirrus. The three of us decided to form a convoy. At 7.00 I called the Canal Office on the VHF to say that we would be at the entrance at 8.30. We duly arrived and were told that we would have to wait a maximum of one hour. The entrance consists of a small sheltered area and a road bridge which lowers into the water to let ships enter the canal . This really pisses of motorists who may have to wait for up to half an hour for vessels to pass. We had to wait for two ships to pick up pilots and in one case accept a tow from a tug. After they had gone through we were told to follow them into the steep sided, 3 mile long, canal.
 
Inside the canal it hardly seems wide enough for a yacht let alone a freighter. The sides rise vertically 250ft with 3 or 4 bridges spanning the chasm.. Once inside the temperature drops because of the shade. It really was quite exciting and uplifting to navigate one's way through. Suddenly one arrives at the Eastern end and, as if a dor had been opened, a view of the whole of the Saronic Gulf, Aegean sea and the Islands opens up. Good 'ere 'innit!
 
After paying for our passage (a mind boggling €116.00) we pointed the boat towards the Aegean Sea.
 
Korfos
We had been recommended, by an American couple, to have a look at a small, slightly out of the way, village called Korfos, about 15 miles from the Corinth Canal. We trundled round there in almost windless conditions . En route we were passed by almost every small, medium and large powerboat in Athens with happy, wavy, smiley people on board. It proved to be an almost landlocked bay with a lot of tavernas and loads of happy,wavy, smiley people in powerboats. However, there was a small amount of space at a Taverna dock so, with the assistance of the Patron and a Brit named Dave we moored up. The mooring, showers and water being free provided we ate at the taverna.
 
After a walk around town and a lazy afternoon we sat down at the Taverna in the evening and watched as loads of Athens based yachts appeared. The Patron was having a great time stuffing 5 yachts into what appeared to be 1 space. He was also the only person taking orders. Service was not rapid! Every time a boat came into the bay he rushed to the waters edge, clapped his hands, whistled and beckoned them to his ever dimishing space. The rest of us yacht owners looked on in horror (and hunger). Eventually I went over to Tiercel, moored on the very end of the dock, and he roped me into helping him get yet another boat outside of us!
 
After dinner we went to bed and slept for about 11 hours solid. After another, lazier day we left on Monday for Methana.
 
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