Legendary Fishermen of Cesme
Whilst in Cesme we started to frequent the "No Problem Bar" and found ourselves in the company of the local small (but perfectly formed) Brit community . Two of the guys are very keen fishermen, both very modest and self effacing about their fishing skills. However, they have become the fishing legends of Cesme. Most mornings they head off down the beach or harbour with their fishing rods - generally at least 4 - canvas stools, beer chiller, primus stove, frying pan, sausages, bacon, eggs, baked beans, bread for frying and, most important of all, HP sauce. The local Turkish fishermen, who successfully use a simple line and a hook, look on in astonishment at the intrepid pair.
 
On arrival at their selected spot they put out their rods and lines, fire up the primus stove and cook a gargantuan fry up, the smell of which would immediately clog the arteries of lesser men. Rob was salivating at the mere description of it. In fact they felt so sorry for him that they gave him a pack of Lincolnshire sausages and a tin of baked beans - delicious.
 
Now to the fishing. Since teaming up in September 2007 our two heroes have, so far, despite their sophisticated kit and suicidal breakfasts,caught a sum total of 9 fish . Nonetheless they are held in awe by the local Turks (many of whom catch that many in a morning) who watch their every move. Only one of the fish that they have caught would make a good meal and, when they caught it, the local drums started to beat - within 5 minutes they were surrounded by 25 local Turks who immediately put out their lines and crowded the waters to such and extent that the 2 Brits couldn't find any space there. They say that they have not been able to get back there since. It is always stowed out with Turks thinking that the cunning Brits had pulled a fast one on them.
 
We learnt the secret of their success over a series of beers in the "No Problem". We have really enjoyed their company and have promised to return in order to take them fishing on Tiercel and add to the legend.
 
Bergama - Ancient Pergamon.
On Monday we looked at the weather forecast and saw that it was going to be windy until Thursday so decided to hire a car and head for Bergama and it's many and diverse ancient ruins . The drive took about 3 hours. On arrival we took ages to find parking, eventually fetching up outside the Gobi Pensyon. This was definitely a good move. It is a traditional Turkish guest house run by the most delightful family. The, en suite room and 2 gorgeous breakfasts (sadly no Brit fry ups but fresh fruit, newly baked bread, honey, boiled eggs, cheese filled spring rolls, a small sausage, cheeses, tomato, cucumber, Apricot conserve, and olives) cost a total of £18.00 for the night.
 
On Monday we legged it into the old quarter, saw the Red Basilica - a church which, in it's day would have been the size of a cathedral - it started life as an Egyptian cult temple in the 2nd century AD, and was converted into a magnificent Basilica with marble lined interior soon after. It is now in ruins, except for one tower which is used as a mosque, but gives a real sense of space & magnificence still. We then had a delicious pide lunch in a working men's café and tried to find the Asklepion (the first healing centre in Asia, copied from Hippocrates Asklepion in Kos) .
 
The rough guide showed it just at the back of the main street but there was no sign of it. We went to the tourist office and were given a free booklet and a map which seemingly gave more precise directions. DO NOT BELIEVE TURKISH TOURIST MAPS!!. They are a triumph of art over fact - about as accurate as a compass in a magnet factory, all pretty pictures and specious directions.
 
After 30 minutes wandering in the baking sun we sat down, had a large beer and asked directions from a taxi stand. The supervisor (chief tout) said, looking at us as if we were mad,  "Well, if you really want to walk, it is up that large hill behind you"!! After much sweating, swearing and bickering at one another we arrived at a wire fence next to an army camp. Firstly we were accosted by a young girl of 8 or 9 who wanted us to take her photo and then, ever so sweetly, said "Money, money" - who could resist! Then a uniformed character came smiling up to us and showed us into the back door of the Asklepion.
 
It was magnificent, on a glorious spring afternoon with the sun glaring down and the wild flowers in bloom all over the site . It covers a large acreage. There is a marble, column lined road, an underground water complex full of tunnels, various baths, a large amphitheatre and lots of other interesting stuff. By the time we got round it we were in need of drinks. We got back to the wee bazaar at the real entrance to shouts of "Fresh Orange Juice", "Ice Cream, You Scream, We all Scream for Ice Cream", "Cheaper than Chips - Cheaper than Wal Mart". Clearly the traders knew their market.
 
We had fresh orange juice and Gina, suffering mildly from information and culture overload, courageously bought a rather exotic hand bag for about £12.00.
 
We walked back the 3km to the Pensyon, had a simple kebab dinner in a local hostelry and hit the sack.
 
On Tuesday we headed up to the main attraction, the Acropolis and sundry temples, theatres etc started by one of Alexander the Great's generals who was left in charge of a large wad of dosh by Alexander who was then promptly killed. The general decided to build stuff using A.t.G.'s gold. The Goths (the originals, not the morbidly dressed teenagers of the current incarnation) then started the downfall of the place and it was not re-discovered until a German railway engineer found it in 1871 .
 
Despite the huge number of coach parties being hauled around the site - they only 'do' the most spectacular part at the top - we found the place to be uncrowded, peaceful and endlessly interesting. We will always remember the smell of wild broom and the glorious array of wild poppies everywhere. We also encountered some of the local fauna including some shifty looking large lizards, industrious beetles and wild tortoises (well the one that Gina picked up didn't look too happy). We didn't see any larger animals such as rabbits, bears and wolves which were once around here. It is to be assumed that the herds of wild tortoises must have seen them off many years ago!
 
 We walked miles up and down the hill and could have spent a whole day there just enjoying the setting. However, we wanted to be back in Cesme so, after 2 satisfyingly tiring hours, headed back to the Pensyon and thence to Cesme.
 
On arrival back at the boat we nipped rapidly over to the "No Problem" for a couple of beers and reflected on a really enjoyable 2 day trip, knowing that we would now be leaving Turkey in a couple of days .
 
Turkey - Reflections
When we left for Turkey in March we were really not very enthusiastic about the place. However, we were proven wrong from day 1 and will now certainly re-visit it, possibly at the end of this season. It is very inexpensive, the people are very friendly, open and helpful, the cuisine is varied, interesting and, mostly, delicious. The history and historic sites are as good, if not better than those in Greece. The bazaars are fun, although not entirely hassle free.
 
Turkey really does tourism well. While we were in Bergama it was National Tourism Week and we witnessed many school bands parading to town squares and being addressed by local worthies on the importance of tourism. People here aren't sniffy about it being a second rate career for kids. Succesful tourism is about giving good service, making vistors feel welcome, taking the money and getting it into the bank - simple.
 
 The only school band that was absent from the parades seemed to be that from the Turkish school of Touts, Spivs and Associated Trades . One assumes that they must have sold their instruments to a gullible coach party as Ottoman antiques and were celebrating their gains to the sounds of their school anthem "Cheaper than Chips, Cheaper than Wal Mart".
 
All in all we would recommend that those of you who haven't visited it should get yourselves to Turkey soon.
 
Back to Greece.
On Wednesday we started to deal with the bureaucratic process of leaving Turkey only to discover from the harbour master that it was a public holiday. Despite this and the fact that he was technically on holiday, he processed our papers and then told us to how to get everything done by customs and immigration. All of the officials were very pleasant and helpful. In an hour we were legally able to leave Turkey. However we didn't want to go till Thursday so headed back to the boat and kept a low profile for 24 hours (well, except for a few pints in the "No Problem" anyway).
 
On Thursday we arrived on the Greek Island of Khios to gales, rain and the Greek Easter of which more in the next blog.