Denver, Colorado, United States
Our first stop this morning was in Denver at about Denver 7:30 a.m. This was a long stop, so plenty of time to get off the train and walk around, and for those unlucky people in coach to go buy some actual food. The eateries in the station that were open were doing a booming business. I was looking for a newsstand or the like where I could buy a soda, but no dice. There wasn't even one there; it wasn't just that it wasn't open yet.
Last words on the subject of the lack of observation car: first, the lack of a cafe car is just unconsionable. It was maddening even for me; I felt a little guilty every time I sat down to eat. I hope every one of those people in coach is sending vociferous complaints to Amtrak about whatever fool decided they could embark on a two-day trip without food for half the passengers. On our own behalf: Tim has wanted to take this trip for many years--probably 20. We have been waiting to take it since we canceled it in 2020. We had no chance to choose a roommette; we had a 50/50 chance of getting one on the south side, where we would be able to see the incredible views along the Colorado River, but this would not ordinarily be a problem because we could go up to the observation car.
I asked the car attendant what we can do about that and the answer is nothing. No, we can't go into the cafe car to look out the windows there. No, there is nowhere else we can go to in order to see the scenery which is the prominent selling point of this train. Too bad, so sad, not my fault.
When I went back upstairs to our room, I was further enraged to see that station personnel were washing the windows on the south side of the train ONLY. Clearly they get it that the south side is where the views are. Then, once we boarded, the conductor came on and announced that we should all get our cameras ready because we're going to see some beautiful views. Well, SOME of us are! Yes, Amtrak will be hearing from me.
Full disclosure: in the event, Tim found a spot downstairs where we could look out the door of the train. It also turned out that there was an empty roommette on the lower level, so we were able to see the nice views after all, but no thanks to Amtrak! (And those windows were dirty, so the photos need some serious tinkering with!)
At any rate: the Denver Amtrak station is very nice.
I took quite a few photos and posted a few here. Once we left Denver, we were headed into the most scenic part of the trip. First we climb up into the mountains, passing through 28 tunnels en route--including the 6.2 Moffatt Tunnel near the top. Once we come out of Moffatt Tunnel, we are at the highest point the train is going to get to, over 9000 feet. For several hours thereafter, the train winds its slow way back down along the Fraser River and to Winter Park, and then the route follows the Colorado River through Gore Canyon, Byers Canyon, and Glenwood Canyon before crossing into Utah. The scenery really is spectacular, and it changes pretty dramatically as we pass from elevation to elevation and locale to locale. I took something like 600 pictures. I did not post all 600 here.
As we came down out of Byers Canyon, we were looking out the window again and Tim suddenly said: "We haven't been mooned!" My intelligent response was "Huh?" He had to explain that mooning the passenger trains is a tradition amongst rafters down the Colorado.
Before I could even express my amazement that people are so bizarre, we came upon a group of rafters complete with several moonies. Then a few more. Then a few more. I kid you not: not even 10 seconds passed between Tim's remarking on the lack of mooning and our being mooned. I guess they were just waiting for that. How this tradition came about and how it gets promulgated--and WHY it gets promulgated--are questions for the ages.
Shortly after our encounter with the stranger type of back to nature visitors to Colorado, we crossed over into Utah. This was high desert territory--some great views here, too, but very different from up in the Rocky Mountains. Overnight, we will cross Nebraska, and by the time we get up in the morning, we'll be in Pacific Daylight Time, somewhere in Nevada.
Lee Naughton
2022-09-10
Please, please post your letter to Amtrak when it’s finished.
Julia
2022-09-10
I'm really glad Tim found you a decent viewing spot. Amtrak owes him a gratuity. That is beautiful scenery! And so many interesting angles of the moon ....
Kristina
2022-09-12
I love all of your pictures. I can't wait to see more.