Thur 16th Feb
We had booked a minibus trip from LP to Nong Khiaw and planned to stay 2 nights up there before returning to LP! When booking the minibus through an agent you get the local pick up thrown in, LAK70,000 pp . A full tuk tuk arrived to collect us at about 9 – we squished in – luggage thrown on top and headed for the bus terminal. Arrived to find a long line of young backpackers waiting to buy tickets – we had to exchange our voucher for tickets too so joined the queue! Noticed how much these young smoke! We were all heading in the same direction so loaded into about 5 minibuses - chaotic as we had the bus number plate number on the ticket but were told to get in another one – people swapping buses and drivers having to have tickets reissued with right # on it! Mike and I made sure we were sitting in the front row near a window as heard it was a rough road! Squished in like sardines we headed off and boy rough road was an understatement! The road started off well, road works in some areas – driver drove like a bat out of hell – they all overtake on blind corners, race through villages with goats, chickens and kids running all over – they slow down for nothing! The later 1/3rd of the journey was the worst road I have ever driven on – potholes of every size and description, dirt road in stretches – several times the F bomb was heard from the back as a young female traveller who had very little seat and was jammed on a backpack was thrown up the roof! Mike & I had a clear view of the road and had to close our eyes several times! Anyway we arrived safely and were all dropped off over the bridge in Nong Khiaw . We had followed the Nam Ou River most of the way. We had originally wanted to do this trip by boat but due to a new dam being built you can no longer do this through trip. The Chinese are helping fund a series of dams in Laos which means the landscape will be changed forever and the locals who rely on the river for the livelihood will be struggling. Very sad! Feeling hot and exhausted from watching the road all the way – we baled into the first restaurant to get lunch and a drink and get our bearings. A lovely setting – looking over the river. Chanced a fresh spring roll (veg in soft rice wrap) which might have been a mistake as had a rumbly tum for the next few days (or could have been late effects from night market!). Looked up our GH the Vongmany and found it was right behind where we were so didn’t have to wheel the bags far! Room was a bit basic – linens tired – bathroom also tired and old – but had a good view from the passageway outside the door. Set off to explore the town and find info on doing a boat trip up to Muang Ngoi Neua, further up the Nam Ou . Seems like we couldn’t do the commuter up and back in one day – had to overnight up there – even though its just a 2 hour ride! To rent a private boat was going to be about 450,000 LAK and we were leaning to do that – got info from a Green Discovery Tour Agency but as the girl didn’t speak English we would have to return to ask questions and to book. A local agent over the road spotted us and lured us in telling us about his wonderful tour which was much cheaper as we would be supporting locals and not dealing with a foreign company! Trouble was everyone would grin when walking by or you would read signs about not believing everything you are told! We were a little sceptical but booked the special deal at LAK200,00 pp.with Nong Khiaw Adventure Tours. Boat trip up to Muang Ngoi, 2 hours there, lunch included, boat to a village on way back and hike to waterfall for a swim then kayak back to Nong Khiaw for about 2 hours. By now desperately needed an ice-cream and whilst eating chatted to an English couple, about our age who had just arrived . Tried to persuade them to join our tour but they hadn’t decided what they were going to do yet! Al & I wanted to climb up to the lookout over Nong Khiaw to see the stunning views, apparently a 60 min climb! We had to pay the usual village toll at the bottom and then started the climb, through bamboo and forest, creepers, so steep and washed away in some parts that there were rope pulls to help you up. I lasted about 40 mins, we were both sweating like pigs and the chances are we would be coming back in the dark with a flashlight which did not appeal to klutzy me! A few people passed me going up and I decided to wait for Al to call if it was just a further 5 mins.. heard nothing so climbed back down again – passed by a group of monks running down in their flip flops! Made it back to the village – hands filthy from the rope pulls! Sat in the village plastic chair to wait a while for Al – several young monks were there laughing and having fun. Got chatting to the one who spoke decent English – taught by a German teacher at the temple . I offered them all a wet wipe as was cleaning my hands with one.. well they took some, thinking it very funny and asking if they could wipe their faces with it too! I was amazed they took them as they are not supposed to touch things that women are holding! Guess the big kahunas were still coming down from the mountain so no one would know! Tried to teach me a few Lao words – of course gone now but was he was explaining that almost the same sounding words had several meanings – and we though English was difficult to learn! They took off in their truck all the way back to Luang Prabang and I decided to had back to the GH as was getting dark! Alan made it back about 10 mins later – saying of course the views were stunning from the top! Showered and then met up with Mike & Sal and sauntered over to a very busy little Indian restaurant almost opposite the Vongmany. Temp now dropped to about 11’ so dressed in pants and trusty fleecy! The place was full of young backpackers and lots of chatter. One poor little waitress looked after about 10 tables – think her husband was cooking in the kitchen! We had a really tasty meal and was dirt cheap! 

Fri 17 Feb
Early start for our day trip . Met outside the office and were each given a 2L water bottle for the trip. We were relieved to see that the tour was going and also that our guide was actually one from the expensive Green Discovery Tours. (Poached for the day!) We were the oldest on the trip! Not enough seats on the boat (old car seats bolted to the boat!) so Alan & I joined 2 of the young ones to lounge in the back. Was still misty and cool – I had many layers of clothes on so just stripped off as it warmed up! By 930’ish the mist had lifted and you could see the beautiful mountains and Karsts surrounding the river. We passed villagers paddling their small wooden boats, kids playing on the sandy banks of the river, water buffalo submerged in the water – really such a gorgeous sight and a lovely ride up river. We sat chatting to a very nice German guy who filled us in on detail of the Oktoberfest prices – Nikki & Tim talking about going in Oct so was interested to glean some info! There was also a cute Dutch girl on the boat who we had met on the bus the day before and had told us a little about the Uni Tim is going to in Holland in the Fall! (Was gonna get her contact for you Tim but thought it would be a bit forward!). Also chatting with Swiss German young guy travelling alone, he soon joined up with the German trio – joys of travelling – doesn’t take you long to meet people. We have met many people travelling alone and really doesn’t phase them as so easy to meet others and travel with them for a bit! After our beautiful saunter along we arrived at Muang Ngoi where we all agreed we would walk to a cave about 20 min away . Muang Ngoi is a very small town with a few GH’s. It used to be more of a hub than Nong Kiaw but due to the drop in river trips and other factors, things have moved downstream! We ambled in the heat to find the cave with pools in it, apparently a little further than told – 30 mins, passing fallow rice paddies and not much growth in the fields and eventually got to a toll hut! Small toll to visit the cave and pass over a very pretty bamboo bridge to a small village where there were signs posted for weaving classes but not much happening. Only one at a time allowed over the rickety little bridge, so attractive though as situated under a large tree and crossing a small picturesque river! The cave had a pool of clear water that you could wade through and the more adventurous young’uns in the group went through to the back and swam in another pool of water in a deeper cave! Not for this baby! We strolled back and Sal & I made a mad dash for a washroom in a restaurant – getting very disapproving looks on our exit! The guide, “Big” had a very tasty meal of fried noodles &veg for our lunch which he had brought up from Nong Kiaw so was quite surprised when it was still warm and very good! We traveled back downstream a little way and disembarked to walk through a village and hike for about an hour to Tad Mok. Big was very informative about trees and fruits and village life in general. A young guy who had spent 7 years as a monk and now worked as a guide, mainly doing treks into the mountains as that was where his village was. He spoke good English which he learnt as a monk and he had studied Geography. We walked through fallow fields again – but this time there were a few deep mud pools where water buffalo were submerged, many with just nostrils sticking up! Apparently this cools them off a great deal, one of the pools also had morning glory (a veg they eat a lot of in stir fries)growing in it. Got to be healthy with all that buff dung!! The waterfall was pretty – a long skinny drop into a clear pool with freezing water. Some local tourists were there ahead of us with their music blaring and looked like rice whisky being consumed – they very respectfully turned it off when they could see we were staying for a bit! Everyone jumped in for a quick cool down – Hargs of course splashing everyone as they gingerly eased in! That little boy in him just can't resist! Had a good walk back to the boat that then took us to the opposite bank where the kayaks awaited. We set off with great gusto – not much current due to the damming up and down the river so a little more arm work that expected but a beautiful way to travel down the river! Passed pigs and buffalo – actually saw 3 swim across the river (not walk but swim!) and kids swimming – somersaulting into the river – no kids supervised at all – little toddlers and young kids obvs all watching out for each other – you would never see that in the west anymore! We travelled at a steady pace down the river – putting the younger ones to shame – in fact 2 boats baled out and jumped back onto the river boat leaving us 4 oldies and 2 younger folk to complete the trip! In fairness to the 2 girls – they had to get back to get an overnight bus! It was a wonderful trip and I just loved the scenery, observing life along the river and some spectacular limestone karsts and mountains rising up from the river. We got back around 5 and sorted out Big to give him a tip as he was a great guide. Back to GH to shower and get warm clothes on as started to get chilly once the sun went down! Decided not to go back to Indian Restaurant again and just ate at a local place opposite. Nothing wonderful – bumped into the chatty English couple who were still contemplating their next active adventure – very humorous couple.