Wed 22 Feb
We had booked a bus ticket through Nom for the trip from Champasak to Ban Muang by small boat and then apparently there is a bus stop near there at Ban Lak 30 where we would be picked up for the bus ride down to Ban Nakasang LAK 105000 each . We set off at 8 and travelled over with the English couple staying at the GH too. Our boatman got the prop tied up in a fishing net on the way over – no probs just cut it off with a knife – one pissed fisherman when he came to get his haul! Dumped on the sandy bank opposite eyeing a minivan parked nearby. Was too good to be true – wasn’t for us – we had a 5 min walk through the sand to a small town with about 6 backpackers sitting outside a small stall. Apparently this was the bus stop. No-one knew what time the bus was coming or whether it was a bus or minibus! More people arriving and by now we had gleaned from the stall owner that the bus comes at 9ish. Already sweltering hot – finally at about 9.15 a couple of busses rolled in and according to your ticket colour you went with the designated one! Journey around 2 ½ hours with a 10 min loo stop and food break on the way. The road from the turn-off to Nakasang was full of potholes and dirt strips, very bumpy ride. Arrived at bus terminal where many people were sheltering in the small shaded hut waiting for buses . ATM outside the terminal and last chance to grab money as no ATM's on Don Det Island which was our final destination for the day. Walked 10 mins to the water and found the boat ticket office and asked for a ticket to Don Det Village as apposed to Don Det Island where most of the GH’s were. Would save us a 15 min walk as the village stop was right next to Mr Tho’s GH where we had booked into. All this advice given by Mr Tho through our booking.com reservation. About 10 of us in the boat and we were the first off after a 15 min jaunt through the tiny grass islands and rock formations. Very picturesque and now we could see why its called the 4000 Islands! Amazing how much fine sand is in the area – creating beaches everywhere. Many of he beautiful acacia tress hanging over the water – making a gorgeous backdrop! We found Mr Tho’s next door to the drop off steps – again blessing the wonderful Ospreys on wheels! Mr Tho’s place looked delightful – a large platform overlooking the river – full of low tables, lounging cushions and long regular table where many were just hanging out and chatting or glued to phones to catch up news from home or even chilling to YouTube videos as the kids do! There were riverfront bungalows which had hammocks strung on their decks – they were the basic accommodation with no aircon but just fans . We were in the new 2 story garden wing with aircon and lovely black wood floors and furnishings. Balcony stretched across 4 rooms so you walked in front of the rooms. Lovely setting and we were happy that we would be here for 4 nts (CA$134).Mr Tho fairly young – probs in his mid 30’s. Told us he had taken over and added on to his Dads original bungalows as his Dad had passed on 6 years previously. Later find out he was burned to death in his hut – accidental apparently and the person who had started the fire rebuilt the house for them as he was so mortified about what happened. We grabbed some lunch on the very relaxed deck – seems like once people get to Don Det they just can't leave – life is so laid back – people seemed to be extending their stays daily! It was very hot here – around 36’ so could see why everyone turned on the slug mode and appeared to be doing nothing! We rented bikes from Mr Tho and rode up to the northern tip – (we were staying on sunrise strip so warmer in the mornings) and then down along sunrise strip . Many chilled out basic bungalow type accommodation, restaurant bars on platforms overhanging the water and many places serving “happy” smoothies and “happy” cookies – def explained the atmosphere of the island. Even though caught in possession or doing drugs is a death sentence it appears Don Det is immune! The road btw was is just a track around the island – wide enough for a moto or a couple of bikes only. Really charming island and nice to ride around the bumpy track, through little communities and fields of dried rice stalks – so dry that the earth is parched! You pass fisherman, weavers, buffalo and sugar palms along the way. Rode all the way to the southern point to the French bridge crossing to the Island of Don Khon. Lovely guesthouses and restaurants overhanging the water channel between the 2 islands. Returned up the centre of the island on a very slightly wider road that the sorng-t-aus use. Even though the sun was going down we were still very hot! Back for a shower as so sweaty – then rode up to find a restaurant on the northern end and find out about booking a kayak trip for one of the days . We found Mr Mo’s Adventure tours and opted to do the full day trip on the Tuesday so they would pick us up by moto on the morning at 8.30 and bring us to Mr Mo’s for breakfast before getting on the kayaks. By now it was dark and I had to ride with my phone flashlight on in my hand as pitch dark when travelling between places. We found a place with Malay food and an OK deck so had dinner there – not the hottest meal but fairly tasty! Many bugs about and attracted to lights! Found out that they call them chili bugs as if you get them in your eyes they sting for a while – happened on the bike a few times! One poor guy was on his scooter and drove through a swarm of bugs and came to an abrupt stop, rubbing his eyes and crying chilly bugs! The bars around the top of the island seemed to be hotting up, no wonder the kids don’t want to leave the Island – party all night and sleep and veg all day! Found our way back down the track to Mr Tho’s and settled in for the night. 

Thur 23 Feb
We rented bikes from Mr Tho and decided today was for exploring around the 2 adjoining Islands of Don Det & Don Khon . Ate breakfast at Mr Tho’s – best bet seemed to be the fruit, muesli and yoghurt, the coffee was a little bitter and very strong! We headed through the fields and the track on the east side of the island – very scenic and following the water all the way – took about 15 mins to get to the most southerly tip of Ban Hang Det, quite a few Guesthouses here but also the stilted houses of the locals. They use the area under the house, during the day, as their living space as is much cooler. Passed kids swimming and playing in the river and boats chugging through the channel between the Islands. Rode over the French Bridge and had to pay a toll “to go and see the waterfall” but in fact everyone had to pay it so was really a bridge toll which also have you access to the waterfall at Li Phi Falls. We stopped to also look at an old train on display (apparently the track was built to transport boats that had to be broken down as the only way upstream was through a series of falls which were impassible) – so dates way back to the French occupation and exploration days! About 1 ½ kms from the bridge we came across the entrance for Tat Somphamit and had to show our tickets! Tat Somphamit is a raging set of rapids which locals refer to as Li Phi Falls – very dramatic canyons carved out of the rock and water coming from many channels, locals believing this is a spirit trap as they wash down the river! We walked along a narrow path, following the raging waters until reaching a pub and attractive look out point, overlooking Li Phi Beach where a small eddy forms a potential “swimming hole” . Potentially lethal with those currents! We had spied a large thatched building housing a restaurant back at the main falls area so headed there for something cool to drink as were very hot. The temps on the island seemed to have jumped at least 5 – 7 degrees!! Lovely to cool down overlooking the water – even though the power had failed and our first few attempts at ordering had not been successful! Headed back to the bikes and continued down a track to find Long Beach for a swim. Very hot by now and found the beach with 2 restaurants at the end of the road. Had to hot foot it over the powdery sand as was so hot. Water didn’t look so appealing but was wet and cool so had a quick dip in – when you see what happens in the river upstream, the idea of swimming isn't too exciting! Decided to press on and find Ban Hang Khon at the south tip of Don Khon. We followed a track into farming area – nobody seemed to be around except the odd family chilling in the shade under their houses! Zoomed along on our bikes – now desperate for the next drink stop and lunch! We planned to be down in Ban Hang Khon so we could sit and watch for the elusive Irrawaddy dolphins . Apparently about 10 of them live in a wide pool known as Boong Pa Gooang which sits in the channel between Laos & Cambodia. This southerly tip has a French pier where boats take people out to try and spot the dolphins. We made ourselves comfortable in a restaurant, intending to wait out the heat of the day there! They had hammocks strung in front of some of the tables – so I settled myself in and we just sat looking over the water and had a pretty grubby lunch – noodles swimming in a gravy – pretty suspect! We got chatting to a young couple at the next door table – they were from Sweden although she is American and lives with her husband just outside of Stockholm. It was so interesting chatting to them about life in Sweden – we spent about 3 hours just chatting and hanging out ,looking for dolphins. Lucas & Amber – they were just lovely and we really enjoyed the afternoon. At about 4.30 we decided we’d better head back before dark and was quite a ride back! Turns out Lucas & Amber were staying at our GH too, they told us about a great place they had found for dinner and thought we might try and find it later on. Even though it was later in the afternoon it was still very hot riding back! Had a couple of sundowner’s on the deck, showered and then headed off on the bikes to find the place Amber had told us about. The location she told us about seemed all dark and closed up so we ventured a little further and stopped at a riverside platform GH restaurant – cushion seating and low tables and many bugs! Funny thing is that they come out for about an hour, go crazy around the lights and then they mysteriously vanish (well most of them anyway!). We ordered and then Amber & Lucas walked by and came and joined us for dinner! After they sat down they recognised the guy in the kitchen from the place they had told us about – it was his sisters restaurant! He was doing his laundry tonight so had closed – gay guy who kept puffing on some electronic gadget and sharing with anyone who wanted a puff! He cooked Amber & Lucas their fav pad Thai dish – sadly our order was being cooked already by the sister! We had a fun time chatting with them and got Ambers website address so can see about their adventures! Entertained by a very old wizened looking chap who wanted to take Amber and I as his latest wives – very funny and much hilarity but then started getting creepy – telling our fortunes by asking our ages and calculating things on a wheel with spokes on a piece of paper! Finally managed to ditch him and headed back to the GH – really enjoyed hearing all about life in Sweden and the good life they lead there! Great couple.

Fri 24th Feb
Today was supposed to be kayak trip day but I was struck down with revenge from yesterdays lunch or dinner – not surprised! Moto guy arrived to pick us up but had to turn him away as no way I was venturing far from the loo! Spent the day just chilling on the deck at Mr Tho’s – visited later by the tour agent who said it was no problem for us to go the following day. Chatted to some of the people hanging out, a German man travelling on his own who told us about his travels. Spent a long time chatting to a really great kid from France, Remy, whose family had escaped Laos and were resettled in the north of France. He was travelling the world and had no plans to hurry home – he was really enjoying discovering his heritage and had joined up with an old school buddy, Thibeault, for a few weeks. Really interesting and laid back – spoke great English and Remy insisted we get hold of his tuk tuk driver in Siem Reap as he was such a great guy. He Whats App’d him to tell him we were coming and gave me his contact info. Such a lazy day but all was well and stuck to rice and drier food for the day and all was fixed! Walked up to the northern tip of the Island and had a drink overlooking the water, watching the little ferry shuttles coming in and dropping off the next load of backpackers! Decided to play it safe and eat at Mr Tho’s for dinner.

Sat 25th Feb
Up early and picked up the moto for the transfer up to Mr Mo’s for breakfast before heading out on our kayak trip. Basically a baguette and scrambled egg with a cuppa coffee then given a waterproof bag for our belongings and headed down the steep steps to jump on our chunky kayaks. Luckily most of the paddling was going with a fairly fast flowing current. There were only 5 kayaks so 10 in all – great size as some of the trips had about 30 in them! The 2 leaders were in one boat – showing us the way through the many little islands travelling downstream! After about half an hour we pulled into shore and left the kayaks to be transported by tractor/trailer to our lunch spot. We set off for a walk through the villages and dry rice paddies to find the waterfall at Kon Pa Soi Falls. Went down steep steps again and the one guide left with us (one had gone with kayaks) took off into the falls for a shower! Pretty falls with a very strong current and force from the waterfall – the younger kids all joined in, slipping and sliding but very refreshed! The poor guide then lost his flip flop and watched it floating off down stream! Was going to be a hot walk in the sand and dirt in the heat! Another large kayak group came along so we continued our hike through more small collections of huts , the guide yelping about his hot foot, then luckily the tractor drove by and so the other guide gave him his crocs to wear!  We eventually got to a beach stop where we were to have lunch. We all had a quick dip whilst the guides set up lunch and made a fie to BBQ chicken on. Had a vey tasty baguette with a kebab full of chicken and roasted veg, way too hot to eat all the noodles they made too. Then they made a huge fruit salad for us all with watermelon, pineapple and bananas & had plenty of water bottles for us all. Great to sit in the shade and watch the water steaming by through a series of rocks which had various bamboo fish traps set on them. After being refuelled and refreshed we set off for the rapids section of the trip. Fast flowing water and nothing too bad made an exciting part of the trip – we came out of this channel and the river opened up to the huge area below the French Pier where we had been for lunch a couple of days earlier! Many grass islands dotted all over and Cambodian islands right in front of us. We were in search of the elusive Irrawaddy dolphins and after about 5 mins Alan spotted something in the water. We headed over and sure enough there were 3 dolphins just swimming along (apparently these days there are only about 3 left in this basin). They have very large rounded snout – a little like the beluga whale so not very pretty but of course much smaller. They swam away from us but we waited there and a boat passing from the other direction sent them tuning back to us, they were very close and we were luckily to see them as not every trip gets the privilege! We stopped by one of the large concrete markers in the river so the younger kids could jump and dive off it into the river. One of the guys was an Italian blog writer who lived in Barcelona writing blog for the city tourist web pages and spent the other half his year writing a travel blog. He was saying how he always hates the pressure of writing and having to keep active as people want up dates daily, and he gets to somewhere like Don Det that is so chill and just wants to take time off! The internet’s terrible so he is struggling to upload his pics and writing and people have their expectations from him. Said I didn’t feel sorry for him at all as he was being paid to travel! Fun guy who was always doing something crazy to catch it on his Go Pro for his blog, hence he was trying to somersault off the concrete marker – provided lots of entertainment! He was now in the kayak with the guide who had been clowning around and he soon found out he was expected to do all the paddling so giving the guide a hard time! They mysteriously stopped off on a Cambodian Island to drop off the garbage!?? We had to work quite hard to get across the fast flowing water and work our way over to the boat stop just before the Cambodian border! The Italian by now moaning that he’d had to make a garbage stop and paddle his lordship across the current – such an hilarious character! We spotted the truck on the spillway and unloaded there. Kayaks loaded in the transport truck and we sat on the benches in the back too – making our way to the Khon Phapheng Falls. It is here, along the Mekong that there is a stretch of 13kms with powerful rapids and several sets of cascades, the largest being these Falls. It claims to be the widest falls in the world – if you add all the sections together I guess they are right! We took photos and had an ice-cream here – pretty dramatic long, but not exceptionally deep, Falls. They also have a shrine dedicated to a holy tree that was taken from the top of the falls by helicopter and laid to rest in the shrine. Back in the truck for the bumpy ride back to Ban Nakasang, via the ATM as there isn’t one on the Island! Then we kayaked back the last section, about 30 mins to cross over to Don Det and return the kayaks. Lovely coming in through the tiny islands at about 4 in the afternoon. Said adios to all the gang we had met and spent the day with, recovered with a Shandy on the deck on the river and then walked back to Mr Tho’s. Was a great day – hot but great to be on the water and got to do a lot! Decided to eat at Mr Tho’s – lovely on his deck – spent time chatting with Remy and the German fellow Jorge we had met the day before. Nice way to end the day and had a great noodle dish, cooked by the dear young Mr Tho himself!