Cachi, Salta Province, ArgentinaElenka and I decided to go on another driving excursion from the north/western hub city of Salta.
We wanted to meet and mingle with the mountain people directly south of Salta. But while there were plenty of dogs and parrots, the route was conspicuously short of humans. We’d see far more mountains than people.
The first day was a 200 kilometre paved road drive to Cafayate. At an elevation of 1,683 metres the area has some of the highest vineyards in the world. One wine in particular, a white called Torrontés has apparently made some inroads amongst those who know their wine. We wanted to try it because we’re from Toronto and it reminded us of home-sweet-home. Delicious and fruity were the terms used to describe the Torrontés at the winery we visited. We tried two: the dry one was bland; the semi-sweet tasted like it had been supplemented with a sugar additive. Neither worked. I wanted to tell the pourer that since there aren’t so many vineyards at that elevation, maybe they should plant their grapes a little farther down the hill. But my language skills weren’t nearly at the required level.
After a restful sleep with a mountain view at a place called Paris, Texas, it was upward and onward. This time to Cachi, a northern route over a twisty, turny, very bumpy road. A road where small mistakes can send you to Hell with no notice. White crucifixes and broken guard rails are spread every few kilometres to show the folly of recklessness. While Elenka saw the most beautiful mountain landscapes, I saw little more than each and every hairpin turn.
In the enchanting tiny town of Cachi we stayed the night at a small hotel with a very Spanish inner courtyard, just off Parque Central.
We dined at a restaurant on the park and sampled another wine, this time red, which wasn’t much better than the earlier whites. Good thing this excursion had been more about scenery than wine.
The next morning we would drive in and around the highest peaks of the region. It would be the shortest distance travelled on the three day trip, but because of the more severe twists and turns, it would also be the slowest. The landscape on Route 33 was far different than the previous two days. While the mountains of days one and two were filled with jagged outcrops, day three was considerably higher, yet remarkably greener. Elenka said it reminded her of Ireland. When I told her that she’d never been to Ireland, she replied that she had seen many photos of the Emerald Isle. Good enough!
It had rained a little on the morning when we drove Route 33. There are no bridges on these mountains with their narrow roads. When water washes down a mountain it simply takes whatever is in its way with it. If it rains a lot you might wind up staying there for a very long time. As it stood though, none of these newly formed rivers were strong enough to carry us over a cliff. We made it up, and most of the way down.
At an altitude of around 500 metres we were in descent, following a truck. Then we were met by police. There was a detour, most likely caused by falling rocks. Down a muddy hill we went, then through a forest, before coming to a river. The trucker paused for just a moment, then into the river he went, like he was motoring a speedboat. We followed, but way more slowly. After around three kilometres and another river crossing we arrived back on the road. If it hadn’t been for the trucker we would not have made it through this one.
Matej
2018-03-02
the nature there looks absolutely stunning!!
Irene
2018-03-02
Jack, how I envy you both, I would take your adventures over a spa get away, or a cruise or any other imaginably classified vacation any day. I occasionally forward your blogs on to friends and family. Just invited my daughter to have a look, and see how beautiful and stress free life can be, all you have to do is just DOIT!! warm hugs
Barbara
2018-03-02
Stunning scenery! BTw I think those 2 birds were macaws or parakeets. Parrots have shorter tails according to my field guide of Argentinian birds. Do you remember how big they were? Any colour on them besides green? Maybe I can narrow it down- not that you care!
Koji Furukawa
2018-03-03
Elenka and Jack .................From a train in Tokyo to a lost road in Salta, Argentina. Hope to catch you soon !!!!! Big hug from Chile
Margo
2018-03-03
Great story Jack! I can just imagine the drive. :)