Malapascua Island, Central Visayas, Philippines
Monad Shoal is a thirty minute boat ride from Malapascua Island. We set anchor at 6:00 a.m. just as the sun begins to rise. There’s often a strong current at the shoal so we descend twenty metres on a barnacled old rope. Today however, the water is calm, no current; it’s just a short swim from the bottom to a ledge. Another eight metre descent down a coral covered wall takes us to our adrenalin rush - the thresher sharks. We wait three, maybe four minutes, then one after the other after the other, massive tails trailing them, they sail past us like soaring birds - not at all interested in bubbling meat.
On this, just her fourth dive after becoming a certified scuba diver, Julska fins the sea bottom as though she was born to be there. The only indication of her newbiness, is how she holds her breathing regulator to her mouth as though a fish or other sea creature might take it away from her. I remember thirty-five years ago how I did the exact same thing. It took me a year to get over this phobia; I’m fairly certain Julska will ditch the need before she leaves the Philippines.
The thresher sharks of Monad Shoal were first discovered in 1996. And since then Malapascua has become a go-to place for dive enthusiasts. That doesn’t seem to sit well with at least some of the locals. Our new ‘resort’ with swimming pool, sits fenced within the impoverished quarter, results of Typhoon Yolanda which decimated the area in 2013.
Yesterday, just around the corner, an old local played boom-boom base through speakers as tall as Elenka. Does he hate us all, I wondered? Or is he focusing on the mainland Chinese, dressed in everything from designer robes with matching hats to pyjamas with Disney characters, who are here to celebrate Chinese New Year? The man who owns the resort explained - actually complained - that our toilet doesn’t work because the parts are all made in China. But his inner smile betrayed him. He, and every other hotel owner on Malapascua are happy that they’ve been able to double their rates because Chinese New Year has placed the island’s vacancy rate at zero.
The ever-thinking Elenka, who knows all about Chinese New Year, booked our cabina months ago. So we’re okay, sort of.
Recycling & rubbish in the Philippines: Compared to many countries in South-East Asia, the Philippines is clean as a whistle. Plastic straws are verboten for example. This may seem small, but it’s a major first step in keeping plastic out of the sea. This morning while walking back to our cabina after breakfast I came across a young lad who was crushing recyclable beer cans with a rock. I asked him for a can and then showed him how he could easily flatten them out by folding the tops and bottoms with a simple press of his thumb on the right spots. The boy smiled and thanked me, then showed me what a quick learner he was. I walked away proud of my contribution. Moments later I heard the smash of rock on tin. The lad must have liked the sound.
CATE
2019-02-04
Oh so beautiful underwater ..............that gangplank looked pretty narrow for everyone, but I'm sure you've been thru many difficult situations which makes all of you A1 troupers. Julska is young........young can conquer anything. Great photos....you and Ellen look very happy and content......nice to see!! What was the problem getting on the bus......looks ok to me....you'd surely be noticed!!
CATE
2019-02-04
I just thought I would mention.......I heard (last 6 months......maybe) that A&W is quitting plastic straws .........there probably is more business's going the same way.......good to hear it's already being done elsewhere!
Stephz
2019-02-06
Lovely sharks....not. love the sites. Please post more photos of your accommodations....we are intrigued.
Harold
2019-02-08
where exactly is Malapascua isl. I have been to Cebu and Bohol and I must say it's the first time I've seen sharks with tales pretty amazing , keep enjoying the sun and warm weather because it's the exact opposite here in T.O.