Puerto Iguazú, Misiones Province, ArgentinaPuerto Iguazú, Argentina - Elenka and I are standing at the point where the darkest of brown waters of the Iguazú River flow into the mighty Paraná River.
And it’s no small wonder these waters look as chocolatey as they do, just over 27 kilometres east of here stand the thunderous cataracts of Iguazú Falls. Tomorrow we will return to the Falls to see if after nine years of travelling, we’ll be as entranced by their majestic beauty as we were almost a decade ago.
We got up bright and early, breakfasted on cheese, bread and coffee, then off we went. First we walked the upper trail where you look down on the water. Then the lower trail, where you look up for a very different perspective. There was a gentle breeze off the water, the Falls are still as magnificent as before. But is it maybe a little busier than before?
Last week during dinner, I broached the subject of travel technology with Elenka. We usually book a place to stay in advance when arriving in a city that is foreign to us. Particularly after taking a lengthy bus journey to get to a destination. Bus stations everywhere are in the seediest parts of towns, and we almost always get lost. Not only do we end up walking with backpacks three or four times farther than we should, I usually end up swearing a great deal.
I explained all of this to Elenka and then suggested we invest in a hand-held GPS thingy.
My darling glared at me for the longest time, then went into a google rant. She said the only true adventure we have now is getting lost in ‘seedy parts of towns’. Then she started on the kids, young and old, who sit at home with their hand-held devices. They’re bored and they want fulfillment — something special to do. So they google places to go, where hamburgers and hotdogs are always available, beer is on ice, and Internet is at the speed of their need. They get Uber to take them to the airport. They arrange their places to sleep through booking.com. They meet all kinds of other like-minded people whose homes are often not far from their own, and when it’s all over they get Uber to deliver them back to their homes after getting off their airplanes. She reminded me of all the people we’ve met who were on their way to Burma, but had never heard of Bagan, the planet’s single greatest ancient temples site. It went on and on and on.
When we’d finished Iguazú’s upper and lower trails it was time for Garganta del Diablo — The Devil’s Throat. Our first hint of disappointment came when the train to get there was full and we’d have to wait for the next one. From the train stop to the Devil’s Throat it’s a walk of about a kilometre. The walkway over oftentimes foamy current is now wider and stronger than it was nine years ago — nothing at all scary. Before our arrival I noticed a young woman in a black T-shirt with depictions of Lucifer. She’d find no Satanism in the throat of this Devil. When we got there Elenka and I were shocked. The Devil’s Throat panorama had been smothered by the bored horde, taking photographs of themselves. We looked at one another as Elenka said, ‘We should never have returned to this place of magic.’ Then we dropped our heads and walked away.
On the train ride back we met a couple of Americans who were going on about some Horizon or Verizon telephone plan where they can phone anywhere in the world for $10 a day. It was the one-and-only time in my life when I’d wished I had a phone and could make a faraway phone call. I had found out earlier in the day that my uncle Peter Morris, the father of John Peter Morris, who was like a little brother to me when we were kids, had died. R.I.P. Pete.
Irene
2018-03-08
Those pics are beautiful, so when is Elenka opening her studio in Toronto? She is quite the photographer! I love travelling with you both. Your wife is so smart, of course the fun is in the getting lost and getting found again part of your journey, how else would you experience the beauty others couldn't even dream of. Keep them coming, I am forwarding to Kim and Ross each time. You have two new fans. warm hugs Irene
Stephanie
2018-03-08
I like Uber, soft beds in cool neighborhoods and am rather attached to my pixel 2. But I still manage to get lost, discover new things and find the small, out-of-the-way places that make traveling special. It is kind of ironic that you travel blog, as this is the single greatest contribution to the increase of hoards going to special places and "ruining" them for you by their very presence. Maybe less public reportage is in order, and not a ban on GPS?
Mary P
2018-03-08
It sounds like the magic of traveling is beginning to fade or maybe you guys are tried. Time for the beach. You’re pics are beautiful. I love the butterflies and animals.
Daniel
2018-03-09
In many ways you're right, technology has ruined the old way of traveling. The days of just showing up at a hotel, check it out and stay as long, or short, as you like is rapidly disappearing. The rubes that used to be to scared to take of into the unknown isn't anymore because most places are known now. There are still places to go to though, some might have a footnote or two on the Foreign Departments website but everyone knows they're just a bunch of fraidy cats anyway
peter
2018-03-10
sorry to hear about your uncle internet sluggish so can't see Elenka's pics atm we are enjoying Gili Meno got here yesterday. Lovely bungalow found on booking.com.....Progress eh?
John Peter
2018-03-13
Thank you for your condolences Jack. Please travel safe. We will have some time together when you get home.