Having had plenty of culture and history in the last few days we decided to take advantage of the fact that we were approaching one of Peru's favourite beach resorts. We booked an overnight bus and the owner of the hostel offered to meet us from the bus, even though our estimated time of arrival was 5am. We set off from Chiclayo at about 10pm and had dropped off to sleep by the time all the lights came on at midnight to wake up those who were getting off somewhere else. Lots of shuffling about etc. Then, before we could set off again we had the procession of women selling bottled water (quite sensible), crisps (generally homemade, bland and very greasy) and cups of jelly (a Peruvian favourite and sold everywhere on the streets).

Needless to say we were not enticed. We buried our heads and eventually got back to sleep. After a few more brief stops, we were woken again by the lights coming back on and a voice shouting Máncora. We seemed to have got there very quickly and indeed we had. We checked our watches and it was 3am!

We knew that our hostel was just a small place and at the top of a hill but had no directions other than to phone when we arrived. Máncora also turned out to be a lot smaller place than we expected. There was no bus station or all-night cafe where we were dropped off. A few local people got off the bus at the same place and soon disappeared in tuk-tuks. We turned down all the tuk-tuk drivers feeling that our only option really was to call the hostel and wake them up, very apologetically, which we did. A few tuk-tuk drivers hung around the deserted main (and only) street hopefully even though we kept telling them someone was coming to collect us, then the local police turned up and asked if everything was ok and also waited with us!   It was about the least threatening place we have been in but nice to know that they were concerned (or bored!). They asked where we were going, whether we had a reservation, when had we phoned the owner, was the hostel in Máncora (and we confirmed with them that this was actually Máncora!) and such like.
They seemed concerned about the length of time we were waiting so we stretched our Spanish into explaining that we had originally arranged a 5am pick up but the bus had actually arrived 2 hours earlier and therefore we had woken up the owner and he was probably having to get dressed etc. Eventually Juerg arrived, the tuk-tuk drivers gestured to his car and called to us 'Kon Tiki’ (the name of our hostal) and the police bid us farewell and wished us a happy stay. What a welcome!

The Kon Tiki is a lovely relaxing place on the hilltop, at the end of a steep and twisting dusty track. All the buildings have bamboo roofs and the centrepiece is a stunning high ceilinged mirador and shady cafe area. Our split-level bungalow is next door and shares the view out over the sea. We can hear the crash of the sea whilst lying in bed. In fact we can see the sea whilst lying in bed! When we’re tired of being in bed we can relax on our patio where we have a hammock and a couple of deckchairs to watch the several kinds of big birds swooping around.
The Magnificent Frigatebirds and Turkey Vultures have soared over our heads but they've not managed to capture us (and we didn't manage to capture the turkey vultures either but we've found a photo from the internet for you!). And today a long line of brown pelicans did a flypast for us, presumably on their migration somewhere or other. A two minute walk down a steep footpath takes us to the town and the beach. A steep five minute walk brings us back!

Needless to say there’s not much to report. We’ve seen no gold, no ruins, not even been in a cathedral, but we’ve relaxed, had a dip in the sea, burnt our feet on the sand and thought a bit about where we go next and how! We’ve done a few deckchair lessons in surfing. Lots of people learn to surf here so we’ve learnt all the techniques, just not put them into practice on the water.

Much in this place is peaceful until each evening when the funfair, directly below us if we look over the cliff, starts up. Most of the rides are obviously designed for small kids and it rarely seems to have more than a handful of customers but it plays music at blaringly high volumes. Strangely, perhaps due to some quirk of the acoustics, it is not so obvious when you are down at street level but it is very loud up here (and bamboo huts are not good sound insulators). Jen has noted a very tinny version of Row, Row, Row The Boat.... but all I can hear is the repetitive beats of rap, techno and reggaeton all night. By all accounts the fair set up as a temporary measure for Easter on what was the town's sports field. Nobody seems to know when they are going to leave and the fair certainly shows no sign of packing up at present. Still, you can’t have everything; it is quiet during the day. Our hosts, Patricia & Juerg, are lovely and the place they’ve built here is fabulous.