We made a further long bus journey (which of course became an even longer long bus journey because that is what happens in Colombia) to reach the Atlantic coast port of Cartagena de Indias. This is an historic city in South America (founded 1533) and was for many years the principal Spanish port for the exportation of gold and the importation of slaves from Africa. Of course, all the treasure stored there waiting for a boat to Europe, made it a tempting target for pirates. In the 16th century alone it was beseiged five times, most famously by the English pirate Francis Drake in 1586.



All this activity led the Spanish to construct very substantial and elaborate walls around the city with frequent even stronger forts. Over the years the town has expanded substantially and is still Colombia's biggest port. However, the historic centre retains many of the colonial buildings. From our point of view it was the first time for months that we have looked out at an ocean and seen the Atlantic rather than the Pacific.

The largest fort still remaining was close to our hostel and we went for an explore. The ramps and walkways were fascinating and we were frequently at a bit of a loss as to which direction to take as we strolled around looking out onto the town. However, this paled to insignificence when we ventured into the tunnels that fill the fort.  

Pathways went off in all directions, punctuated by alcoves and further tunnel entrances. The corridors descended steeply into the very bowels of the fortress, some leading off into darkness (and of course we did not have a torch with us). It was bewildering and it would have been very easy to get completely lost but luckily Jen employed her now legendary sense of direction and we eventually found our way back to the surface.

At the very top of the fort we found ourselves right next to a massive twelve metres long national flag. Tony bravely took hold of one corner and was almost swept away on the wind (not really but the wind in the flag was very strong).

The historic centre is very attractive with cobbled streets, many plazas and a good sprinkling of ancient churches. Many of the other buildings have wooden balconies looking onto the streets that are covered with climbing plants such such as bougainvillea. The old walls still stand around much of the town and create an interesting walk around the place looking down into the town streets and squares. We enjoyed our stroll around town although we are now back in touristland so we were constantly hassled by people to go into their cafe, restaurant, jewelry shop etc. A new twist here is people walking along beside you inviting you into each shop you pass although they are nothing to do with any of the shops, presumably hoping for a cut of any purchase you might make.

An interesting feature of many of the buildings here (including the walls) is the use of what looks like building blocks cut from dead coral. we weren't able to find out if these were reefs that had been left high and dry after sea level changes or a systematic removal of old rock from below the surface. We're sure that if any of our readers know, they will tell us!

One of Cartegena's tourist attractions is the House of the Inquisition, which is now a museum claiming to have information about the Inquisition and examples of the implements of torture employed.



The museum disappoints. It is true that it is a fine colonial house where the Inquisition was based for over two hundred years. It does have some information about the Inquisition and its purpose but much of it turns out to be a bit of a damp squib. The Inquisition generally concerned itself with identifying witches but in Cartegena the main proccupations were bigamy and prostitution. There was very little violence or torture and the inquisitors themselves are described as honest, just and with strong faith. Records indicate that there were no more than five executions during its whole existence, which is pretty measly stuff considering its infamy!

The museum's collection of torture apparatus turns out to be a handful of modern replicas of instruments that might have been used. However, each has a small comment that 'these implements were never used in Cartegena'. Of course, nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition and in this case there was certainly little evidence of it. What we also didn't expect to find in one of the courtyards was yet another statue from San Augustin. At this rate there will be no need for us to go there, there will be no statues left in situ!

We were a bit surprised to come across an interesting section of sidewalk just outside one of the main squares commemorating all the Miss Colombias from 1934 onwards. It seems that Colombians are still very excited by beauty contests and each region devotes considerable funds to choosing and supporting their candidates to go forward to any number of different competitions. Putting aside any feminist issues and overlooking past involvement of drug barons, there also seems to be quite a bit of hipocracy.






In 2005 Miss Bogotá was ousted from the contest because she had posed in underwear for a health magazine. When similar claims were made about another candidate, the judges looked closely at the clothing and decided that it was swimwear so all was OK.