This morning’s excursion
was to Yemerhane Kirstos cave church outside of Lalibela through a beautiful
mountainous landscape. It the region was
very dry but in this wet season from May to July the rains give life back to
the vegetation with the vegetation lasting again for a few more months. We are at 2800 meters above sea level and we
walk for 20 minutes which is approximately 400 metres. This was a bit of a
slow walk due to the altitude. All of these churches
were constructed in the 12th century.
Finally we reach
the top and see a church which is very different to the rock hewn churches which
Lalibela is known for. This one has been
built inside the cave with cedar, limestone and rocks and just fits under the cave
ceiling. Inside the church the ceiling is
carved from wood and naturally in the middle section is a replica of the Ark of
the Covenant. Outside this church is the
third section which is used for chanting.
At the back of the cave the guide shows us where there are 700 year old
skeletons of pilgrims who wished to be kept here and a tomb which holds the person
who built this church.
The afternoon we
visited the second group of the rock-hewn churches; Bete Emanuel (house of
Emanuel) is architecturally the finest. There are three rock churches on this
site. After entering the first rock
church over a bridge we walk through the underground tunnels to enter the other
two. Some restoration has been completed
as the first church as a large crack due to the rain on the roof seeping
through as these churches have a flat roof where the St George church as a
slanted roof and a gutter for the water to run off. Speaking of rain we had a thunder storm which
lasted for about 15 mins so by the time we were ready to head off to the next
rock church the sun was out.
A small walk
from these three rock churches is Bete Giorgis (the house of George or St
George) which is the finest of all the churches in Lalibela. Art historians conclude that this church is
carved at the end of the cluster, after the masons have developed their skills
to carve churches with such extraordinary perfection. This church is the one which
has the cross on the top and is the one which is mostly displayed when
Ethiopian churches are mentioned. We
enter into these three churches and are shown all around except for the inner
section as it is only for priests and deacons and holds a replica Ark of the
Covenant. With the St George rock church
you can see that the roof is the same level as the ground level. To enter we
walk down a narrow path carved in the rock which gets deeper as you descend. This church is not as large as the other
churches, both sides of the cross are 10 metres wide. In Ethiopia, it is believed that the rock churches
were carved into the ground so that they would be protected from destruction as
many churches during this time were destroyed by Muslims.
2025-05-22