Tuesday 19 June

Today we set off for Trani on the east coast, the capital of the Puglia region, via a winding road over the Appenines and down again.   We saw Vesuvius again, this time with what looked like a puff of steam, and it was obvious from that height that there was barely a green space to be seen all along the coast to the north and south.   Our bus took us to Naples railway station where we had lunch then continued on a public bus to Trani.   We dozed for some of the time and the scenery is as the photos show: agricultural, very well kept farms with hay bales all over the place (the round ones, only saw two farms with the old-fashioned oblong bales), then there were grapes and olives as we got closer to the coast, some stone and pip fruit orchards, wheat – Pete thought it looked like the Canterbury foothills just beyond Sheffield, lovely rolling country.   We saw countless wind turbines, apparently a major source of energy in this area, a great sight – there had to be thousands of them. There were a few quite big areas with large solar panels lined up too.   Rivers looked just like New Zealand with similar greenery and stony riverbeds just right for taking kids swimming.

Checked into the hotel then an hour later we were off to the middle of town for a walking tour with guide Marco, very easy to understand, made the history of the town come alive.   We visited the loveliest cathedral, all creamy gold stone and so peaceful – apparently it had a Baroque makeover but all that has been removed in recent years and, as in other churches we’ve seen, the original frescoes have been mostly lost but there are a few left to see.    Built in 1099 it was cleaned a few years ago, with the tower being completely dismantled and rebuilt – you can see the colour change in the photo.   They cleaned and rebuilt the two lower levels then decided they’d been too aggressive in the cleaning so eased off for the rest of it.  The church is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim who was a young man from Greece, arrived in Trani on a pilgrimage to Rome, aged only 19.  He was a farm boy who seemed to have some difficulties due to his isolated life, and couldn’t communicate other than to chant over and over that he was going to Rome.   People thought he was strange and he was thrown out of several towns but through what seemed to be kindness to children and animals in Trani he stayed on.  He became ill and then died of pneumonia three weeks later but due to his holiness several miracles were attributed to him and he was eventually canonised.    The crypt chapel contains his relics – lower arm bones in a silver casing, and a statue, it felt a privilege to be there.  The air was full of incense which just added to the atmosphere.

We continued around the waterfront which was lovely with older stone buildings on one side and the marina on the other side with fishing boats anchored up and a few fish stalls still selling octopus, shrimps, sardines and other varieties.  We saw the oldest synagogue in Europe, built in the time of Frederic 2.  He was very liberal, wanted to learn from the Jews, Muslims and Christians so encouraged them to come to Trani.  Most Jews came from Spain, the Balkans and Croatia.  There was also a big influence by the Venetians and Dalmatians.  The sunset was stunning, the sun’s rays pierced the clouds and shone out into the sky above us.    

There are a lot of churches in Trani and we were told it was a jumping-off spot for the crusaders; they had plenty to pray about before they set off for the Holy Land, and even more to be thankful for if they came back alive!

Dinner was one of the nicest we’ve had, mostly fish on the menu and we all had plenty to talk about, the tour group is very easy to get on with.  I had sea bass in a lemon cream sauce – not really a fish eater but I could be converted!   The desserts were given full marks by the team, Pete shared his chocolate semi-freddo.      A perfect end to a good day, not too busy, but with plenty to see.

Wednesday 20 June

This was a free day in Trani so we all did our own thing after a lazy breakfast.  We headed into town at 10.30, first stopping at the cathedral again because it was well worth a second look.  This time we struck a wedding rehearsal and two singers practicing. The organ (a recently reconditioned Hammond) is huge and has a beautiful tone.    The church steps and inside were decorated with blue and white flowers, little fancy-wrapped boxes of rice were all waiting for the guests too.  The carpet in the aisle was covered with a white runner and everything looked perfect.  One of the group managed to capture some photos of the bridal couple in the lanes near the cathedral later, perfect.  

Mad dogs and Pete go out in the midday sun – and off he went to the end of the breakwater to take a few photos and ‘just to say I’ve been there’ while I stood in the shade of the cathedral and people-watched.  Clothing in this part of Italy is certainly less brief than in Amalfi, there it was anything goes especially tiny, tiny shorts and barely-there tops.   There isn’t a beach in Trani but people were sitting or sunbathing on the breakwater rocks, all shapes, sizes and ages.  It was extremely hot, not helped by the sun reflecting off the white stone pavers everywhere, but we walked round to the far end of the waterfront, then part way back again when we stopped for lunch.   I didn’t fancy Pete’s octopus and olive paté panini one little bit but he said it was tasty.

We had a couple of hours back in the hotel then it was off again to visit Castel del Monte about half an hour away on a road which was planted on both sides with olives as far as the eye could see.  This castle was built in about the 13^th century, had been neglected and vandalised through the years but is now a UNESCO world heritage site.  It’s completely empty but as Pete said, you are better able to appreciate the construction of the castle.   It may have been built in a strategic position but doesn’t have defensive components (e.g. arrow slits etc) other than a portcullis; some say it was a hunting lodge, another theory was that Frederic 2 used it to observe the stars because the central courtyard is open to the sky.   Whatever, it was well worth the visit and is now being looked after very well.   We just wandered and took in the thick walls (at least 1 – 1.5m), the pink coral stone doorways throughout, very detailed stonework above the windows with different coloured stones inset in perfect order.    There were only two chimneys I think; one we could see though it had been broken up almost to the ceiling.   The creamy stone has been worn smooth over the years by countless people walking on stone floors and sitting on what seemed to be built-in stone benches along all walls so maybe Frederic was a bit of a party man.     It’s well worth the preservation effort.   Jacopo was a bit hesitant about taking us there, and afterwards told me the previous group he’d taken to Castel del Monte thought it was too empty and not interesting, but all ten of us agreed it was worth a visit.

Dinner tonight was with eight of us sitting at a table in a stone arched alleyway, great food and company.    I sat by Jacopo, he’s been a tour leader for about three years, having lived and worked in Australia for a couple of years and the UK for several months.   It was the end to another great day.

 A note on Italian parking……. which is inventive.   You see cars parked across pedestrian crossings (hazard lights on, outside a convenience store, just popped in for something quickly), tiny electric cars tucked into a space that’s not even a space, cars parked parallel even when the road markings are clearly marked for angle parking.    It seems if there’s a space you just drive in.