God had better be nice with the weather today, it is my birthday and I would love to take the car ferry across to Valencia Island. Early start today as there will be a swimming carnival here at 10am and we don’t want to get caught on the narrow road that leads to this little beach.
Lucky for us the three sites we want to explore are all close by on this narrow road. First is the Leacanabuaile Stone Ring Fort dating back to the 6-7th century owned by a wealthy farmer to protect and defend his farmland. Down the road is the very impressive Cahergal Stone Ring Fort well over a 1,000 years old and were the main defensive homesteads offering protection for livestock and against invaders, it has been restored in sections making it very interesting to see how people lived thousands of years ago. We had fun getting up and down the track to the fort with cows grazing on the track and hill where the fort is. The panoramic views of the valley and out to sea are breathtaking even in the light rain and mist hanging over the land.
Last to explore was the ruins of Ballycarbery Castle built round the 15th century would have been very impressive standing on the hill.
It’s 10am and we got caught with oncoming traffic to Cuas Crom Beach, the Irish drive too fast on narrow roads and we were glad to reach the narrow one-way bridge over the Fertha River to Cahersiveen to buy another gas bottle (€22.00) nothing like running out of gas when you have a fridge full of food and you are cooking.
A little further on is the car ferry to Valencia Island and we just made it in time for the crossing (€7.00) to Knightstown planned by the Knight of Kerry, is the main picturesque village built around the harbour. Valencia has many historical buildings from the cable era of the mid 1800’s when the first transatlantic cable was laid.
Sorry to say the rain has set in as we drive down the very steep winding road to the Lighthouse out on the rocky coastline point overlooking Dingle Bay, Beginish Island to the Killelan Mountains and the mainland of Ireland.
Like many others that drove down to view the lighthouse we all turned back, no one wants to pay €5.00 each to walk around the lighthouse and soak in the magnificent views we all know what a lighthouse looks like. Can’t see much through the rain anyhow plus I pity the two ladies that cycled all the way down only to walk all the way up the steep hill.
The rain has put a damper on things we didn’t bother to drive to Glenleam to see the beach, or the rare tropical plants at Glenleam House and Gardens. Thought we would drive to the Geokaun Mountain and Fogher Cliffs for an unmissable 360̊ view but all we saw for our €5.00 was fog a big zero very disappointing. The young lass at the ticket office said there has been fog for the last week or so and they are waiting for the wind to clear the sky.
The narrow roads and rain is too much for us plus we are very damp from getting in and out of the motorhome decided to give the Skellig Experience a big miss would have been nice to stroll round Knightstown and see the other sights on the island but we just drove straight through the little village of Chapeltown over the long bridge to Portmagee on the mainland to continue on the Wild Atlantic Way to N70 the Ring of Kerry.
From Portmagee we missed the panoramic views of the 300m Kerry Cliffs a 10 minute walk from Blasket View House and Skellig Michael which was featured in “Star Wars: the Force Awakens”.
Very dangerous driving up and round the winding mountainside of Kilkeaveragh Mountain with the ocean way below from the side of the road, unable to see through the fog going round hairpin turns, over bridges down to Skellig Beach in St Finian’s Bay near Ballinskelligs. Wet and windy we had a look at the beach the sign warned people of strong currents and there were people in the water must be mad.
Still in mountainous area winding our way round the coast would be lovely if we could see the views of the ocean but then it might be scary driving on the cliffs edge. Still foggy as we drive out of the mountainous terrain through farmland till we stopped at Ballinskelligs Beach to once again get wet to try and enjoy the views of the beach and McCarthy’s Castle on the distant hill. If it was fine we would have walked to the castle.
R567 is narrow for two cars lined with thick growth of trees glimpse of the marshland very poor soil, cattle and sheep grazing, some farms and homes by road as we drive round Ballinskelligs Bay with views here and there. Glad to be back on the Ring of Kerry but the road is very bumpy needs maintaining, views of Inny River with the usual farmland, marshes, till the colourful waterfront village of Waterville. Lough Currane is renowned for its salmon and trout fishing people come from far and wide to fish on this famous river but we are damp enough and decided to keep on driving.
Back into the mountainous terrain again climbing through the Coomakeesta Pass round the side of Cahernageeha Mountain couldn’t see a thing through the fog very dangerous driving for Richard. Short break at Caherdaniel beautiful views of the coastline with Wave Crest Caravan Park right on the shoreline could have stayed here but wanted to move on. The countryside from Castlecove to Sneem in parts is rocky marshlands a bit barren.
Decided to call it a day as it was getting late saw a sign before Sneem to Gleesk Pier thought it would be a good place to wild camp for the night by the ocean. Long nasty drive on a narrow track that seemed to go for miles but the end result was a quiet natural little harbour in a cove. Very remote but amazing how many cars come down and people go for walks on the rocky coastline. One farmer bought his cows down to graze as his land is too soggy and a young French lass travelling by herself parked next to us for the night.
2025-05-22