A flight over Paradise
Thursday, August 25, 2016
Okavango Delta, Botswana
Kwetsani - Our Bucket List Destination
The Okavango Delta is the largest inland delta system in the world and covers an area of 15000 km2 filled with water channels, lagoons, swamps and Islands and is a wetland paradise located deep within the arid Botswana & Kalahari Desert . We have all seen excerpts of the Delta and its animals on TV but nothing can prepare you for the magnitude of open space and the incredible diversity of desert, water and swamp vistas that one can only experience from the air!!
How and why was this particular place a bucket list item? A discussion around the fireside last Sept in the arid Kalahari with Carol & Peter who had a family contact at Wilderness Safaris and bobs your uncle - we made our bucket list adventure happen!
Adrenaline was pumping in our veins when we boarded the 16 seater Cessna Grand Caravan light aircraft mid morning on 25 August at Maun Airport - to say we were excited was an understatement. Flying in small aircraft has always turned my stomach in a knot but our very experienced Wilderness Air pilot laid to rest our fears and our take off was as smooth as a baby's bum!!
Terry got to sit next to the Pilot and his fear of heights dissipated with all the happenings of the cockpit and he was in his element with the best view in the plane .To look down from our cruising altitude of 5000 ft and see the vast waterways and never-ending horizon of the magnificent Okavango Delta in bright sunshine with shimmering landscapes of swamps and Islands is something we four will never forget and the vision will be embedded in our memories for prosperity. We are still grinning like cats who got all the cream! The area where Kwetsani is located in the Jao Reserve covers some 66 000 hectares North West of the Okavango, below the Panhandle and is frequented by water loving animals like elephants, lechwe, hippo and crocodiles and land based animals like lion, cheetah, wild dog, hyena, buffalo and kudu to name but a few of the species? The water of the Delta is so clear you can see the white sands of the Kalahari desert at the base of the papyrus and reed beds which help to filter the water. This is one of the most incredible sanctuaries in Africa with a delicate ecosystem crammed with fauna, flora and wildlife.
Our accommodation was luxurious to say the least and a very sofisticated tent, wood and glass combination created on a raised platform of wooden decks and connected walkways, nestled among the trees with superb furnishings and a gigantic bed, made our stay immensely pleasurable for three glorious nights and days . Just to sit on the private deck of one's verandah overlooking the vast landscape with warthog, impala, elephants and lechwe and of course the ever chancing Baboons and bird life in the trees above, is enough to make you forget there is another living world out there!!
Meshack, our game and boat cum fishing guide for 3 days, was fabulous, had a great sense of humour, was very knowledgeable about all wildlife and between he and Carol, they named every conceivable bird that flew in our midst! Meshack was never without the famous bush cool box that housed our G&T's and snacks and game viewing on Hunda Island in early mornings took on a new meaning with Kwetsani stock of hot water bottles, blanket-lined khaki ponchos and a very comfortable Land Rover Defender. We had a close up sighting of 2 lionesses lazing in a shady spot and astonishingly some 5 kms further down the track we found their 5 furry cubs had been left to their own devices in a thicket to feed on a carcass of zebra, killed earlier by the females . Two male lions roam this area but were nowhere to be found, nor were we able to spot any wild dogs or cheetah. An unusual sighting was hundreds of African Open Bill Storks who were chilling on the banks of the swamp together with our favorite herds of Ellie's who were knee deep in the river, quenching their thirst.
Fishing on the Okavango in shallow waters with reed and papyrus grasses lining the waters edge was a challenge and Peter had the only success on the day with two smallish tigers and Lizzie caught a fair sized barbel but he beat a hasty retreat as we were going to net him so it saved Terry the hassle of getting the hook out his ugly mouth. Peter, the seasoned fisherman, somehow managed to break a fishing rod in half while trying to cast from the boat so for his misdemeanor he earned the Mampara trophy on this leg of our bush jol! Any guesses what Terry left behind at Kwetsani?
Another first for us was being poled down the narrow channels on a mokoro and a unique experience to see close up bird life and learn from the vast knowledge of our mokoro guides who understand the Eco system of the fauna and flora of the Delta .
What was the highlight of our Okavango Adventure you might ask? Well we could not really say it was the amazing flight or our fantastic game guide Meshack but as we left the Lodge with bags packed and hoping for a last gasp game drive as we headed for the air strip, our vehicles radio crackled into life and the word " Ingwe " came across loud and clear! For those who are not familiar with this word, it means 'cheetah' in the local dialect.
Meshack did a slight detour and we urged him to do some low flying over water filled tracks and thick sand and finally we crept up slowly to witness two 8 month old cheetah cubs playing hide and seek in the bushes and then bolting out into the open veld. We were told by another game guide that mother cheetah was very shy and was hiding in the bushes 500m away while her errant Cubs were playfully teasing each other. For half an hour we were so privileged to watch these two rough and tumbling without a care in the world. This was definitely the highlight of our game viewing in the Delta . Meshack you went the extra mile and provided us with a 'once in a lifetime' sighting of these very cute but skittish & shy cats.
Standing in a hide with coffee in hand overlooking the vast plains of the unspoilt and beautiful Okavango Delta one can see why tourists from around the world flock to experience the all inclusive fly-in package of private luxury concession camps dotted around the Delta. Thank you Kwetsani - you deserve the accolade of being the best lodge in the Jao Concession for the last 4 years.
How wonderful to end our stay with another fabulous flight over the Delta getting to touch down at a different bush air strip of Mombo to exchange some guests and then take off effortlessly into another kaleidoscope of such diverse terrain with herds of animals like dinky toys on a patchwork quilt.
The big question looming on our minds as we landed back in Maun was, how did our well stocked freezers and fridges cope with being left unattended but connected to exterior power in the backyard of Wilderness Safaris' parking lot?
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2025-02-11
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Jane Mallett
2016-08-30
Kwetsani sounds like heaven on earth!
5501275099085
2016-08-31
Hey Lizzie, I thought Ingwe was leopard. And then I saw your pictures of the clubs playing - yes they are leopards - not cheetah. I love your posts keep it up. Have a G&T for us. We are off to the Caprivi next week to photo the Carmine Bee-Eaters.
Cliff Kelly
2016-08-31
Hi to the travelling Kellys. Lovely reading. All well. Have a grand day filled with African beauty and no obnoxious Vaalie campers!!
roddelany
2016-08-31
How exciting those days were. So pleased your dreams were realized. Continue to enjoy. Xx
lizkelly
2016-08-31
Sorry anerror in my blog - Ingwe was meant to be leopard and not cheetah - two cub leopards replaces two cub cheetahs.
Anne Matthews
2016-09-01
Hi Liz - enjoy the trip and keep up the commentary! Very interesting and so well written. We are up in that area in October & so looking forward to it.
Ingrid and Leish
2016-09-04
Kwetsani is my kind of 'camping' - looks stunning!
liz kelly
2016-09-13
Sorry a typing error on my blog : "Ingwe" means leopard NOT cheetah - dont know where that word popped up from!! So picture should read "2 leopard cubs at play"