Ladies and gentlemen, September 11th is a day to remember.

Today, I did not enter a single McDonald's establishment .

I woke at about 8:30, feeling vaguely like Betty Boop in the cartoon where she tries to escape the noise of the city. There were horns and hammers and drills and chimes and bells and squeaks and shouts and whistles and many, many more interesting substitutes for an alarm clock. However, I had such a wonderful sleep, that I quite enjoyed the Big City sensation, and spent a few pleasant minutes at my window, marvelling at the amount of styrofoam these people can fit on the back of a bicycle.

I made the resolution early on that I was going to have 3 square meals today. It's easier to do in Shanghai, because there's a proliferation of western chains that don't fry everything they serve. I had a muffin, a fruit cup and a coffee in Starbucks and decided that I was going to see the Bund, whether they wanted me to or not. I've got the Shanghai subway system down now (though I still prefer Beijing's awesomality), and I knew exactly where I was going. Unfortunately, like everywhere else in this thrice damned town, Lujiazui overground was all dug up. I took a few photos of the Oriental Pearl and picked a direction to walk, hoping it would lead me to the Jinmao Tower.

Happily, it did! There wasn't much to see along the way but boarding, but once you turned a particular bend, there was the third tallest building in China . And beside it was the tallest. Ha ha! The Shanghai World Financial Centre passed the Jinmao in 2007 (and the second tallest is in Nanjing), but you can go up to the 88th floor of the Jinmao, so off I went. There were two oul' fellas waiting for the lift when I came along with my Y88 ticket, but I sparked something and the guard took the three of us up by ourselves. The lift went at 9m/s, so we were up in no time, our faces stretched into gapes from the g-forces. There wasn't much up there but the view, really. It was funny to see the Oriental Pearl look so small. I did a lap, had my picture taken by a stranger, and left again.

In the basement, there was a nice looking food court with no brand names and classy looking customers, so I decided that I was brave enough to chance real Chinese food again. I went to the 'Noodles' counter (brandishing an English menu I'd swiped from a table along the way) and demanded noodles, pork and some bean stuff. It all came together in a bowl, as I'd expected, but also without a fork and knife, which I hadn't expected . I sat down and pondered the situation for a moment, before deciding that I don't really have enough clothes with me to justify splashing soup all over what I have on today. After some difficulty (and some confusing hand gestures), I procured the correct utensils, and managed to eat most of my noodles like spaghetti. I decided against the pork on sight, and the beans after the first couple.

Two (mostly) square meals down, I was ready for something else. Having come this far, I decided it wouldn't do to ignore the Oriental Pearl, which I really love looking at. I purchased the most expensive ticket (figuring I only have to do it once ever, then) and followed the signs into the main building. They've taken security in there to airport level, and my bottle of Evian had to go (but I'd paid Y20 for it in Starbucks in an effort to completely avoid McDonald's today, and I wasn't letting it go to waste, so I drank it in front of the guard). Then we queued for a while before whooshing up to the almost top in lift 2 (but only at 7m/s - what a let down). It was nice, nothing spectacular, but you got a much better view of the Jinmao and Financial Centre from here. There was a glass floor one level down, and I liked that, since you could see the lower sphere and the Bund through it. Because I had a VIP ticket, I also got to go up to the Space Module, which is just a more exclusive, and slightly higher version of the regular top . Also, Mary McAleese's signature is up there. Bet you didn't know that.

I also got to go to the 90m level (they don't have floors, just meters, even in the lift), which was called Science Fiction City - doesn't that sound amazing?! - but was really just flashing lights, purple glass and arcade games. To my own surprise, I found a lower level and an outdoor balcony circling the sphere (there's a phrase you don't use often. Is it a double positive?) AND NO ONE ELSE WAS THERE. I was the only one. I was in shock. On my own in Shanghai's most famous building! I celebrated by stretching my neck and shoulders in ways that would make polite company stare. They're really sore from my overstuffed bag.

I got a lift down in the glass elevator (hahaha, me so clever!), but there's not much to see since all the concrete legs are in the way. Thinking I was nearly done, I followed the general flow of people through a door to a small museum full of vintage cars . I'd forgotten that my ticket included that too, so I took my time admiring them before heading "Please to upstairs first". There were scarily realistic waxwork Chinese in various poses of historical meaning ("Farmers Fun" was one, "Butter Churning" was another - but there was a wax child in the churn, so I'm not sure what they were talking about really). And it went on. And on. And on. Shanghai has a long history. I was so tired by 1890 that I wanted to fling the little mannequins through the wall and crawl out after them, but there was much more to see yet.

Somehow I made it through teahouses and terrible foreign concessions and banks and model houses and found the real exit. It's cleverly disguised in the back of a shop, so it's hard to leave without purchasing something other than your ticket. I imagine it's also difficult to get around the tower without a ticket that lets you in everywhere. I'm not even sure I saw everything I paid for, but I'd already spent the guts of three hours there and I was ready for more food . I took a small detour from the subway to try to see the Huangpu River from the side I was on, but it was very difficult. It's all blocked by posh restaurants that only open in the evening.

I took Danny's (from yesterday) advice and went to California Pizza Kitchen (which was in an enormous construction also housing Toni and Guy and the Ritz Carlton, among others). They spoke English and had a customer base composed entirely of white people. I ordered far too much, took much too long to eat it and extended my stomach beyond its current capacity. But it was GOOD. And I had iced tea for a change, not Sprite (which is the only drink I know in Chinese. Coke is Coke, but I hate the rotting sensation my teeth get when I drink that). I knew there was a station nearer to CPK than Nanjing West, so I aimed for that and hoped for the best. I was now carrying my shoulder bag, more Marks & Spencers supplies AND my pizza leftovers, and it took a loooooong time to get the stop (called Temple something - but I saw no temple) .

It was starting to get dark then, so decided I that since I was this far, I might as well try to see the skyline and Nanjing road at night. I got off at Nanjing East (which is quite a ways from Nanjing West, let me tell you). I dropped my expensive leftovers in a bin (I won't eat cold pizza and I'm afraid it'll attract critters) and did my best to get a skyline picture without boarding, wires, buses or hawkers. There's no river in it, but you'd know it was Shanghai. I took more photos on Nanjing on the way back, and managed to grab a seat on the subway for the six stops before my hostel. The way to deal with Chinese queues is to think "I'll never get it if I don't go now" then push and shove and stand closest to the front and side. It's scientific fact that you get into doors and such things faster if you enter from the side, and I can attest to this from my extensive subway usage in the last few days.

I'll attempt to upload pictures next, and then I'm off to another Marks and Spencers party. And I must scratch my leg. What a coincidence that on my first night in a hostel, I also get my first insect bite. Eh?

(edit: can't upload pictures here, :( sorry.)