We spent a full 13 hour day at Versailles today, including travel time. When we entered the Metro at 8:30 am we thought we'd buy tickets for both metro and RER (train) and zip on our way. As has happened more than once, our plan was derailed when no one was at the window. Back out the Metro to the Tabac where we bought tickets, figured out our route and back into the Metro and on our way. About 10:30 we reached the Versailles station, stopped at Starbucks for coffee and muffins and finally made it to the Chateau. It truly is impressive with massive gold gates. The Chateau itself literally drips with shiny gold trim around the windows, gilding the roof edges, and on all the decorative details. It was a clear sunny day, so the building sparkled.

We entered the chateau's huge cobblestoned courtyard and were put off by the equally huge crowds who arrived on tour busses and lined up to enter in groups . Taking Rick Steve's advice, we bypassed the touring crowds and went directly to view the gardens, walk to the Grand and Petite Trianons and the little village Marie Antoinette created. The gardens are huge, miles of lawns, sculptured shrubs, fountains, paths and statuary. We walked about 2 miles to the Grand Trianon and toured the rooms there--very grand, indeed. As we walked we noticed the gardens, all beautifully maintained, gradually changed from very formal to more casual and natural style. Outside the Grand Trianon were grassy fields dotted with wildflowers and huge trees. We had a bite of lunch, with beer and wine, of course, sitting on the grass in the shade of a large tree. It did feel a little like a country picnic.

Marie Antoinette's little farm resembled an idyllic French country village with a cluster of half of dozen rustic buildings set amidst kitchen gardens, flower gardens, fields and a stream and pond. There was even a field of daisies in bloom . It was a beautiful place to just relax and enjoy the day.  We then walked the 2 or so miles back to the chateau and the crowds had thinned so we could tour the chateau and really see the magnificent rooms.

Versailles chateau is most famous for its Hall of Mirrors, a technological feat in 18th century Europe. Seventeen huge floor to ceiling arched mirrors line one wall of a huge rectangular room, probably the size of a football field (at least it seemed about that big to me). Opposite each mirror is a floor to ceiling glass window that overlooks the gardens so the light from the windows is reflected in the mirrors. Adding to the light reflection is the light and sparkling crystals from dozens of chandeliers, probably 30 or so, but I didn't count them. It really is a fantastic room. It's where Louis IVX sat in his throne at one end to receive foreign dignitaries who were no doubt as impressed as we were with the wealth of France at the time.  

The antechambers leading into the Hall of Mirrors were also fantastically adorned, each with frescoed ceilings painted in the style of the Romans showing gods, goddesses and lots of floating cherubs and flowing fabric that barely covered the figures portrayed . Lots of portraits filled every wall, wall-sized and massive, depicting the royal family members in formal postures. Elaborate carved paneling and gold trim covered every surface not already gilded or painted with Roman figures. We saw receiving rooms, bedrooms with ornate canopied beds, and reception rooms where kings and queens lived their very public lives. For example, in one room, the king and queen and their children ate dinner every night at 10 pm in public, observed by members of the royal court and whoever else was on hand.  Louis XIV felt he was a public figure and his duty was to allow his court to observe everything he did. I think he secretly wanted to be an actor and just liked the admiration of others.  

We stopped at a café for wine and bruschetta before heading home on the train, tired but happy. It was really a full day of French history, kings, queens and their extravagant lifestyles.