Michael awoke before his 5am alarm went off, and crept out for his morning run. Nola and Gretl, whose cabin was almost directly across the road from ours, appeared at our door at about 7am. We enjoyed breakfast outdoors again, and set off for Nitmiluk Gorge at 8:12, arriving at the visitors’ centre just over 30 minutes later.
A 400m walk took us down to the water’s edge where we boarded the boat for cruising through the first gorge. Despite being almost last to board, the front seats were still vacant — and that’s just where I wanted to sit. Covered in sunscreen and with the added protection of my umbrella, we were set to go.
My photos will speak for themselves — the scenery was magnificent. I was disappointed that the only cruise operating was the 2-hour (2 gorge) tour, as I have memories of even more spectacular views in one of the narrower gorges further upstream. However, it was probably just the right length of time for Nola.
After the cruise, we returned to our accommodation for a rest and a light lunch.
Gretl, Nola and I then drove to the TopDidj Centre for a ‘Cultural Experience’, dropping Michael off in town on the way.
We joined a family of four for the ‘Cultural Experience’ which was conducted by Manuel, an aboriginal man in his 50s (born some time between 1963 and 1966). Manuel played us the didgeridoo and tapping sticks, and then talked a little about his life growing up in Arnhem Land. At one stage, Nola interrupted the session to tell Manuel that she was wearing shoes and that they were a little bit tight for her! She was later offered a crate of toys to keep her busy.
Manuel then taught us how to paint in the style of his tribe, using acrylic paints in lieu of traditional paints made from ochre and other natural products. We were each given a small piece of canvas on which we were to first paint an outline in black paint of whatever object we wished to paint. Fortunately, Manuel had a range of paintings on display that we were able to copy. The next stage of the procedure involved using a brush made from a reed. We had to lay about ¾ of the long thin strands on to the canvas and then drag it along the canvas to produce a fine line or curve. One dip in the paint — one line. The fiddliest part was using this technique to do cross-hatching. And finally, we were able to use a brush to touch up our paintings. Whilst my bird doesn’t look much like an emu, I was very pleased with the my cross-hatching!
Manuel then invited the older children to assist him to start a fire using two fire sticks.
Once a fire had been lit, the aborigines used to keep it going, carrying it with them as they moved on to new campsites.
The final activity was spear throwing. Manuel first demonstrated how to throw the spear, impressively striking the cardboard kangaroo cut-out (that was positioned a fair distance away) in the neck. We each had a couple of throws — Gretl and I would have successfully scared the kangaroo away, had it been a real one!
As we left, Nola again fed the young, hand-reared wallaby that had greeted us when we first arrived. It had been an interesting and enjoyable afternoon. (Later that evening, we watched on YouTube an episode of Australian Story that features Manuel. Twelve years ago, Manuel’s life was saved by a doctor who only weeks later almost lost his own life in a car accident. ‘Call The Doctor’ is the name of the particular episode — it’s interesting to hear how each man influenced the other’s recovery and subsequent direction in life. Manuel, whose oesophagus had burst due to excessive drinking, has been sober for 12 years.
)
Back at the cabin, we agreed we were all too tired to go for another swim in the hot springs, but went for a walk in the same direction, hoping to buy hamburgers from a pop-up van that is apparently usually operating nearby. Sadly, it wasn’t there, and so Michael and I walked back to the cabins and drove in to Woolworths to buy supplies to make our own burgers whilst Gretl and Nola stayed to play on the giant turtle play equipment. Gretl later reported that Nola had befriended the children who had turned up to play, and ended up being invited to join them as they all held hands with the adult leaders accompanying them and started to sing, ‘Jesus loves the little children’. It turns out they were from a local camp for Jehovah’s Witnesses.
After devouring our delicious home-made hamburgers, we called it a day. It had been a long and busy one.
Tom Allen
2020-08-26
These are fantastic images and memories Mel. Given my family links to central Australia, I’m feeeling both ashamed and envious of your tour. Although still very much enjoying it from the back of your air conditioned bus, actually coach. I really appreciated the upgrade for this trip!
Ian
2020-08-26
Hi Debbie. I have missed an earlier "Comments" record, which I shall rectify before the trip ends. In the meantime, I am excited to learn of your holiday plans for next Christmas time, exploring parts of the Northern Territory and Western Australia.
Debbie
2020-08-27
Actually going to NT and WA this time next year, Uncle Ian. Too wet and hot I think at Christmas time! Really enjoying M&M’s trip, picking up a few tips for places to visit. We’re currently touring around Eyre Peninsula, enjoying Pt Lincoln and onto Streaky Bay tomorrow.
melandmic
2020-08-29
Glad to hear you are comfortable in the back of the coach, Tom! I hope you do manage to bring your family up this way some time in the not-too-distant future. Glad to see that Debbie & Dad have bumped into each other somewhere along the way. :-)