Day 227
Day totals: 16 hrs, 17 kms
I have one more day hike that I absolutely must do: I must connect my Marrakech/Ourika Superhike to my Imlil/Toubkal hike--thus being able to say I hiked from Marrakech to Toubkal
... and across the Alps. I'm on a tight schedule so I'll need to do this in one day: take the 3 hour train from Casablanca to Marrakech... collective taxi to Imlil... hike back to Tahannaoute... back to Marrakech... Casablanca... And be back at work the next day. Challenging, but doable.
And then I have a crazy idea. Several times I've had 1 or 2 colleagues join me for a day hike resently and I've always enjoyed the experience--as have they. Several other people have expressed interest in joining me for a hike but it's never worked out. This might be the last chance for me to share a parkbenching hike experience with my friends here in Morocco.
So... why not just post an "open invitation" on Facebook and see who shows up? In an impulse I decide to give it a try.
Soon I get a couple responses from my former students. They ask me if THEY can invite some friends too! This might get a bit complicated
. This is summertime so it could be really hot. I imagine trudging along the road past boring scenery in suffocating heat with a bunch of very unhappy people that are really can't appreciate why it's so important to WALK from Imlil to Tahanoute! This is going to be a new challenge for me. I'm used to motivating myself to do something challenging... but to lead and motivate other people, that's kind of outside of my comfort zone.
But let's give it a shot.
And so I tell Chouaib, Omar and Mohammed that yes, they can invite whoever they want and give them some instructions as to what to bring. Then I show up at the Casablanca train station half expecting that nobody will show up...
But they do... in twos and threes... until 9 people show up--including 3 girls! Actually the father of two of the girls brought them--he wanted to make sure something fishy wasn't going on here... pretty cool dad! Not very many Moroccan dads would get up at 4 in the morning to drop off their daughter at the train station to go on a hiking trip!
We all introduce ourselves, then climb aboard the train and try to get some sleep on the 3 hour ride to Marrakech
. Once in Marrakech--after taking our first group photo in front of the beautiful new station, the logistical challenges begin. First, how do you transport 10 people from the train station to the collective taxi station downtown? I remind myself that it's not about what I would normally do, it's about what I think would be the most practical way for the group to get there. We decide to negotiate with a guy who has a van who can carry a maximum of 7 people--the other three go by taxi, where we meet up near Jma Fnaa.
So far so good. Next assignment: everybody needs to eat a good breakfast. Normally I'd just go for a stand up breakfast of mnsimmen and tea, or grab a quick omelette in a dairy shop. No, I remind myself, let's think of the best interest of the group... We walk around a bit until we find a sit down eatery that has enough chairs.
"I brought you this group--so my breakfast should be free!" I joke with the waiter, who seems quite confused seeing a foreigner tourist guide bringing a bunch of Moroccans to his restaurant!
Next assignment: take a collective taxi to Imlil, where we'll start our hike
. These taxis are only allowed to carry 6 people. There's 10 of us, so I suggest that we hire two taxis, and just pay for the extra seat, rather than wait for 2 more customers. Everyone agrees... And we're off
"How many of you guys have been on a hike before?" I ask. Everybody shakes their heads. Never?! Nope. Well... that means that this is going to be a really good experience, or a really bad experience.
Hiking--the idea of walking through the countryside is actually a pretty new concept here in Morocco. Typically Moroccans like to drive or ride to a place--the beach or a river... and just sit and relax. Walking? That's for people who live in remote areas who don't have cars or public transportation. And they're definitely not doing it for fun.
Starting our Hike
And so we reach Imlil, stock up on supplies and begin our hike. Everybody is in good spirits and eager to enjoy the discoveries along the way--and there are plenty
. We find a nice little waterfall for starters... Then after following the road for a bit, I suggest we try to walk along the river. Sara, one of the more adventurous ones of the group suggests that we follow a path along the hillside through some terraces and orchards. Works for a while and then suddenly... a steep drop.
This is where my leadership skills are put to the test. If I were alone, I'd climb down the cliff. But there's 10 of us, and the risk of someone getting hurt is pretty high.
Suddenly I have flashbacks of when I was 13 years old, hiking with Pablo in the mountains of central Mexico. My pet crow flow down to the bottom of a canyon, and I suggested that we look for a way down to follow it. Pablo went first... fell down the cliff, breaking his arm, nose and both his pelvis bones...
Ever since then I've been reluctant to encourage others to join me in my adventures. It's an awful feeling to realize that you were the cause of someone else getting seriously hurt
.
And now it's deja vu all over again. This time I make the right choice: we'll turn around and find a safer way to get down. I've passed the test.
The Swimming Holes and the suspension bridge
No need to rush things--it's all about enjoying the experience. We pause to play some music... the a bit further, we find a nice swimming hole at the base of a boulder--everyone except two of the girls jumps in for a very refreshing swim... A bit further down, there's another waterfall--actually it's just an irrigation canal overflowing far above--a lot of fun to shower under nonetheless... Then another swimming hole that's big enough to actually swim in... we can't resist the temptation to jump in the water once again...
Walking also makes for some good conversation. About studying abroad (several of them plan to continue their studies in France), about hopes and dreams for the future
... about working in Morocco vs in another country... A very ambitious group of young people--quite inspiring to be around.
And as the hours stretch on and sun glares down, nobody complains, nobody's spirit seems to be dampened. On the contrary--several of them talk about picking up this new "hiking" hobby...
And finally, a nice adventure to top it all off: a long, rickety suspension bridge across a wide stretch of rocky streambed. Basically the bridge is 2 cables with random boards across them and chicken wire underneath to sort of catch you if the boards break--looks fun, and not really dangerous... So we've all got to try it out.
While the others are slowly making their way across the bridge, Sara says she wants to climb to the top of the mountain. Not something the rest of the group seems interested in, but I hate to dampen her enthusiasm, so I agree to hike with her for a ways.
.. Then say we'd better head on back down to the group. Shucks... I hate to make a person with an adventurous spirit turn back...
And then, finally we reach Asni, where everybody poses proudly next to the sign that says "17 kms to Imlil"
Asni is actually only the halfway point. It's still a long ways to get to Tahannaout where I can connect Marrakech and Toubkal with a trail of footprints... and despite the heat, most of the group seems to want to keep going.
Once again, my leadership skills are put to the test. I really, really want to reach Tahanaoute and finish my Superhike. But common sense tells me that we'd better stop here. Even if were were to keep going at a steady pace, we won't arrive to Tahannouat until nighttime--and there's little chance of finding public transportation anywhere in between--especially not for 10 people! And I have a history of ruining wonderful hikes by dragging them out more than I should--and this has been a wonderful hike today
.
And so... Finish my Superhike? Mission Unaccomplished. Prove that I can lead a group of people on a hike and everybody stays safe and has a good time? Mission Accomplished.
And quite frankly, right now, this Mission feels so much more important. It's not just about me and my little Superhike project... it's about sharing a lifestyle and a way of looking at the world with others... enjoying the experience together.
So we pack into a van and head back to Marrakech... enjoy a leisurely supper in Jmaa Fna square... then race back to catch to last train to Casablanca...
It's been my favorite hiking day in a long time...
Thanks Omar, Mohamed, Chouaib, Mohamed, Moahcine, Moahcine, Youssef, Sara and Asmaa (?) for being the best hiking company I've enjoyed in a long time...
1530. Organizing my first Group Hike
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Tinitine, Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, Morocco
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