We left Anna Plains a little before nine. We were ready to roll before 8.30am, but
wanted to catch up with David and Helen before we left. Helen was getting ready for a day trip to
Broome, as a couple of the visitors were flying back to Perth today. Some of the others are flying back on
Thursday, including Saus and the two children.
There will be a couple of trips to Broome this week, which is just 260
kms away.
Once again we had a mix up which didn't keep us travelling together! This
time it was where the morning tea stop was to be. The women had decided the night before that the Stanley Rest area was a reasonable option, but the leaders can't have remembered. I sure hope we can get something better
worked out with this group of three travelling together!
Lunch was at the Roebuck Plains Roadhouse and we decided on a
healthy lamb and mint pie and a bucket of chips! We have been away for four weeks today and
the walking shoes have not been on too many times!
Onward we travelled to Derby. There has been lots of flooding and the Great Northern Highway has been considerably damaged. There
were crews repairing the road and we travelled a great deal of the
trip to Willare Bridge Roadhouse at 80kms.
There was one particular spot where there was still lots of water beside
the road. I guess this is all due to the
near record rains in Broome during February.
We stopped at Willare Bridge Roadhouse for an icecream and a
look around. I will definitely need to
walk the two and a half kms out to the Derby Wharf from the Entrance Caravan Park! About halfway between Roebuck Plains
Roadhouse and Willare Bridge was the Kimberley Meatworks, initiated by the
Burton Family who also have a property at Naraling and trade as Yeeda Pastoral
Company. Their meat is available in Geraldton and there were also big packs of Yeeta beef
available at Willare Bridge Roadhouse.
John and I had a laugh as we were walking around taking some
snaps. John said a photo of a man made
from scrap metal was a bit rusty and in surprise I replied “Is that what you
are calling him John….Slim Dusty”! Must
be missing my line dancing! I did have
my hearing aids in too!
When booking into the Entrance CP at about 3.00pm, we asked where
we could wash the caravan and were given directions back to a wash down
business we had actually spotted on the way into town.
It was ideal! The owner Paul came
down to check us out. He was impressed
with the way Pete had backed the caravan.
We introduced ourselves and of course made a comment about the three
‘P’s’! It should have been $20 for half
an hour and when we paid Paul he said “Take as long as you like guys”. Nice fella.
So the caravan got a good wash and the car as well. Just the right pressure too Pete
reckoned. It was a typical shed setup,
but we had the pressure sprayer, a ladder, broom, sponges and detergent, so we couldn’t ask for
more!
Once we had setup at the CP, Peter and John went off to find
Woolworths and do a bit of shopping.
Peter needed beer more than we needed foodstuff! We've been 9 days since we left Port Hedland! Just as they were about to head off, Dorothy
found Terry and Marilyn Stokes only a few vans from us. So we had a drink with them later and caught
up with their travels. It got too cold
for them in NSW, so they decided to head north. Joanne, Wayne and Sienna are
travelling the Gibb River Road at the moment and will be back in Derby by the weekend. So
they are waiting to see them before heading to Broome for a few
days. Terry thought they might not be
back until Saturday. But apparently they
were to be back on Thursday, so we missed them by just a day. If we had known we possibly may have stayed
the extra day or two to catch up. But
that is the way it goes. We had booked our
tour for Giekie Gorge on Wednesday and the only day we could get to do the
Sunset Cruise was Thursday. The next available date was not until Monday. Apparently there is a lack of cruises over
the weekend due to Naidoc Week and culture events being held in the National Park.
Derby was a far as we had planned when Peter did the bookings way back. So
on Wednesday we needed to make time to plan where to next. We were up early to get a washing machine
at the laundry. I will always remember our APT tour leader in Canada saying "When you are travelling it's all about the laundry"! The sheets and towels needed a wash. I do all the other washing in the small front loader in the van. We spent the morning sprucing up the van and car after their pressure clean the day before. Then a bit more shopping at Woolies. Time to stock the freezer with a bit more
meat.
Margaret was having trouble with her phone and Dennis wanted
Peter to look at his fridge. Eventually I was able to point Margaret in the right direction and suggested she would be better to use her gmail account. I’m not that savvy with my own iPhone, so
even less with another make, but between us we got it sorted and did an email
test. Thank goodness Jenny Mac has
managed to teach me something!
By 3.00pm Pete had done all his odd jobs and we were ready
to do the Derby touristy bits. The Norval
Art Centre was our first stop. It was
well worth a visit. Mark and Mary Norval
were posted to Derby as school teachers in 1981 and have been here ever
since. Mark enjoyed the challenge of
working with the aboriginal community, formed a football team that he coached
and played in until he was in his forties, and saw the benefits and potential to
encourage the indigenous with their art skills.
There was a 15 minute video that you were invited to watch, which told
the story of Mark and Mary’s life in Derby.
Mark suffered from depression in 2010 and spent 18 months in a Perth
Clinic. Mark spoke of the reason he was in a
dark place. It was the number of juvenile suicides in the Derby region. Since his recovery he has set about
expressing himself in his artwork and encouraging aboriginal artists to do the
same. Many of the artists paint at the gallery. Mark also travels to the communities on the
Gibb River Road, holding workshops and encouraging them to pursue their art talents. Mark also taught and has been involved in
the establishment of the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre, which we visited the last time we were in Derby in 2011.
We went out to the Boab Prison tree and the long trough
again. I had been to the tree in about
2008 when I was in Derby on CWA business, but I do not have any digital
photos. And I need to record the story of course! The area is now referred to as the 'Derby Commonage'.
Prisoners and aboriginal people who were kidnapped from the West Kimberley were put in chains and marched to this Boab tree and held prisoner while they waited for a boat. They came from as far away as Fitzroy Crossing and Christmas Creek. They generally walked 24 to 48 kilometres per day. The long concrete trough is nearby and is 120 metres long. It is said to be the longest in the southern hemisphere and was built for 581 pounds in 1916/17. The trough handled 500 bullocks at one time without running dry. It was named Myalls Well after the man that sank it. The name was later transferred to the bore. Today water is pumped to the trough by a windmill.
Then it was out to the wharf. Peter had taken John and Dorothy out to the
wharf in the morning to see the tide much higher than it was at 4.30pm. Low tide is at 7.00pm tonight and high tide
something like 1.00am The difference in
high and low tide in Derby is something to be witnessed and part of our reason
for visiting this trip. Derby rates number eight the nine largest macrotidal systems globally. The largest tide in King Sound in Australia (being Derby) is 11.5 metres. The Bay of Fundy in Canada is number one with a 16 metre tide.
The first Wharf built in Derby was in 1894. It was a wooden T-shaped structure located at the northern end of the present steel and concrete jetty. It was linked to the town of Derby by a horse drawn tramway, crossing the mud flats via a causeway where the present day road is located. Wool and pearl shell were the major exports in the early days. In 1964 when the new jetty was built, live cattle were exported and fuel, oil and provisions were the main imports. The last passenger ship visited Derby in 1973. During the 1990'a barges were used to export lead and zinc concentrates from the Cadjebut Mine at Fitzroy Crossing.
Viewing a Derby sunset from the wharf area is also something
very spectacular and we decided to put some sandfly repellent on and stay for
the sunset. We ordered take away fish
and chips for $12.50, with a pick up time of 5.30pm. It worked perfectly and the sunset was beautiful. There is a very popular Cafe and Restaurant at the jetty.
When we went back to the car
to get the sandfly cream on, this fabulously painted four wheel drive bus was
parked beside us and the passengers were all getting out with their chairs. The tour operator had the esky and no doubt
the nibbles. You can see the Iconic Tour
group all sitting on the edge of the wharf, to the left of my sunset
photos. A sunset at Derby wharf
obviously sits well as an attraction for Iconic Tours based in SA.
We have only had one visit to Derby in the caravan and that
was in 2011 when we had the Billabong Caravan.
I have been a couple of times and stayed in the CWA Derby West Kimberley
Air Cottage. One of the times was with
Peter when we hired a car in Broome and brought the Kimberley Divisional
President Kath Munroe out for the Kimberley Division Annual meeting. The cottage is still well maintained in
Clarendon Street and there was a sign up at the CP, advertising the markets
that are held there on Saturdays.
As our visit to Derby was short, for my own benefit I am going
to record a little from our 2011 visit.
We left the caravan on the site at the park and with the roof top tent we spent three days on the Gibb River Road. When we returned the caravan was full of ants. They had found a hose to climb up and decided the clothing in Peter's wardrobe was the place to be! Peter decided there was a need to replace a battery in the caravan and it had to be ordered. That meant hanging
around until the transport came in around noon. So with the morning to fill in we visited the Wharfinger Museum.
The Wharfinger House Museum is divided into three sections containing the history of the wharf, telecommunications and aviation in Derby. A "Wharfinger" is a person who owns or has control of the Wharf. The House is a fine example of the prefabricated wooden housing of the late 1920's and 30's, well adapted for living in a tropical climate without the benefits of air-conditioning.
Then we went out to the park and walked around the grassed
area under the boab trees. It was here
that a young girl asked us to buy a carved boab nut. Peter bargained with her and we purchased it
for $20.00. With the nut purchased she
was up the boab tree in a flash to pick another and drop it to her little
brother down below. Then it was taken to
the older aboriginal women sitting on the grass to do the
carving. The woman was happy for us to
take photos and soon after we left them they packed up and went home. We commented to each other at the time, just what
the $20 would have been used for!
Hopefully some healthy food, not beer or pies! There was a Mrs Mac’s pie sitting on the
grass next to the woman.
Peter was convinced at the Norval Art Galley that a photo of
a young woman with her grandmother was the young girl we purchased the carved
boab nut from in the park. The park is just across the road from the gallery. I wonder if it is? Their carvings are lovely and now being sold
in the Norval Art Gallery for vetween $70 and $200.
Derby was gazetted in 1883 and at the 2016 census the population was 3,325. It is one of the
three towns in the Kimberley to have a significant population. Of course the other two are Broome and
Kununurra. About 47% of derby’s
population are aboriginal.
We really don't mind Derby. Helen Campion said she hated it, but the climate is very nice at this time of the year. Since we headed north, shorts have been the day wear, but it has been quite cold at night. The caravan park was full every night and the town really has been cleaned up a lot. The boabs down the centre of the main drive into town are attractive.
Jenny
2018-07-16
We loved everything about Derby. The sunset was just magical, with fishnchips on the wharf, the Boab tree tells a sad story, the Noval Art Centre was interesting and I bought a carved Boab at Fitzroy, being a little unsure about taking it across the border at NT. Turns out, going out is ok, coming in at Eucla not so sure, but as it was bought and made in WA, all was good. There was a CWA craft day on and I purchased a Gibb River embroidered hand towel for the caravan as we did part of the Gibb with a tour company and went to Windjana Gorge which was excellent to do with an aboriginal elder. Hope you get to work together with your travel companions.