We're up bright and early again for the second leg of the trek. And it's a long one today. 14.5 miles from Cleator via Ennerdale Bridge and Ennerdale Water to the Black Sail Youth Hostel, about 4 miles from Ennerdale Water, right in the heart of the Lakes. We are also travelling heavier today, because the Black Sail is not accessible by motor vehicles and we have to take enough things for our overnight stay. So, a long journey and heavier packs - sounds challenging.......and it was!





But, more of that later. We all slept well, except Tim of course, who never does. Another good brekkie, and then we all pose for a picture outside the 'Girls Entrance'; it was a former school after all! Then, it's 9.30 and we're off. A bit later than planned, but too much chatting 


 



As I said, it is a long walk today and it's even longer when you go wrong! We missed the turn off for the trail to Dent Hill (our first target for today) and realised it about 3/4 of a mile down the road. Now, being experienced orienteers, although a bit iffy on the map-reading mullarky, we worked out an alternative route to get to the top of Dent Hill without going back on ourselves. The snag was, it added about 45 minutes to our journey and probably a couple of miles.....not a promising start.
 

But, Dent Hill was a revelation. Terrific views of the fells, including Scafell Pike. But, what was that behind us? In the distance, was the sea and the very first cliff we climbed up at the start of the C2C. We had walked over 15 miles since St. Bees and lo and behold, we could still see the start!! Did this Wainwright chap not know the value of going in a straight line?
 


 


 




 Anyway, we made it to Dent Hill and we're back on track. About 15 minutes on we reach Raven Crag, after clambering over a giant 'deer-proof' stile. A relatively modest climb to the top of the crag and it then falls away very steeply to the valley floor and the beautifully named, Nannycatch Gate. The steep climb down was a real challenge and had to be negotiated very carefully and very slowly. But, the views were magnificent and we made it safely.

 
 It was then on to Ennerdale Bridge, following the valley and Nannycatch Beck (river to you and me) and then dodging the competitors in the Grasmere 60 mile cycle race. Ennerdale Bridge was to be our lunch stop and Marie took us to the Fox and Hounds for a beer and urgent 'comfort break'.....unfortunately, the pub was closed 'due to unforeseen circumstances'! (!) and Marie had to make alternative arrangements!!! Still, we decided to have lunch in the garden anyway and pulled out our packed lunches......a nice line in squashed sandwiches, after having had to squeeze them into our rucksacks!





Post lunch, we headed for Ennerdale Water and then followed the path along the southern shore for about 3 miles. And what a tough path! Wainwright's book says that the path was, until fairly recently, impractical to use, but as a result of experienced walkers using it over the years, the path had smoothed out and was now much easier to use. Well, his smooth and our smooth are a bit different! This was a very tough section, where you simply had to concentrate very hard, watch your feet all the time and try and avoid turning your ankle! But, we made it and, more importantly, made it safely.



The final part of the walk, was a 4-5 mile slog along the valley floor on a pretty uninteresting forest track and, to be very honest, was very hard and, boy were we pleased to see the Black Sail as it came into view. The Black Sail is an iconic place to stay in the hosteling world (apparently) and is tiny little place (16 beds), where facilities are pretty limited, but functional. We were hoping for a clear night, to get the most from the isolated position, but no, it was very cloudy, as it had been ever since Ennerdale Bridge. But no rain, so can't be too bad.



Although the facilities were fairly limited, the Black Sail had BEER and boy was it needed! Dinner (3 courses for £8.50, although no real choice) was communal with a bunch of young people who were our co-residents. Steve, Tina, Marie and I shared a private room (basically two sets of bunk beds) and Jim & Tim lodged in the male dorm. There was one male and one female loo and one shower........for the whole building.......cosy!
 




What about our 'few points' for today, I hear you say? Well:
 
* Jim & Marie took pole position all day, BUT were led into the Black Sail by Tina and Steve.......a touch of tortoise and hare!
* Steve was our fashion icon for the day (and tomorrow, unfortunately)......shorts and socks that were clearly pulled from his suitcase in the dark!
* Our technology expert Tim, disappointed in his backup role, when his GPS gizmo failed to work when we needed it!
* Tina and Steve very kindly made my top bunk for me......it's so good to have staff!
 
And as for me:
* I neatly deflected the blame (onto Tim) for missing 2 other pubs (and potential loo stops for Marie) in Ennerdale Bridge, shown on the map in my C2C book and spotted by Marie after we arrived at the Black Sail!

A hard day, which was supposed to be 14.5 miles but ended up at 17.1 miles! Borrowdale tomorrow.