Monsaraz, Évora District, PortugalMonsarez – Beja – Mertola
And some more old stones
As for today the forecast still
shows some clouds but hopefully lifting towards the afternoon: we are looking
at some more old megaliths – ok so those ones were not topping yesterdays, but
they were still amazing to look at.
Menhir do Outerio: this
5.6m tall one was on a gravel road and I think what we liked the best with this
one, were the gigantic cactuses along the road, so we had to stop and look at
them: when we got interrupted by two sheep and two dogs – and we made new
friends. So fun #2 was Paul could drive around the Menhir and the sheep and the
dog came again – so more cuddle time. We did see then a lot more sheep coming
and the guy with the truck following his sheep slowly… That was so cool. Ok the
single menhir is cool too.
Menhir da Belhoa: we
stopped here as it was right on the road we drove on – another single tall
Menhir – from here we could already see the town of Monsarez.
Cromeleque do Xarez: yes,
it is a circle, but it has one big menhir in the middle, and the scenery from
here over the valley is stunning. We may should mention, that they are not on
their original site, as they got relocated when they built the Dam as they
would have been flooded.
Anta 2 do Olivia da Pega:
is the last of the big historic stones we look at and this is a Dolmen, not as
gigantic as the one yesterday, but it was super nice to see as it was in the
middle of Olive trees whish is super nice – and we could go inside (that means
Gine went inside) and I think Paul thought: hopefully that is the last stone I’m
looking at.
The olive trees in Alentejo:
- Here in the Alentejo area they grow olive trees since roman times: Olive oil is called azeite
- And olive trees are Oliveira as where the olive tree grove is an olival
- Portugal is the worlds 7th largest Olive oil producer and the worlds 4th biggest exporter: 85 % are produced here in Alentejo
- And as there are different varieties of olives – and so there are different olive oils – who knew
Monsarez – on top of a hill
- Because of its location it was one of the most important settlements in Portugal: as we saw from the stones even the prehistoric people were here. The Romans and Arabs were here until Geraldio took it from the Moors in 1167. And it came under the guard of the Knights Templars in 1232
- This is another medieval village this time on top of a quiet high hill: but it is a tiny village: as per internet 800 people live here
This time, we drove way up the
hill and then parked outside the walls: through one of the gates and we first
walked on the cobblestone street towards the Castelo: in front of us is the
huge tower and after we entered the little first courtyard we could climb up on
some stairs with a view on the Praca de Armas (Formation ground): it actually
looks like a small arena (later we read, that it was also used for bullfighting).
What we liked the best was the walk around the Praca on top of the wall: and
enjoying the amazing views on the surrounding area – the little town (once we
climbed the towers) – and the huge “dammed” lake in front of us. You really
have an amazing view.
The houses here we read are
mostly from the 17th century and yes, they are white, the streets
are cobble stone and not a lot of people are here – and there are only two
roads going all the length and we did walk both of them!!! And still it took as
not even an hour to see and walk the whole town: the original plan was to have
a nice coffee here – the reality was that there was nearly no-one around and so
there was also no coffee.
As we are near a cemetery: we
finally visited one, with all the marble graves and artificial flowers.
Portugal’s great lake:
Alqueva
- We saw it from Monsarez and we staying close by: this is one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe built on the Guiadiana River
- Once here were fields of olive trees and cork oats- today it is tourism at the water
- One town got relocated when they created the dam
In a Portuguese house in
Amierra
After another short drive to our
place, driving in that town is an experience: we are already used to cobble
stones and narrow roads – but those are super narrow – if the car would be a
few inches wider we would be stuck. We did found the “reception” in the empty
road and then she walked with us to “our” Portuguese house. Once when Paul had
to go around a corner, he had to backup and we literally were 2 inches on my
side away from the wall – that means Gine stuck out her head and said ok – no stop,
back up - ok. And we are staying in a typically little one of those white
washed houses on a cobblestone street. Our “neighbor” has the laundry hanging
out and sits in a chair in front – so we did the same when having coffee.
The door has a little window you
can open for light and one for opening for fresh air. Where once the fireplace
and chimney was, is now a sitting area… it is a real cutie.
How hard is it to drive to
the praia?
We decided after coffee to go to
the beach in hope that the sun comes out and we can relax a bit and read with
lake view – ok the most complicated part was actually finding the way out of
the town: some of the streets we decided were too narrow and even GPS couldn’t
really give us directions as per Google map Paul didn’t even drive on a road –
then there are the roads where you can’t drive (unless you are local) some are
one way (unless you are local), we didn’t really wanted to drive against the
one way, as we may then have to back up – really weird. I think we drove around
the weird little town for quiet a bit before finding our way out and then we
did a gigantic loop to come to the beach. We stayed for a little bit, but even
it says that we have 18 degrees with the sun not really breaking through it was
not that warm so we decided to head back and see there we found our way on the
first try!!!! Lucky us we even found a parking spot.
I am not getting lost:
Gine wanted to check out a bit
more the little town (as per internet it has 360 inhabitants) – and lots and
lots of narrow cobble stone roads, white houses and it’s easy to get lost. Armed
with the Walki Talki Gine went in the hope for not getting lost: streets up and
down and left and right, seeing some locals – it is easier on foot then by car,
because you can use each street – it was super fun checking it all out.
Flooding the floor
This shower had a floor mat and
what Gine did not realize, the water can’t drain – and only discovered it once
the floor was flooded – ok so at least we leave a clean floor after cleaning up.
Paul complained that his pants are a bit wet –
But then who puts his pants on
the floor.
Breakfast in a basket
Yesterday we got told, that we will
get breakfast in a basket and at 08.30 a knock came at the door and we got a
huge basket with food: super yummy with fresh pressed orange juice, super nice
warm croissants, yummy fresh bread…. We are getting spoiled here as well experience
being in a typical Portuguese little house we loved it.
Finally: a clean car
Our car got quite dirty in the
last days with the dust and all the gravel roads – yesterday we invested in a
perfect travel Paul cleaning rag and today we have a nice and clean car, thanks
to Pauls early morning cleaning duty.
When we left the little town, we
discovered a cool monument and that is when we realized that this is a bull
ring – ok that is not on our list
Beja town
Today we have a longer drive,
and will interrupt it a few times, first stop is Beja town. On little roads through
the country side and everywhere we see dotted little white villages and once in
a while with a castle.
- Good guess: it is a walled city, it has cobble stone streets and white washed houses including a castle
- What is interesting about this one: it became a regional capital under Julius Caesar who called it Pax Julia after the peace made here with the Lusitanians
After parking at the castle: we
walked through one of its gate and up on the wall to admire the surrounding
country side, as we saw already so many castles and have a nice view we decided
not to pay for visiting the tower even it looks cool: it is made completely
from Marble. Once here we turned and right around the corner is an old roman
arch.
As it is not good to drive and
not move: we go for a walk over cobblestone streets to the Praca Republica: As
where Paul decided it’s a beautiful plaza to sit down, Gine checked it out a
bit more like the gorgeous pillory the roman arch building, heading back we
went into the park behind the castle so we had the best views to admire it. And
let’s not forget we even drove through an ancient arch with the car when
leaving town.
Pisoes Roman Villa
Right outside of the town is an old
roman villa: as per Gine it is sporadic open – we didn’t really know what that
meant. Via gravel road we arrived: and the gate was locked, as we looked a bit
around, disappointed it’s not open, an older lady came to open it for us, that
was so cool, she couldn’t speak English and our Portuguese is not the best, but
we did got it that seniors don’t pay at all, with some information we go to
check it out:
- It was discovered by accident in 1967 during agricultural work: when they discovered this roman villa
- This Villa got built likely around 50 AD and occupied between the 1st and 4th century
- The villa is famous for its mosaic floors and the thermal bath spa
We arrived from the top and
first you think oh its only some ruins: but as soon as we came closer, we
started to see the mosaic floors: they are so amazin. In the center was a
square area with some left over columns as we read the reception rooms. We walked
on the walls – over the nice floors and checked out all the different mosaics:
some cool geometric ones, some with the Salomon knot, we saw a heart, found
birds – the more you look the more you see. And it was not only one mosaic
floor: they were all over.
We also checked out the bath or
thermal complex: they say it is one of the best preserved one in Portugal, what
was cool you could walk down and there underneath all the arches. We discovered that
they had some kind of water system running through it, and at the very bottom
there was a huge swimming pool (no water at the moment). It was a lot of fun
exploring and checking it all out – especially as we were literally the only
ones.
On the way out, Paul found
another little friend: yes a kitty – there are a lot of those around here in
Portugal. As Gine put in the next stops in her GPS for the next part of the
travel, we see that the lady leaves: Guess if we would have come a bit later we
would not have seen the ruins: I guess that is sporadic opening: if she is here
its open and if she is not here its closed
Stork city
As we drive down the country road we suddenly see
on the side of the road a lot of stork nests: and I mean a lot!!! At least 50
if not more, they are all in the trees near each other, several are in each
tree: that means we have to stop and have to check it out – that is so unique:
we saw a lot of storks standing in their nests, sitting, flying, clapping their
beaks – it was so cool!!! Once we left the road continued to be a bit of a
stork nest alley – as nearly every electric post had a nest on the top.
Another section of scenic
country road driving with lots of curvy roads and we stop at the viewpoint of
Mertola:
- Yes this is another medival little pretty town on a hill with a castle: what is unique here is that there are official town viewpoints as well as a lot of tourist buses
- Also what is unique it is on a hill between 2 rivers: which makes it look really pretty
- And it is very old as the Phoenicians already had a town here as well as the romans:
From the viewpoint: Miradouro de
Mertola, we had a perfect view on the little white town with the river – and we
discovered that the air feels finally warmer. We then stopped on the RV parking
lot and walked up towards the clock tower: as we need to walk a bit – so we
deserve a nice supper, so we could enjoy the nice views on the river. We drove
up into the town and decided that we walked enough cobblestone streets – and were
not so excited about having a coffee here: so we went back to the viewpoint where
we had all the benches to ourself and had a nice little snack – so we are ready
for the last leg of our journey today.
Ponte de Mertola: this is a
really cute little bridge with arches and it is a one-way bridge, narrow and
has signs: as we were in the middle of the bridge a Portuguese driver shoots
across – really that was tight!!! We still stopped and checked out this cute
bridge – oh and the cactuses growing here.
2025-05-22