Day 15. 22nd May 2016. Sunday.

We packed up after breakfast, and the kids, me, grandma and luggage waited in the lobby while Godwin went to pick up the rental car from where we had parked it last night. We had a Nissan Wingroad so lots of room for us as well as the luggage. And for once, I didn't have to bother with forwarding the suitcases ahead to our next destination. We piled it, set the GPS for the world heritage site of Shirakawa-go and set off for the long drive. Total distance to the village was about 75 kms or just over an hour and we thoroughly enjoyed the drive. The views through the mountains were absolutely stunning. When we got to the village, there was a bit of confusion, because the GPS let us to this village office that was closed and I couldn't see the classic houses anywhere. I got off to see if there was anyone inside but it was closed. Then we stopped at a tiny shop where a lone woman was sitting and when I asked her where the parking lot to go to the village was, she didn't know. Finally we decided to follow some tour buses because the GPS was being iffy and I used googlemaps on my phone to find the way. I then realised the GPS had brought us to the Ogimachi bus stop and we had to make our way towards the Shirwaka-go bus stop where there was an area for private cars to park. At a price, of course.

We parked the car, and found a place for Grandma to sit where there are shops and small eateries outside the actual village because she didn't want to walk, and the rest of us set off to explore. First we had to cross a pedestrian only bridge across the Shokawa river to get to the Unesco World Heritage Site. The houses here are built in the Gassho-zukuri style, which literally means constructed like hands in prayer because the thatched roofs resemble the hands of Buddhist monks pressed together in prayer. The architectural style developed
over many generations and is designed to withstand the large amounts of heavy snow that falls in the region during winter. The roofs, made without nails, provided a large attic space used for cultivating silkworms.

Before we could explore in more detail, the boys were hungry and quickly spotted an ice cream shop. We went inside and got them ice cream, and then set out to explore again. We found a tiny shop selling the famous Hida beef bun and Godwin and I got one each. The boys didn't fancy the bun. Maybe they were stuffed with ice cream. Godwin decided to walk to the Shiroyama view point which was a good fifteen minute hike uphill to get a few pictures of the amazing views of the village, while I decided to explore the quaint houses with the boys. I thought they'd be too tired to trek up to the view point. Plus, it was kinda hot. There is a separate fee to enter each house. First we went to see the Nagase-ke house. On entering we were encouraged to try the tea made from wild grass. I gave the boys some from these cute little tiny tea cups. Then we went up these really narrow staircases right up to the top floor with the thatched roof directly above us. There were four staircases/ladders that got narrower as we got to the top. Zane was a bit scared but with my help, he made it up top. The views from the tiny windows on this floor were spectacular. You could see miles of green, fields and the mountains in the distance. Then we went to explore the Kanda-ke house which was pretty similar. There's this tiny bridge with a small stream flowing under outside the house that reminded me of the Japanese embroidery my Mum used to do when we were little. From the time of the shoguns and the samurais. Anyway, Godwin met up with us outside the Kanda-ke house and we decided to head back. There were lots of restaurants outside near the bus stop where we got lunch, and then piled up to drive to our ryokan in Takayama.






Our ryokan, Hidatei Hanaugi, is located just on the outskirts of the town and we were checking in for one night. We arrived at the place a little later than we anticipated, and there was a guy waiting on the road to show us where to park! They also quickly sent out a bellboy to collect our bags. Then, there was a slot with my name printed on it at the entrance to keep our shoes. The lobby was amazing with water flowing everywhere, and giant fish in the water. Everything exuded serenity. The gentle lapping sounds of the water, and the whole atmosphere of the place. We were warmly welcomed with a drink and a snack (that Zach loved, I don't know what its called) and shown to our room. The manager came by to tell us that our jackets from the Sheraton had also arrived by courier.

The suite was huge, spacious and styled traditionally. There were sliding doors leading to the suite where there was the foyer, two bedrooms, one with the futons and one with normal beds, a dining area and a balcony. We also had a private onsen which was absolutely worth it and complete and utter bliss. At 106,398 JPY per night, it wasn't cheap, but inclusive of a Kaiseki dinner and breakfast, it was well worth it for a one time experience. The best part was the robotic toilet, where the lights come on when you open the door, the seat lowers and rises by itself and it flushes on its own.

Once we had settled in, our attendant Yuki came to help us choose our yukutas. Zane refused to put his on. We then proceeded to dinner that was in a private room. There was this huge glow sign outside the dining room door with my name in english which was pretty cool. Course after course of food arrived, some that was amazing and some that is probably an acquired taste. The appetizer aws soybean skin and sakura shrimp marinated with horse raddish, icefish fried with crushed rice cookie, manila clam marinated in broad bean paste, firefly squid stewed with ginger, asparagus with salmon, edible wild plants and plum wine. Then there was steamed conger, sashimi and the Hida beef, a speciality in this area, was absolutely divine. The main dish was the steak that you cooked on the grill in front of you. The boys loved the freshwater grilled fish. Dessert was good. There was also miso coup, steamed rice and sea tangle scallop with strawberry vinegar.

When we got back to the room, the futons has been laid out and while not as comfortable as regular beds, the boys were excited to be sleeping on the floor. Have I mentioned the suite has a massage chair? The suite has a massage chair! We decided to go downstairs to take a look around the property and maybe try the foot onsen available. There was a little shop which was manned by this sweet middle-aged japanese woman. We inside to find the sweet they had served us when we arrived that Zach really liked. While I was making the purchase, the woman started gesturing and pointing at my yukuta. I didn't quite get what she was saying so she came out from behind the counter, and starting unraveling the belt that held my yukuta together! I was a little taken aback at first, but then I realised she wasn't happy with the way I had it on, and very sweetly she redid it for me. 

Then it was time to use our private onsen. It took a while for the boys to get used to the temperature of the water, but soon they were having a good time, and when I got them out, they were nice and beet red. They were super excited to go to bed in their futons that were laid out and ready for them. 

One of the things on my list was a ryokan stay and I'm glad I picked this one. It was an experience we will cherish for a long time to come.

Coming up: Crow Castle of Matsumoto
Steps walked: 6974
Items ticked off wish list: Stay in a ryokan and dip in an onsen