You can't miss the muscular fort that towers over the Blue City of Jodhpur: it's larger-than-life and, judging by the elephant ramming-proof gates, totally impregnable. Around Mehrangarh's base, the old city, a jumble of Brahmin-blue cubes, is just as attention grabbing.

...but, alas, that's as far Jodhpur came to capturing our imaginations.

Maybe we've been travelling for too long, or perhaps the unbearable heat is finally taking its toll, but we were far more delighted by our hotels. And their swimming pools.

Ratan Vilas, built in 1920 by Maharaj Ratan Singhji of Raoti, a royal from Jodhpur and one of the finest horsemen and polo players of his time (we know this as the owner was very proud of his family history!) is reminiscent of the romance of this bygone era. With it's heritage rooms, sun-lounger-lined pool (the not-quite-so-authentic-but-thoroughly-welcome addition), and bowls of floating rose petals at every turn, the mansion was the lap of luxury.

Our second home during our stay, and a complete surprise amidst the bustle of one of India’s most historical cities, Krishna Prakash Heritage Haveli was an equally peaceful respite. It stands in the heart of the sprawling walled city and is almost as old as the fort under which it stands. But with the lovingly restored murals and plentiful cool courtyards -- one with a thinking fountain, another with a small plunge pool -- it's a little oasis.