Ravindranath Tagore described it as 'a teardrop on the cheek of eternity', Rudyard Kipling as 'the embodiment of all things pure', while its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said it made 'the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes'.

Maybe I'm a cynic, but when something becomes as iconic as the Taj Mahal, I just don't buy it . I instinctively lower my expectations; choosing to assume that the masses are getting over excited about the 'emperor's new clothes'.

I couldn't have been more wrong.

David and I were in awe at the sheer scale and majesty of the Taj Mahal; with its domes and minarets set against a backdrop of clear, uninterrupted sky. And when you get up close it's beauty just increases. As well as feeling dwarfed by its immensity, it's not pure white as you might expect: it's a rainbow of pink-, yellow- and cream-toned marble. And the marble inlay, made with thousands of semiprecious stones, is exquisite.

As we watched the sun rise, the Taj was beautifully reflected in the water that forms the focus of the ornamental gardens, which lead the eye to the mausoleum. Even with the gravitas of the moment though, we still had time for a giggle. In the centre of the watercourses is an ornate marble plinth, where a constant stream of tourists wait their turn to be captured on film, for eternity, poised in front of this auspicious monument: our favourite being the western couples dressed in their Sunday-Best, doing the Diana pose . We could barely contain ourselves.

The Unsung Heros:

In the shadow of the Taj, the red sandstone mosque and its twin, the jawab, built for symmetry, are stunning structures. And I am sure are, too often, overlooked. Even the Gateway into the ornamental gardens is breathtaking -- and built anywhere else would surely attracts visitors of its own accord.

Similarly, (but not quite so literally) with the Taj Mahal overshadowing it, one can easily forget that Agra has one of the finest Mughal forts in India. This massive red-sandstone fort, on the bank of the Yamuna River, is definitely worth a visit. Oh, and don't forget the Baby Taj.

Finally, we'd also like to take this opportunity to thank Cafe Coffee Day for playing host to us every afternoon: your air-conditioned haven and coffee frappes were a lifesaver!