Thai's call it Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, although it's full name is much longer and the longest in the world, it seems. Remembered by the use of a song which we were given a rendition of by our taxi driver on our first day here, apparently only non Thai people actually refer to the capital as Bangkok!

I view Bangkok as a dirty and polluted city where previously I had passed through as quickly as possible on my way to somewhere else. However, I spent 5 days here this time and perhaps softened a little to the prospect of returning again in the future. It may have something to do with being here with someone who has in total spent around 3 months cherry picking through the city's diverse offerings, but even he hasn't seen it all!

Where to stay
 
As a backpacker there is probably only one place to head and depending on who you are it is probably safe to say that you will either love or hate Khao San Road... just go there without any preconceptions and see for yourself. I would suggest however that you don't stay here on your first night, and perhaps start with a hotel or guesthouse in Soi Rambuttri or Thalon Rambuttri which are close by. 

Of course, if you are not backpacking and are more accustomed to up market accommodation - just get a taxi here from your 5 star luxuriousness!

Highlights

Almost everyone I know has been to Asia has been to Bangkok, but whether you have or not, here are some must see sights and a few other places to add to your itinerary that may not become evident during a quick look at a guidebook or if you're short on time.

 As always, there are all the normal obligatory places found around SE Asia... temples, markets, food stalls! Then there are a few things to do here that you won't have done before: at least not quite like you can in Bangkok!

Temples  

Wat Pho (temple with the biggest reclining Buddha), Wat Phra Kaew (temple of emerald Buddha, within the grand palace), Wat Arun (temple of the dawn, which I've nicknamed the 'grey' temple), Wat Traimit (temple with golden Buddha) and for something different try Wat Ratchanatda (Burmese style temple). All very touristy and all other than the last have an entrance fee.

Markets/shopping centres

Unless you don't like shopping of course (!), Bangkok caters for all budgets. starting at the cheap end you may want to consider Pat Phong night market during the week or Chatuchak market at the weekends. Wear sensible shoes for the latter which occupies 35 acres and houses over 8,000 stalls - this is not for the faint hearted or those with just a couple of hours.

For designer clothing the malls in Sukhumvit are recommended - I liked Terminal 21 as each level is themed with different cities from around the World and there's a good few stationery shops selling bits for my scrapbook and general crafting crap (maybe not for all, but there is plenty else too) as well as one of the best food halls I've ever seen.

One other market worth a quick mention in my view is Asiatique, which is also known as Chatuchak 2 or the replacement for the old Suan Lum market which fell foul to developers a few years ago. To reach it head for Saphan Taksin which has both a ferry terminal and a BTS sky train stop of the same name. From here there is a free shuttle (boat) which runs from the far left of the pier until 11pm. It's very upmarket but sells a lot of what you will find in Pat Pong and sections of Chatuchak, but it's almost clinical it's so clean; and makes you feel like you've left Thailand for the evening.

Food stalls

These are everywhere so don't be afraid to try them. My favourite in Soi Rambuttri was heaving with customers every time we passed it and we only once found a table without having to wait. 

Try typical Thai dishes at different stalls and you will soon find your own favourites too.If you are only passing through Bangkok or unlikely to head to one of the other Thai cities make sure you try the mango sticky rice (dessert or sweet snack), papaya salad (ask for it "mai pet" if you don't like exceptionally spicy food!). If you are like me and not keen on the 'orange' papaya fruit don't be put off as the latter is made with green papaya which is totally different.

Other

The other must do's in my opinion should include:
1. Walking the canal, the less smelliest part I found, runs parallel with Thanon Krung Kasem, north of the train station. Geocachers will find a trail of treasures hidden along here; as well as throughout the city - all with significant info that isn't always featured in guidebooks and therefore a great way to learn about the city.
2. Chinatown - make sure you head for the walking street, Soi Wanit 1. Thete are lots of random tacky items here but it's an Aladdin's cave of crafty bits and other accessories at wholesale prices.
3. Soi Cowboy and Pat Phong at night. Just to gawp at the variety of go go bars; unless that's more the sort of place you like to spend you evenings drinking in! Out of curiosity we gave in to one of the touts lining Pat Phong and ventured in to see a ping pong show - no photos for obvious reasons and any descriptions of what is found inside is worthy of it's own blog entry so that will follow over on my travel site at some point...
4. Jim Thompson house - reconstructed from 6 traditional Thai wooden houses, inside is a collection of items from around SE Asia which this American businessman collected prior to his disappearance from Cameron Highlands, where he was holidaying in 1967. His contribution to the development to the Thai silk industry is evident here in the shop where you can browse some lovely handwoven garments and be assured of their quality.
5. Golden mount - for 360° views across the city, climbing up here in 30+° heat isn't easy, but I still recommend it.

Transport

I wouldn't recommend Bangkok as a city for walking, as things are well spread out through the various districts, plus transport is so cheap. Head for a specific area and then explore on foot once you are there. When it gets too much, remember there is always a foot massage place within metres and I can totally support ending a day with one as a means to wind down and take advantage of free WiFi as your hotel is bound to charge you.

Bangkok has an extensive range of transportation which will differ depending on you destination. 

Arriving into the airport the Sky train is your cheapest way into the city, but it doesn't go as far as the Banglamphu area where the backpacker accommodation and main sights such as the Grand Palace are situated. Just 45 baht and approx 30 minutes to the centre, then hail a taxi for about 100 baht (cheaper in the day) to Khao San Road.

A taxi from the airport to the centre will set you back quite a bit as there are airport pickup fees (50 baht), the metered rate averaging 300 baht, plus a toll charge if they take the highway (70 baht). The risk of sitting in traffic is enough of a reason to avoid this option unless you agree a fixed fare which can potentially be even more expensive! 

Returning from the city to airport will be cheaper at approx 200 baht as Bangkok taxis generally, when using the meter, are the cheapest taxis in the world. They are also a good choice for transportation from the Banglamphu area to the BTS sky train stations or your chosen destination elsewhere around the city.

If you are heading for anywhere within walking distance of the river Chao Phraya (main river) then take a river ferry (express boat with orange flag, not to be confused with the tourist boat) which has a fixed fare of 15 baht to any stop, routes usually found on a city map and clearly numbered. Buy the ticket on the ferry or insist that you don't want to take the tourist boat which they charge 40 baht per ticket for to stop less frequently.

Tuk tuks in Bangkok should be avoided unless you know how much it should cost to get from A to B and only if you're prepared to bargain and can convince the driver not to take you on a commission paying wild goose chase around the gem shops! If they are offering to take you for what seems like a ridiculous bargain, prepare to lose a few hours from your day as you will end up being dragged all over the city whilst they earn a hefty commission and you just get fed up and frustrated. They can be fun, but you need to know what to expect to avoid getting ripped off, not really an experience for first timers or fresh off the boat visitors, get your bearings first before braving these and avoid getting ripped off!

Finally, the Hua Lamphong train station has frequent trains to many destinations around Thailand. Train tickets are cheaper to buy at the station the day before to avoid the commission charged by agents which is between 20-30%. Book early if you can unless you are flexible on time as availability can be patchy if you're not travelling solo.


 We are off to the islands in the South Eastern gulf of Thailand to see what the fuss is all about so check back soon for more.