If you want palm fringed white sandy beaches with turquoise waters where you can snorkel or dive directly off the beach, whilst feeling like you're on a remote island, head to the Perhentians.
 
Located just off the East coast of Malaysia, the Perhentians belong to the Pulau Redang National Marine Park, which means that fishing is strictly prohibited . 
 
Initially, we planned to partake in some volunteer work (see previous post here but had not had an opportunity to venture many places on the islands during that time, so wanted to stay and explore further.
 
We chose to stay on Coral beach, which is on Perhentian Kecil (small island). This island tends to have accommodation more suited to backpackers, although there are a couple of flashpacker and more pricey resorts. The other island is easily reached by taxi boat (the only form of transport on both islands) and cheapest (10RM per person) from Long beach (East coast, Kecil) to Perhentian Island Resort (West coast, Besar). 
 
If you get fed up with island life, sun worshipping or snorkelling/diving or just want to explore, there are a number of jungle treks dotted around. 
 
Perhentian Kecil has a circular loop which takes in a number of the beaches and also the village. It's well marked out from Coral beach round the SW coast via a brick pathway. However, we found the last section between the village and Long beach on the East was without path and overgrown. Maybe we had missed the path, but taking a detour out onto the rocks and round the bay, we were forced back into the jungle area and scrabbling around for a way through. 

After about 10 minutes of bush bashing and battling with roots, thorns, red ants and swarming mosquitos the jungle became inpenetrable, so we had to turn back down to the rocks. Of course we ran out of luck whilst clambering back along the rocks; the rain came, and the rocks became a slippery assault course . So, I don't really recommend this route! 

Instead a taxi boat is just 10RM per person from the village round to Long beach which has a easy path across to Coral beach, to complete the circuit.
 
Points of note:

- There are no ATMs on either island and there have been reports of theft so be vigilant.
- Taxi boat fees double after 7pm.
- I haven't yet experienced Ramadan on the mainland, but in the Perhentians, food places are not effected. At least it is normal service until dinner time; you're in for a long wait when attempting to eat around sunset (7pm) when the fasting is broken and the feasting interrupts and delays the serving of meals.
- The islands are supplied with water from underground wells. There is a distinct sewerage or drainage problem here which causes some unpleasant aromas to drift around.
- Alcohol is not readily available at most establishments or it is very expensive. Cans of beer and bottles of rum can usually be obtained from a man with an ice box along the main beaches .
- The village is a Muslim community so please respect the locals when visiting and cover up.
 
I found a great site that gives more details on all the beaches and the jungle treks here; we found this info invaluable throughout our stay. Check it out for yourself here
 
Having since been to Kapas island (a bit further South), I would definitely recommend the Perhentians, we stayed nearly 3 weeks in total here, lapping up the island life. It's busy and touristy, but there are numerous food choices at meal times and a much better atmosphere. if you want a bit of peace and quiet theres always a quiet beach just a boat ride away from the busy stretch of Long beach or the snorkeller filled bay of PIR. 
 
If you want to volunteer on a private resort and help out on a turtle conservation project then head for Bubbles on Perhentian Besar (see post here)