Bye Pie

Saturday, February 16, 2013
Pai, Chon Buri, Thailand
Pai is a small town in northern Thailand, near the Myanmar border. It is on the Pai River and for 20 years there was no airport (it had been put out of service), but around 2006 it was refurbished and now there is a daily flight to and from Chiang Mai. 

One day I took off ... just walking ... to see what I could find, and ... came across the airport.

Much like a lot of bus stations here, it just seemed to be there. Not much signage and not the expansive airfields you would expect to see at most airports. Yet, there it was, and I just happened upon it while out strolling one day!

Today, Pai mostly survives on the tourist trade. It is well known among backpackers because of it's laid back and relaxed atmosphere. 

Close to town are spas and elephant camps. Further out you can find several waterfalls worth visiting, and a number of natural hot springs. I saw where the temperature ranges from 80C to 200C. I looked it up and that translates into 176F to 392F. Ye Gads! Some resorts tap the hot springs and feed hot water into the bungalows and public pools.

Pai is at the foot of the mountains. Remember my ride down into Pai? It's a great place for trekking and also to see some of the hill tribes . Although, on this trip I won't be doing either. It's just the type of place I enjoy, mostly offering outdoor adventures. The weather, of course, is just wonderful.

At one time Pai was just a quiet village and it's main attraction was hosting street markets. It was inhabited by Shan people. They are ethnic Thai whose culture is influenced by the Burmese. I told you about Burma and it's invasion of what is now Thailand in a previous post. 

The area of this modern day Pai has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. Around 2,000 years ago the main people here were of the Lua Tribe. Decendents still live in villages about 20km (12.4 mi) from Pai.

A few years back, Pai appeared on the Tourist map of Thailand. It was featured in a very popular Thai movie. Because of that it has reopened its' airport, that now gets several flights a day. A few beer bars and music clubs opened and 4 new 7/11 stores . It also got 3 sets of traffic lights! Still, it maintains the small town feel. I think that's why I was told not to miss a trip here.

Today, I have no real plans. You don't need them in places like Pai. That's the character of the place. It's a 'take the day in stride' kind of place. 

There is a paved road at the top of the mountain, just on the other side of the guesthouse's main office. I saw it while walking around, waiting to check in yesterday. I want to see what is down there. Maybe I will find a waterfall or something else of interest.

The road is bordered by lots of banana trees and there are scattered houses along the way, but mostly it is open country. There is not much traffic and it is still early, so it's a nice time to be walking. I went for several miles and enjoyed the scenery. Eventually, not feeling there was anything I needed to see further on, headed back toward the hostel . I like these random walks, though.

Once back at the hostel I stock up on water and head through town and pick a random direction to start walking. Walking I get to see things I would otherwise miss. I walk further out of town and eventually come to the airport. So this is where it is! I figure the airport will most likely be in a remote area and probably there is not much else to see further out, so I turn and return to town.

Back in Pai, I turn down what looks like a dead end alley. Something makes me want to explore this. As I make a turn at what appeared to be the dead end, there is a nice restaurant and right past that is the Pai River and another bamboo foot bridge. 

I cross the bridge and walk about a mile before running out of things to see on the dirt road. After returning to the bridge and crossing over, I walk down the bank of the Pai River. What a nice find!

I see some Thai boys running a sane in the river . There is a bamboo dock and huts are everywhere. I came to another bamboo bridge, but this one is a suspension bridge. 

I took a long time and walked for miles down the river banks. I had plenty of water and snacks and was in no hurry. 

There are two other directions out of town and I explore them both. The last one leads me across the Pai river and back into the mountains. Now I start seeing quiet a few bicycles on the road. 

I think about turning back to rent a bicycle. You can rent one for the whole day for about $1.50. But, it is too far back to town and I have already walked many miles today. I do not want to retrace my steps.

The winding road up the mountain crosses a bridge over Pai River. But, this is a concrete bridge for autos. It is decorated with flowers.

 As I walk further out of town, I pass a valley along a creek where someone has put up clothes lines and has a big washing hanging out . Shortly I follow the curve in the street and the street has a drain on the side about a foot wide. In this remote area without street lights, it would be easy to fall in while walking at night.

Out in the middle of a wide open stretch I come upon a single gas pump. It looks like a phone booth. It is for motorbikes to fuel up. No station, just a single lone pump out here.

I begin to pass small clumps of restaurants and bars. Not enough to consitute a community, but just a few clumped together. One bar is called "Don't Cry". Right next to it is a bar called "Be All Right".

Further up the mountain, there is a large swimming pool. It's called the "Fluid Swimming Pool". I think it's a good idea for a pool to contain fluid.

There is a waterfall up this way. I saw a sign a couple miles back. But, as I come to a fork in the road, there is no sign . I walk a mile or so both ways and give up. I have walked too many miles today to be walking in the wrong direction.
 
On my way back to town I stop in at a place that advertises noodle soup for 12 baht (40 cents).
It comes at a good time as I am hot from climbing this mountain and my feet could use a rest. I still have a good ways to go to get back to town.

Walking in all the directions out of Pai for a while has been the adventures of the day for me. I wish, for the second half of the day, I had rented a bicycle. I could have seen so much more.

A little after dark I go walking into town. As I am walking along the river bank in the dark, I meet two girls. They are foreign girls. I think maybe Americans or Canadians. 

They are lost and ask if I know how to get to the paved road. We are not far from the road just above the guesthouse that I walked earlier today. I tell them how to get to it . They continue walking in that direction.

Then I call to them and tell them there is not much out that way. Are they sure that's where they want to go? They say there is a concrete bridge with flowers they need to find. I crossed that today, too, while out walking. I tell them they are going the wrong way and direct them back into town. I tell them I am going that way and they are welcome to walk along. They turn around and we walk down the river, across the foot bridge and into town. When we come to a street to the left, I tell them to follow this road to the end and turn left. There they will find their bridge. 

Imagine that! ME, giving directions. All my exploratory walking today paid off.

The night is late as I stand on the bamboo bridge over the Pai River (after spending some time in town). The night is so calm. I stand in the middle of the bridge and look one way at the town lights on the bank . The other direction I see the dark of the rice paddies and grass huts. Down the river I see lights scattered for miles here and there along the banks.

This reminds me of my nights on the River Kwai. I take my time and try to get the view cemented in my memory. I have not been able to get photos to come out good at night with my camera. I guess there are some settings I have not found yet.

The day I arrived in Pai, I booked my ride back to Chaing Mai. You have to reserve a ride. It was Friday and I wanted to leave on Sunday. I got the last seat on the first van out on Sunday. Early Sunday morning I caught my mini-bus ride back to Chiang Mai. I have lots of curves to go.

The guidebook says Pai is pronounced "Bye", not "Pie". But everyone (backpackers) I talk to call it "Pie". We are all foreigners, so what do we know?

So, to be safe today, I say, "Bye, Pie".


 


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