Row, Row, Row Your Boat (Cambodia)

Tuesday, November 04, 2014
Siem Reap, Bat Dambang, Cambodia
I climb into the waiting tuk-tuk with my backpack and the driver heads into the hectic, crazy streets of Siem Reap. The landmarks we pass are familiar now. I have been to this Cambodian city several times and know my way around somewhat now. The tuk-tuk weaves it's way down the road, missing the oncoming traffic by inches sometimes. It's just the way they drive here. The 'sellers' are along both sides of the roads selling noodles or rice or fruit or drinks or whatever one item they sell from their small carts. The night air is WARM! I'm glad to be back.

As I walk up to the counter of my hostel I hear a shout "Hi Larry Johnson!" . For some reason they use both my first and last name when they talk to me. I think it is easy for them to remember, more so than the names of their guests from other countries.

They say it with their Khmer accents, though, so it sounds more like "Lerry Jones-son" instead of John-son. It's the young men that work the hostel counter. I have been here several times and they know me by name and want to know where I have been.

After getting the key to my room, I put my bags away, and although I have been traveling for a very long day on my flight from Australia, I want to get outside and walk around the 'old market' and along the river, both near my hostel.

I change out of the long pants and long sleeve shirt and put my jacket away. I'm back in shorts and t-shirt country!

It's late October and the city is ready to host it's water festival, known as Bon Om Touk . Siem Reap is close to the Tonle Sap River and the lake by the same name. This event marks the time when the river reverses its flow back to the sea.

The festival will be held along the river banks just across from where I am staying. It originated back in the days of a king called King Jayavarman. His navy celebrated the event in order to keep the God of the River happy. By doing so they hoped to please him so he would bless them with a bountiful crop of rice and many fish.

My two Cambodian friends, Villa and Samnang, in Battambang want me to come there but I want to stay and see the boat races and experience the water festival in Siem Reap. The very long boats each have 60 people using oars and two of them race down the river at a time. I guess there is an elimination of some sort, because it goes on for 3 days. On the last day certain boats compete for 1st place.

There are what looks like large judging stands and special seating at certain spots along the race area . The seating is for someone important I am sure.

The boats are painted bright colors and have huge eyes painted on the prows. I understand the eyes are to ward off evil spirits. 

The villagers bring boats from far away to compete in the boat races. Siem Reap is very crowded now, more so than usual. I am glad I pre-booked a place to stay.

Battambang, where my two friends live, has already had their festival. The guys have never been to the one in Siem Reap, which is bigger. So, they decide to come for the festival here and stay for a few days. We watch the races during the day and walk around the carnival-like area at night.
 
The last time I was in Siem Reap I found a place that serves crocodile meat. Neither Villa or Samnang have eaten it before, and since I enjoyed the taste the last time, I take them one night to eat crocodile. Everyone agreed, it is very good!

A day or so after the water festival ended Samnang and I rented bicycles to ride to a floating village not far from Siem Reap . We did not go to see the floating village, though, because I took a trip down the river to see it the last time I was here. Today, we just ride bicycles for the fun of it.

The village is not more than 10 or 12 kilometers from Siem Reap, so it should be a nice ride.

I read on the internet that you could cross the river in Siem Reap and ride to the village on dirt roads through Cambodian villages. The dirt road runs down one side of the river and a paved road, that most people take, is on the other side.

Samnang doesn't care which road to go on, but I think he would prefer the paved road. It is an easier ride. But, I think the ride through the villages will be a lot more interesting for me. It won't for him because it's the same places he has lived in and grew up in all his life, so it doesn't hold the interest for him that it does for me.

We are able to ride the rough, rutted out, dirt road through villages about half way to the floating village . Then the road ends and we have to cross a bridge back to the other side of the river with the paved road.

We pass a village where they have small fish spread out on a large platform to dry. Local kids wave and call out hello. It's (for me) a very scenic ride.

We eventually have to cross over to the paved road, and, although there is traffic, it is still an interesting ride. They deliver ice on trucks or tuk-tuks to businesses here. If an individual wants ice they go to a nearby seller and buy a bag when they need it. The people don't have anything to freeze or keep ice in.

I always enjoy the bicycle rides....and for $1 rental a day, it's a cheap activity!

NEXT: A Trip to the Floating Village!
Other Entries

Comments

2025-05-22

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank