The "Do-Nothing Island" (Cambodia)

Friday, September 25, 2015
Kep, Cambodia
rabbit runs and jumps. It's as quick as a bad thought. It has babies by the dozens. It is anything but relaxed and laid-back. Today I take a boat to Rabbit Island. But, people refer to it as 'Do Nothing Island'. A 'Do-Nothing Island' sounds like a place for a student that just dropped out of school. 'Rabbit Island' and 'Do-Nothing Island' seems like a paradox to me. I need to decide for myself which name best describes this island!

 We got a tuk tuk to take us down the coastline to the pier where the boats to the islands leave from . Here we paid our fee for the trip. We would make the trip on one of the primitive longboats, each with a number. We then found the list for our boat and signed on.

The small longtail boat bounces off the rough water on the half hour ride from the dock in Kep to our chosen island. There are more islands around to visit. Some are primitive in the true sense of the word. One is called 'Snake Island'. To get there, though, you need to take another 30 minute boat ride past Rabbit Island.

There are no services or places to sleep. You will need to bring your water and food as well as your own entertainment. It's up to you if you want to sleep on the deserted beach under stars, or bring a tent.

And another 30 minutes past Snake Island is Mango Island. This small island does not have a beach, even. But, if you are just looking for a private, primitive island stay, you can go there. There are nice views from some of the high points on this island .

But, we are not going to one of those islands. We have arrived at Koh Tunsay. Koh Tunsay in English translates to 'Rabbit Island'.

One of the draws for people coming here is the beach. Rabbit Island has about the best beach around the Kep area. But, don't expect it to measure up to the beaches in places like Thailand or the Philipppines.

On arrival, our boat stops before reaching the shore. We jump off the front of the boat and step into the water. We need to wade to the shore, holding backpacks above our heads in the waist-deep water.

Here, there are chickens and cows roaming around and things floating in the water! Still, it is the best beach around this part of Cambodia.

Small bamboo bungalows line the shoreline. All the bungalows are located in the area where the boat docked . There are none on the rest of the island.

They are basic bungalows, renting for about $7 per night. There is no air-conditioning and no hot water in the outdoor shower. The toilet is the Asian style squat, no flush toilet. It is primitive, just like the island. There are no hotels or guesthouses, so, it's the bungalow or nothing!

Small shacks selling food and drinks are mingled in-between the bungalows. The owners of the food shacks also own that group of bungalows, maybe 8 or 10. Then, there a few more bungalows and another food shack, belonging to a different owner.

The bungalows and food shacks are right on the water's edge. Right in front of them are small tables belonging to that group's owner.

Around the outdoor tables, just feet from the water, there are hammocks and lounge chairs to use. No cost. These small food shacks are the only places to get anything to eat or drink . But, the food is very good, and cheap.
 
Apparently the island got it's name because some of the locals insisted it resembled a rabbit. Some people claim that was a result of too much imagination as a result of too much of the local brew in the hot sun!

But, Rabbit Island has earned the nick-name of 'Do-Nothing Island'.

The nick-name probably came about because here there is no internet. No wifi! No facebook! No twitter! No emails! No news of the current strife and wars of the day! Here you actually see the FACES of people, not just the tops of heads looking down into a phone!

 It's maybe as close to feeling isolated as you will ever feel. It's a place for the less-discrimanating - like backpackers!

There is no electricity except for a few hours at night when generators are tuned on at dark and run for 3 hours.

So, if there's no broadband here to connect with your bored friends on the social media sites, what will you do?

A typical day here will consist of soaking up the sun while stretched out on the beach . Playing in the water or napping in a hammock. Maybe you will get to finish that book you have been too busy to read. On this remote do-nothing island you can eat, drink and relax.

We walked along the beach and looked at the different bungalows and food shacks. After walking up and down the shore in front of the small shacks, we stopped at one, under the trees, grabbed a hammock and ordered something cold to drink, and a few snacks.

While walking up and down the shore, I saw a path leading into the forest. When our drinks came, I asked the owner where the path led to. He says you can hike around the island on it!

So, after our drinks are finished and I have had enough hammock for the time being, I suggest hiking around the island. Samnang is always ready for an adventure. Villa will go along when we decide to do them.

The path led into the woods . Then it led out of the woods to the shore. Then it disappeared! A fisherman was coming in and we asked where the trail was. He told my Cambodian friends, in Khmer, how to go through the woods to find the path again.

At one point we came to a small shack where fish were spread out on bamboo platforms, drying.

We walked around the small hut back into the woods. Again we lost the trail in the dense undergrowth.

We rambled around this direction and that until a local man (fisherman) was coming through the woods toward us. They all talked in Khmer and all of a sudden the man started leading us through the woods until finally we came out by the ocean. From here he pointed and told my friends to follow the shoreline for a while and watch for another path leading into the woods.

The entire hike around the island took about 2 hours, mostly because it was not just walking on a path . At some points we had to climb over rocks, fallen trees, and one time wade through some water. Oh, and a lot of bush-whacking went on several times when we lost the path all of a sudden! Apparently not alot of people that come here hike all around the island because the path (when there was one) was not well worn!

Back at the starting point, we find a suitable food shack and grab some loungers. A staff boy comes to see if we want to order food or drinks.

We put in our order and Samnang and I go into the water to play while the food is being prepared. Villa enjoys laying in the hammock!

While we are swimming, the boy that took our order starts into the water in our direction. What can he want? Is there a problem with the order?

But, before getting to where we are swimming, he changes direction and wades further out into the water . Then, he pulls up a trap and picks out fresh caught crabs to fill our order!

Don't expect bright lights and loud music as night falls here! The owners of the food shacks start up their generators for their cafe and bungalows. Don't expect much light. It's more of a dim glow, just enough to see where you are walking! Also, there is no running water!

There are no big crowds here. They are in other places, looking for bright night lights. Most people come here on the boat from Kep and just spend the day before catching the afternoon boat back. There are a lot fewer people on the island by nightfall.

At night, sit and talk, drink, play in the water, get a massage, or just relax. Then, when it's time for bed, climb inside the mosquito net that's over your bed and have a quiet, peaceful night on this remote island in south Cambodia!

I found enough to do today on 'Do-Nothing Island' . But, to be honest I am not as much of a beach bum as some people are. If I stayed here longer, it would just be to lay on the beach all day and maybe swim a little. I have hiked around the circumference of the island already, so now I guess I would just 'Do-Nothing". I think a couple a couple of days would be enough!

Many backpackers I meet will spend a week or two just hanging out on a beach. But, for me, after a couple of days of lounging on a beach, I am ready to look for a mountain to hike or bike to ride, or some new sights to see.

Nevertheless, this has been a great time and I do want to come back again for a few days!

The next time you hear from me will probably be from Vietnam!
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