As a contrast to recent trip to the deserted island I am now in the tourist hotspot of North East Brazil – Jericocoara. Due to the constant wind and waves this small village has become a destination for kitesurfers and windsurfers from all over the world. As I have never done either sport before, and I cannot afford the time/money to learn here, I have used my stay as an opportunity to explore the sand dunes and lakes, relax a little at the beach, and to socialise with other tourists. It feels very much like I am in Europe and everybody here speaks English, which is quite different to other recent experiences! It is nice for a change, but it will be good to get back into the more real Brazil as I head down the coast after a few days here. On the first evening I climbed the main dune and watched the sunset which was beautiful, and then went to the Capoeira circle on the beach.

I am staying with one of the Swiss guys I met when I was travelling along the Amazon as he is renting a house here with a couple of friends. Jericoacoara has a lot of people who are here long term to take advantage of the whole windy season for their chosen watersport. On my second night here they had a barbecue and invited some of their other friends who are also here long-term. The first question here always seems to be "so, do you kitesurf or windsurf?"  To which my answer is the unusual response of “no”! This is quite different to the conversation that I have had with pretty much every Brazilian man whilst on my journey… it is always the same, and I had it on the bus on the 30 hour bus on my way to Jericoacara (translated for your and my convenience):


Mr Brazil: Hello, where are you from? France?
Me: No, I'm English.
MB: What is your name?
Me: Vicki
MB: What? Bea-seen?
Me: Erm no, Victoria…
MB: Ah, Vitoria!
Me: Yeah, that’s close enough
MB: Are you married?

Usually I have to answer with “no” at this point and it leads to endless compliments (usually about my eyes), marriage proposals and a general sense of awkwardness and I cannot explain in Portuguese exactly why I don’t want to go and live with them forever and have their children. Saying “I don’t want to” doesn’t seem to cut it with these guys, you need provide multiple reasons and strong evidence as to why it is not a good idea! However, on this occasion I had, for the first time, decided I should dig out and wear the fake wedding ring I brought with me. Despite this, the man on the bus proceeded to tell me that I should take off my ring as my husband is not here, and I should marry him instead… I can’t win!

So, this is why Jericoacara makes a refreshing change. At least that is what I thought. That only applies to the tourists, the local guys here are just the same as everywhere else. As I was alone and I don’t have a lot of money I couldn’t afford to take a tour around the local area in a dune buggy, no amount of bargaining got it down to a reasonable price. I did however find a nice guy who doesn’t speak English who would take me on a motorbike instead for a good price. Never before has 50 km/h felt so fast as it does on the back of a motorbike over sand with very strong wind blowing! We had been on the road for about 15 minutes before we got to the first lake surrounded by sand dunes. It was absolutely gorgeous, and not another sole around… a dangerous place to be with a Brazilian man!

The sand around the edges of the lake was like quicksand, which meant no messing around at the side when getting in for a swim, you have to dive straight in. It was very refreshing to be swimming in freshwater rather than saltwater and cooled me down from the midday sun. My “guide” also came in for a swim, and although it took him a good 10 minutes, the inevitable happened… out came the compliments and the usual lines in Portuguese that I now know off by heart! After explaining as best I could why I was not interested, he finally got the message and accepted it. I was expecting a very awkward day to follow as we went to the rest of the places, but he just brushed it off and went on as normal, which suited me fine! This trip is starting to show me that English men really are gentlemen.

Throughout the day we went to various different lakes of all shapes and sizes, but all surrounded by the sand dunes and filled with crystal clear water. It is a really beautiful place, despite the constant burning of the sand blowing against your legs. We had some lunch of freshly caught and barbecued prawns and fish, which was delicious. There were a group of European men with some thong-clad Brazilian beauties at the same lake where we had lunch, apparently prostitution is quite rife in this area. European men come and pay the Brazilian girls which causes problems, but I was also informed that European girls coming to seduce the Brazilian men is not a problem at all! Then we went on a 1 mile walk across the dunes and rocky beach to reach a rock with a hole in to watch the sunset. The walk back in the twilight was a little more difficult as I clambered elegantly over the rocks – luckily I think this sight was enough to put him off making any further advances!

Jericoacoara has some stunning surrounding areas, but I am sure that there are many people here who do not go to see them, or any other part of Brazil whilst they are here on their wind/water sport holidays. At least now I know where I should come if I ever want to learn to kitesurf… for that I don’t think Jeri can be beaten. Maybe next time I can afford to take the R$7,000 (£2.5k) helicopter ride from Fortaleza rather than the R$35 bumpy bus/truck ride through the dunes and along the beach.