Ancient Kourion, a beach & a coastline

Saturday, October 06, 2018
Ancient Kourion, Limassol, Cyprus
A bit of culture today - we still had the car so we fancied visiting the remains of ancient Kourion. It’s a very extensive site so the poor hip got a real work-out, but well worth the 45 min drive towards Limassol (and the pain!). Kourion was the major city state of Cyprus in 300BC & has really impressive ruins, showing the best of Greek then Roman architecture. 
Sometimes age has its compensations, and once again we had 2 for 1 tickets in view of the fact we are both 65+. We started in the house of Eustolius, a wealthy Greek chap who built a villa with lots of baths and impressive mosaic flooring; 500 years later the occupying Romans tmade the most of his vision and turned them into public baths. Best of all though was the vista from his house: Kourion sits on a cliff with stunning sea views.
The amphitheatre was most impressive & has been fully restored - it originally seated nearly 3000 and even though many seats were removed, it is still huge and hosts concerts & shows - the Russian Ballet is there next week. (More Russians!!) It was 30deg so a bit hot for trekking round, but we did our best & made use of the occasional shelters dotted around the site.

The House of the Gladiators also has great mosaics, as has Achilles House, but the extent of the site is so impressive - I could easily picture toga-ed citizens milling about in the Agora. One house had a hypocaust showing how it would have looked (I know you know that’s a central heating system but I’ve said it now in case you’ve forgotten!) Pillars were standing in their original positions and gave us a real insight into how impressive the buildings must have been. 

We met a lovely German couple who turned out to be caravanners & spent a while chatting & taking each others’ pictures – I had the camera on a 10 sec timer & attempted to do a runner over the ancient stones to be in position. I only just made it while the Germans killed themselves laughing & offered to take our pics. We also had a parapenter photobombing us through the arch!  A Russian chap then came along (MORE Russians!) & insisted we posed again with me sitting down. We humoured him until his wife got cross & made him leave.
I’d heard about a salt lagoon a little further on which was home to flamingos & pelicans so we decided we’d have a late lunch there & do some birdwatching.....we drove down the peninsula surrounding it, only to find no birds at all, no cafes & no photography anyway- it’s right next to the GB base of RAF Akrotiri,  which still houses active service personnel. It was strange to look at the map and see the base is actually labelled as part of Great Britain, and across the "border" is Cyprus. 

Through Akrotiri village the road petered out of tarmac & became very rough, then turned into huge salt flats. They looked the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah where land speed records are attempted, & I had to restrain R from giving it a go in the Mazda, much to his disgust. We were not supposed to take the car off-road, but there WASN’T a road and anyway, it was much smoother! We followed tire tracks across it to the beach & found a nice cafe there, then came back on B roads which were nearly as empty as the motorway, but with better views.

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2025-05-22

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