Day 7: Fox Glacier – Haas – Lake Wonaka (265 km)

We left Fox Glacier early and drove south to a small town called Haas. It rained most of day7, making us appreciated the 6 blue sky days we'd had before. With little to do in the rain we headed west. We stopped half way at Blue Pools, had a short walk then drove to Lake Wonaka. About 30km from Wonaka the landscape changed to huge lakes with mountain backdrops.

In the evening I camped at a department of conservation site 4km out of Wonaka in Albert Town, parking with plenty of space inbetween the autumnal trees. I also picked up my first hick-hiker, who was also heading for the campsite.

Day 8: Lake Wonaka – Queenstown – Te Anua (270 km)

In the morning we went to Puzzeling World, a tourist attraction in Wonaka. It had a very confusing maze where you had to get to all 4 corner towers. It was over 2 levels, had endless deadends and identical paths to make you lose your sense of direction. The attraction also had 3 interesting illusion rooms. In Wonaka we did a 4.5km walk to Mt Iron, providing great views over the town and lake. Near the car park for the walk there was a Gala apple tree so I stocked up on free fruit!

After lunch we drove along New Zealand's highest road, highway 6 to Queenstown, at just over 1000m (higher than England's highest peak). Queenstown looked nice on approach, surrounded by mountains, but ended up being a disappointment. It was very generic, providing little but retail outlets to take your money.

After we headed south and found a great spot overlooking the lake and the Incredibles mountain range. We then drove 200km to past Te Anua to a nice department of conversation campsite in the forest. As we drove the sun silhouetted the mountains and we drove across very remote
countryside. When we stopped for a break there was nothing but darkness, providing a fantastic view over the clear nights sky, with the milky-way visible.

Day 9: Te Anua – The Divide (Key Submit walk) – Te Anua (150km)
 
The department of conversation campsites are basic, providing only a nice spot off the road to park up and an eco-toilet, but they very cheap at £2.50-£3.50 per night per adult. Along the road to Milford Sound 'freedom' camping (finding a random spot to park for free) is not allowed but the department of conversation campsites are in great locations. We woke up in the forest to find there was a beautiful lake 30m from the campervan. I had the usual coffee, muesli with jam
then had a look at the lake. Great way to wake up!

We drove towards Milford Sound but stopped 20km short at The Divide carpark. We decided to skip Miford Sound (too touristy) as we were not looking to do the 3day walk. We instead walked along the first section of the Routeburn track, slowly ascending 450m to Key Submit (950m). The walk was 4 hours return and provided amazing views over the Darran Mountain range, with snow topped peaks (2700m). This area is renowned for rain (200days per year) so we were luckily to do this walk in the dry. A really enjoyable hike.

After we heading back south, stopping at the Mirror Lakes. These provided fantastic reflections of the near by mountains.

In the evening Colin slept in Te Anua and I drove back to the campsite from the night before (Henry Creek).

Day 10: Te Anua – Keppel Walk - Dunedin (330km)

It had been a windy night and the calm lake at the campsite was now full of waves and felt unsettled. I went and meet Colin at Te Anua where we had a walk around this small, relaxed town.

We decided on walking the first section of the Keppel track (a 4day circuit), drove to the control gates the other side of the lake, then set off through the forest. The thick beach forest creaked and cracked in the wind overhead. The forest walk followed the lake along for 1 ½ hours then ascended up a track. Along the way there was fantastic red, white, orange and black fungi. The return trip was 4hours, approx. 20km. Not the great views of the day before but still a nice walk.

Late afternoon we drove west 160km to a town called Gore. We'd planned to spend the night here but there wasn't any good campsite locations or motels. Instead we drove the remaining 140km to Dunedin, arriving after 9pm. I ended my run of nights in the campervan and spent the
night in a hotel room. Sleeping in the campervan in a city center with drunken people walking around didn't have the same appeal.

P.S. Just for you Chris Martin, here are some shots from the inside of the campervan. Note, the evening bar next to my bed ;-)