Our last full day in Galilee was planned for a drive through the Golan Heights to see vestiges of several wars that were forced onto Israel by its Arab neighbors.  After another hearty breakfast at Pina Barosh, we headed north.  However our first stop, the Nimrod Fortress on Mt. Hermon, predated all the modern conflicts.  We thought it had been in Crusader territory but it turned out that the Crusaders never conquered this northern area.  Construction of Nimrod began in 1227 by Muslims fearing the Crusaders would march on Damascus through here but that never happened.  They did attack in 1253 but failed to conquer the fortress.  Nimrod was destroyed during the later Mongol invasion but after the Mamluk Arabs prevailed it was reconstructed.  After the final expulsion of the Crusaders from the Holy Land, Nimrod’s importance diminished and it was later abandoned.  The ruins that remain are quite spectacular though, and we spent well over an hour exploring them.

Next we headed towards the Valley of Tears, site of a ferocious tank battle in the Yom Kippur War, just on the border with Syria.  As the route was also the way to the ski resorts of Mt. Hermon, we passed numerous chalet-type accommodations and, of all things, roadside stands selling ski gloves and little plastic-shovel-like devices for kids to ride down snow slopes.  It was odd to see one of these and beyond our comprehension when we came upon another six or so.  Really, how many skiers head for the slopes with their skis and boots in tow just hoping there is a roadside stand to sell them gloves?  However, that must be the case or we doubt these merchants would be there.

Israel occupied the Golan during the Six-Day War in 1967.  The Arabs smarted over it ever after, especially Syria, and attempted to reclaim it in 1973.  Our first destination was the Oz 77 Memorial, which honors all members of the IDF who died defending Israel but especially the soldiers of the 77th Battalion 7th Recon Unit, who faced down a large number of Syrian tanks pouring across the valley with less than 100 tanks of their own.  While the accounts of exactly how one-sided this four-day battle was (it varies on-line from 1000 to 44 tanks, 500 to 100, 1500 to 160 and so on), it is still hard to imagine how anyone survived any of those odds, much less won.  It is a poignant place, all the more so because you can stand around the abandoned rusted tanks and see Syria (even Damascus) across the wide valley as well as the demilitarized zone that is maintained to this day by UN forces.  The memorial itself was established by friends and family of the fallen soldiers of this unit.  On a sunny day like this one, it is a family destination and there is picnicking and children crawling all over the rusting tanks.  It is deservedly a source of great pride for the Israelis.

We left the Valley and drove to nearby Mt. Bental, which overlooks the Valley and was the site of fierce fighting itself during the Syrian offensive.  It has been developed into a tourist site where you can visit the old bunkers and admire an eclectic sculpture garden.  It too was very crowded on this beautiful Shabbat.  

From Bental, we rushed to visit our last two sites up on the Golan, a couple of nature parks.  As we feared, we arrived too late... the Israeli Parks people are very strict with closing times and close access an hour before actual closing time.  Thus, driving in at 3:30 to the Gamla Nature Reserve when it closing at 4:00 was a no-go.  Phyllis very nearly drove into the exit lane of the parking lot and was waved off at the last second by a park staff, very luckily so because these exits are like car rental lots with nasty spikes to spear your tires if you go the wrong way.  As we said, Israeli Parks hours are serious.  Disappointed, we did find some dolmen along the entrance road as we were leaving, and also a small waterfall a bit further on.  

We consoled ourselves (and celebrated an otherwise very successful day) with a very nice steak dinner at Tibis, a place recommended by our host and a 10-minute drive away from Rosh Pinna.  We are so sorry that the on-site bistro at Pina Barosh closed down during covid and is still unable to re-open.  Not only was it said to be excellent, but a lot more convenient.  Fortunately they are still able to serve those awesome breakfasts.