This afternoon we planned on visiting the famous Wielicza
Salt Mine, our guided tour was set up for 15:30. We therefore had the luxury of
time on our hands and decided that what we would do was go into the city centre
and find something to look at, touristically speaking.
Once breakfast was done and we were in town, we
decided that as it was so hot, we would enjoy some time indoors and the nearest
building to us that housed anything of interest was the the Gallery of 19C Polish art in the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall)in the main square. As it was a Sunday it also was a free entry (though
to be fair that might also be the case during the week). There was a lot of art
on display but not all of it was to our taste – for instance I’m not a great
fan of portraiture, whilst I recognise and acknowledge the skills, they are
still for the most part, boring to me. I do like 19C romantic paintings and
there were some nice ones but the two I have selected here are because the
first reminds me of the Skagen school which we so liked in Denmark and the
other is Monet-like (see pictures).
Back to the flat for some lunch and then we walked
down to the main shopping complex called Galleria, through which and on the
other side bus 304 was waiting. On
Polish buses you by the ticket on board ( basically £1.00 for a journey of up
to 50 minutes) and then you time stamp it and you’re good to go. We arrived in
plenty of time for our 15:30 slot so I went to see if we could change them for
the 15:00 time slot, which we could and that is when we went down.
The thing that appeals about this salt mine is that it
has been operational in one form or another since Neolithic times. Then,
salt-saturated brine came to the surface to be harvested by our ancestors but
eventually this convenient source dried up and sometime in the 1200’s, people
started digging tunnels to extract the salt, so that today there are no less
than 300km of tunnels on 3 levels, of which we got to see less than 1%. At one
time, salt extraction was a hugely profitable business, salt was almost worth
as much as gold and this mine was literally, a gold mine.
Here is a URL giving
more information:-
For the average tourist, there are two worries when
visiting the mine 1) can I cope with the 800 steps descending (easy as they are
in sections, and each section is of 6 steps at a time) and 2) will I be cold at
the constant temperature of 16°C ? ( this is more of a female question in my
experience but my lot were quite happy!!). I’ve included a few photographs but
it is hard, with an ordinary digital camera, to capture the breathtaking extent
of the place. Some of the chambers were vast, 33m high and huge, big enough to
house churches and concert venues and a restaurant. There were lots of rock
salt carvings and in general, tons of things to look at. We thoroughly enjoyed
the trip and were very relieved to learn that the 130m decent by stair was the
only hardship, the ascent was via a lift and back into the 37°C late afternoon
temperatures – what a contrast!
That evening we’d decided to find a restaurant nearer
to the apartment block but there weren’t any apart from a brewery with a
restaurant which of course we had to go to. I had a really nice Jalapeño burger (no bun, thinking of my
waistline!), Julie had a pork knuckle (2) and Rosemary a Goulash. The food was
excellent and more than sufficient, speaking of which they had an offer on; buy
a litre of beer and get one free (who could resist?) so I was more than sated
and Julie and Rosemary struggled with a bottle of wine…
2025-05-23