Our rooms may be a little dark but the excellent breakfast
went some way to compensate.
It’s nice having a cooked breakfast prepared by
someone else and the scrambled eggs were very good indeed, especially when
accompanied by a selection from the cold meat tray, together with some fresh
tomato and pickled gherkins, lovely! However we couldn’t take our time too much
over breakfast as our next walk was scheduled for 10:00 and before that, once
again we had to take Rosemary to seek some medical assistance. This time, poor
thing, she’d picked up a tick and noticed it when she was in the shower. It was
on her back, just above the waist but it hadn’t really started feeding as it
wasn’t that bloated. Try as I might, using two credit cards like forceps, I
wasn’t able to get it to detach, hence the search for assistance after
breakfast. This assistance came by way of two nurses at the local medical
centre who saw Rosemary right away and two minutes more or less later, she was
out, sans tick. What fabulous service! Contrast that to a visit to A&E in
the UK…
We met our guide, Maria, bang on schedule at 10:00.
She is a lady in her 60’s, relatively heavily built and with a pronounced limp
as if she has sore hips. We reckoned that it wouldn’t be much of a walk given
her limp, but hip or no, she definitely took as around the proscribed walk! She was very game. There is an area of forest
here that to the best of everyone’s knowledge, has never been impacted by man
and in order to preserve it’s unique integrity, visitors are only allowed in to
the protected area in the company of Park Guides and then there are strict
rules to follow (leave everything alone, no litter etc and stick to the marked
paths). We set off from the Tourist office and once over a bridge crossing a
small river, we were in parkland that used to be owned by the czars and they’d
built a large hunting lodge here, sadly no longer in evidence. A little later
we were in the ticket office and exhibition centre for the park and having
purchased our tickets – only 6PLN each , about £1.50 we walked further through
more parkland , quite a lot further and I started wondering what all the fuss
was about, as the area had most definitely been affected by man, including
clearing the trees and planting imported ones, all of which were pointed out by
Maria in a very hard to follow rapid, strongly accented English.
She certainly
knew her stuff, listing the common English and the Latin names of plants as
well as pointing out the medical uses of many of them. The path took us to a
park gate and having gone through, it led us to a large meadow area, with rolls
of hay scattered about. Maria explained that the purpose of the hay was to feed
the bison during the winter, the idea being that rather than having them eat
the foliage in the protected forest, they would preferentially come out and eat
the hay. After another half a mile or so, we finally came to another gate with
a guard present and having shown him our tickets, we were allowed in to the
Protected Forest.
Now I have to confess to a little disappointment and I
think it’s fair that we all felt it. The forest may be unique and worthy of
UNESCO recognition, but for us plebs, it just looked like any woodland we’d
been in, with the exception, perhaps, of more than the usual amount of dead
lumber lying around. The oak trees were also longer and straighter than what we
are used to in the UK but according to the internet, we have older specimens,
the oldest here are about 600 years old and ours are approaching 1000 years, so
there! Still, it was lovely walking through pristine, more or less, forest but
it wasn’t quite the ethereal experience we expected.
One sight we didn’t expect
to see and it was a chilling one, was a number of crosses dotted about,
denoting a spot where partisans had been executed during WW2, apparently several
hundred during the course of the war.
At the end of the tour we wanted some lunch, but not
too much as we would be having a relatively early meal before our next meeting
with Joanna, as at 20:00 we were planning to do a 4 hour night excursion. Here
in Poland, or at least in this part, it is hard to buy a simple, light lunch in
a restaurant so after a couple of attempts, we ended up in the small
supermarket and bought some ham & cheese etc and had a snack in our room,
followed by a sleep ( sad getting old) and later, we found a restaurant next
door to the Tourist Office where we all had venison with some pickled
vegetables and potato dumplings (tasteless, gooey things) (Julie &
Rosemary) and buckwheat groats (me, much better, whatever that was!).
At 20:00 our favourite guide appeared and we ran her
back to her house to pick up the night vision binoculars that we had hired for
the occasion.
Joanna had brought the ordinary binoculars that we had used
yesterday and very good they were too but the night vision ones, being heavier,
were a load too much for her to carry. She also had her own thermal imaging
‘scope to use and for us to have a look through and I must say, the latter
proved by far the most useful as the night vision binoculars are only effective
at relatively short distances – most animals we encountered were too far away
for them.
We set off, full of anticipation and the very first
thing that Joanna wanted to show us were the beavers, in town, right next to
the bridge that we had crossed earlier that day with Maria. Now we did see
bubbles and a wake where they had been and we could also see traces of a brown
back in the reeds but that was all. After 15 minutes we gave up and went in
search of bigger critters. Fortunately, after a short period of time, in one of
the bison-friendly meadows, I spotted a lone bull in the distance and we were
able to get close enough to get some decent photos (with appropriate allowance
for the poor light and cheap camera ie not BBC wildlife level of
sophistication).
It was a fabulous feeling, seeing this magnificent beast less
than 50 metres away. He was aware of us, his tail was twitching a little to
show that he was not 100% relaxed but after a while, he settled down and
chilled out. A very special moment. Just think, only 300 years ago, these
fabulous animals were to be found over the whole of mainland Europe and now
there are something like 6000 left in the whole of the world. Shame on us.
As dusk deepened the ordinary optical binoculars
became unusable so we took up the image-intensifying ones. These had two
buttons on, the first one activated the system which made maximum use of the
available light and the second, only to be used when quite dark, sent out a laser-like
beam of light that would illuminate an object at some considerable distance, at
least that was the theory. However, by far and away more useful in spotting
animals was Joanna’s personal thermal imaging monocular (picks up infra-red and
animals glow in the dark, with the hottest areas a red colour) and with the aid
of this, we could drive slowly past the meadows and spot things.
We didn’t see
any more bison, so it was a good thing that we had seen our friend earlier else
we would all have been disappointed but we did see numerous red and roe deer in
the far distance, too far for our light-intensifying binoculars which in
reality are only good over distances of tens of metres. It was fun looking at
the deer, knowing that they had no inkling that we were watching them. At one
juncture something spooked the small herd that we were watching and they all
disappeared back into the forest – I like to think it was a wolf but we didn’t
see anything; later, we did however follow a fox whilst it was out hunting.
All good things come to an end and as it was
approaching midnight, we decided to call it quits and we dropped the
ever-enthusiastic Joanna off at her home in order that she got enough rest
prior to her 9 am. group tomorrow – hard worker that she is. She definitely
made our sessions together quite special, we are lucky and grateful to have
found her.
2025-05-23