Gorod Vladikavkaz, North Ossetia–Alania, Russian FederationMIR Trip Notes: Vladikavkaz
A city of approximately 330,000, Vladikavkaz is an industrial center and the terminus of the Georgian Military Highway.
This region of the North Caucasus is watered with many mineral and fresh water springs. Founded in 1784, Vladikavkaz was given it names, whih mean "Ruler of the Caucasus," by the Russian military leader, Prince Grigory Potemkin. Nearby was the original fortress on the nearly vertical darial Gorge, one of the only ways through the Caucasus Mountains. This is where the Georgian Military Highway croses into Georgia.
This morning, take a walking tour of the central part of town, strolling the pedestrian Mira Avenue, the historical and cultural center; as well as the embankment on the Terek River. Admire the church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the only surviving building from the original fortress, and the Mukhtarov Sunni Mosque, opened in 1908.
Visit a local bazaar where the abundant fruits and vegetables of the Caucasus can be found, and attend a cooking class at a local restaurant where you enjoy lunch. Drop in on a rehearsal of a traditional dance ensemble, and after dinner, attend a performance of the Kona folk music group in their workshop where instruments are made.
Meals: B,L,D
Hotel Alexandrovsky, Vladikavkaz; Aleksandrovski Grand Hotel; Prospekt Mira 29; Vladikavkaz Russia 362040; Phone: +7 (8672) 40 40 70; Fax: +7 (8672) 40 40 71
One wrong key and I got bumped out of the blog and lost everything I had written and I was almost finished with today's blog. Heartache.... This where I need the unhappy face emoji.
I woke up extra early and had time to kill. I went to breakfast - nice buffet with some salads, quiche, jello I could have not bothered with. I don't know what I was thinking. I had over an hour in my room before departure time. Kay was having problems so she went to Olga about getting medical attention for her shoulder pain and went off to a hospital with Anya.
We began our walking tour of Vladikavkaz with Olga and Michel at 9 am in front of the hotel in the square with a statue of Lenin. We saw quite a few statues as we walked along the wide parkway along that main Mir Avenue. There was a statue of the famous Russian poet and novelist Pushkin in a bullock cart. It is said that Pushkin only had one line about Vladikavkaz when he visited it: "What a disgusting city." But I found it quite charming with its wide park-like boulevards and brick buildings. It has a large university where Olga teaches.
We visited the Mukhtarov mosque, an Armenian church, and a beautiful Ossetian church with cemetery.
We saw school 13 which the Soviets built on top of half of a cemetery. We also saw the Marinsky Theater which is housed in a former Lutheran church. We walked across the bridge over the major Terek river for a better photo op of the mosque. Rami noted that the mosque had no place for ablutions. They allowed us to go in without headscarves and take photos even though some men were inside praying.
We went for lunch in a restaurant housed in old stables or made to look like stables. There we had a cooking class to made Ossetian pies. I worked with Jerry and Betty to make a cheese one. Dana and Rami made a beet green one. I think we made one stop at a souvenir shop before going on to the dance school where we saw the teachers - an engaged couple - perform several dance numbers - the first few dances serious and then a livelier traditional folk dance. Since we were late because some people's' food did not arrive until too late and they had to leave half their meals - the dance teachers had to go teach their class. They very kindly allowed us to watch for awhile. They had about 30 studeints - 8 boys and the rest girls from about 4 to 9 years old. The classes run 3 times a week and last 2 hrs each class. That may account for why the children were so good.
Was it now that we went to the souvenir shop>
We went back to the hotel where we had 45 min before we had to leave for dinner. I asked about a florist shop. It ended up that Olga walked me half way there.
When I went in I tried to order a bouquet of a dozen roses for Olga. She was leaving us now before the end of our trip because she had another assignment. I ended up with 11 light pink ones because even numbers are unlucky and I did want to wish her good luck, not bad luck. It took me some time to grasp what the florist was telling me about the proper number of stems. I carried them back, put them in water in the sink until it was time to go, then I wrapped them in my laundry bag and tried to keep them hidden from Olga. I managed but decided to give them to her right away so they could be put in water.
We had a nice dinner, the food was good, portions too large. I got to have an order of grilled mushrooms and lamb shashlik but it was a kebab. People's orders came and didn't come. Finally every one was fed. Olga had arranged for another performance: This time Elvira, her sister who played accordion, and a male singer/dancer. First they sand some sad songs without accompaniment and then a livelier one. They did a few numbers before dinner was served and then came back when we were nearly finished for more folk songs and dances. They got Phil and Betty to dance with them. Michel decided to postpone Olga's farewell ceremony until we got back to the hotel. We all said our goodbyes and thanks. Olga and I had some farewell hugs. I will really miss her - she is a great leader and a lovely person.
After getting to my room around 8:30 pm, I organized a bit and then started on this blog and had it wiped out and now I have finished again - this time the blog is more abbreviated. This may be a plus in the end for any reader.
2025-05-22