Gunib, Republic of Dagestan, Russian FederationMIR Trip Notes: Day 9 - Gunib
Have breakfast and spend the day exploring Gunib and the surrounding area.
Gunib is where Imam Shamil, the 19th century leader of the Chechens and Dagestans, finally surrendered to the Rusians, after a 25-year struggle.
Dinner and overnight at the Eagles's Nest Hotel, Gunib
Eagle's Nest Hotel,North-Caucasian District, Republic of Dagestan, Gunibsky District,Gunib Russia,Phone: +7 964 012 51 15
Meals: B,L,D
This morning seems so long ago. It is the usual story - I woke up before my alarm, I worked on some computer stuff and then went to breakfast a bit before 8 am. It was quite a nice spread - fried eggs, porridge that I gave away to Kay, a tomato fritata, cheese, bread, fruit, instant coffee. I got back to my room early and managed to upload yesterday's photos. After breakfast I turned in some laundry because I did need to have it done AND it was only going to cost 100 roubles - a bargain!
It is hard to tell how to dress - we were warned that the mountains might be cold, but they have been more hot than cold. Because Dagestan is a Muslim country as was Chechnya, I have to wear longer sleeves and pants or long skirts.
So I wore my jeans again,, a tank top and a shirt with longer sleeves - an outfit that is a bit too warm for the temperature. But I survived. We set out in the jeep and headed up even higher on Gunib mountain. We went to the WWII monument - Belyye Zhuravli, named after the white crane motif. The Russia army with the help of Dagestanis fought the Nazis here. Some Dagestani had supported Hitler and the Nazis because they hoped that Germany would liberate them from Stalin. That strategy did not work and Dagestanis were deported and many died as a result. We visited the Gunib Museum of Local Lore nearby. Gunib and the surrounding area that we visited is mostly inhabited by Avar people. This was the one in which I volunteered to try on the wedding dress. It was extremely hot because of all the layers - on top of my already warm clothes - and, because I had a headdress of coins that covered my eyes, I couldn't see at all. The lady dressing me was very nice. Then Judy and Kay were dressed as well and we all posed for photos. The exhibits in the museum were quite nice I thought because I love all those household items like pots, cradles, pitchers, old photos, et al.
We next retraced out route and came down the mountain and drove over to another ridge where we had an excellent view of the city of Gunib, perched on the mountainside. The views are incredible as are the narrow streets and the terraces and apricot orchards and the natural rock formations.
We may have made another stop but we ended up in Sograti, another village with connections to Shamil and the Caucasian War of the 1800's. I had thought of asking Vlad about Hadji Murat and then not long afterward he mentioned how Tolstoy had written about these wars in one of his earliest and one of his latest works - the Caucasus and Hadji Murat. What was in Sograti - we did visit a second museum that also had a fine collection of old Dagestani artifacts. This was where we picked up the two students. this is the village famous for its scholars and Michel also said that the mother of Tamerlan Tsarnaev, the Boston Marathon bomber, was from this village. I remember reading that he had been a good student and was planning to study medicine and become a doctor.
We had lunch at a private park along a river in Andalal. Betty and I both agreed that we have not seen local people swimming anywhere in these lakes and rivers....and it is July after all. Maybe Vlad told us that they are into wrestling, but not swimming. They have had many Olympic champions in wrestling. There may be some other areas for which Dagestanis are known, but they are famous for their wrestlers. I got to the tables late and so Jim and I sat with the drivers who were very nice to us - they pass food around so that everyone is served. We had grilled lemon chicken and lamb kebab, at least two kinds of Dagestani pies (like the Ossetian stuffed pizzas). Vlad demonstrated how to pick up the wedges and twirl them around to eat them.
There were tomatoes and cucumbers. We had some sort of delicious cake and a choice of black or herbal tea. I think there was something else that I have forgotten. Most of our meals have been very nice.
After lunch, we visited the breeder of fighting dogs. Caucasian shepherd dogs. The owner showed us one of his dogs outside the cages while other dogs barked from inside the cages. They all seemed unfriendly although they were said to be quite harmless. They do not fight to the death. When a dog shows signs of submission, they end the fight. Vlad explained that there are 3 kind of dogs: dogs that like to fight other dogs, dogs that like to fight wolves and dogs that don't like to fight. The former can be used for dog fights, the latter for pets and the middle for sheep dogs.
After this we turned back and then turned on to another dirt track with ruts and holes that led to the village of Chokh. Oh, I think the dogs were after this. We saw a school and then went to the second museum where we saw some nice exhibits. We were then introduced to two young students: one just graduated and is headed to Moscow to study medicine and the second is still in high school but intended to study physics sand mathematics. The first boy's two younger sisters were on track for careers as doctors as well. The students followed us to lunch and then to the dogs. I may have the order of things all messed up and am apparently confused as to which village they are from.
Meanwhile the drives between all these places were exhilarating as we perched on ridges and our wheels were inches from deep precipices. The views of the terraced hills and rock formations were stunning.
We had one more stop at a supermarket for Betty (and others) to buy soda and snacks because the restaurant does not serve Coke or Fanta. Kay recalled that Jim had bet that we would not make it back by 6 pm - the stated time - because we had rarely done so up until now. He said he would eat his Ossetian hat if we did. I was trying to think of ways to stall so he wouldn't have to do it, Betty was ready to ask him if he wanted to pick up some ketchup to put on his hat. I explained the situation to Rustam or tried to - I think he understood and had a good laugh when Betty and Kay accosted Jim and called him on his bet in the parking area.
I had an hour before dinner, so I set up my charging and uploaded my photos. Then I went to dinner - we had another fine meal with fish, salad, two kinds of dumplings - a Central Asian meat one and a Dagestiani variety shaped like snakes, supposedly filled with cheese and something green.
It turned out to be close to Vlad's birthday so Ayesha (manager of the Eagle's Nest Hotel) surprised him with Dagestani champagne from Derbent and a musical dance performance by three young women who were cooks at this hotel. They had Vlad dance with them and then the driver Amir danced - he was very good. I had a chance to dance as well, but was not nearly so good as Amir or the young women. We had fun and I had some of the champagne, then left for my room, picked up my laundry.
Oh, I forgot one more of the stops - the last before the supermarket - we visited a project started by a young man to revive the village of Chokh which has only 200-300 people left in it. He is renovating his family home and making it into a potential boutique hotel by furnishing it in the traditional style. It is currently under construction with money from government grants. Then we were served tea by his mother. We had cake, cookies, tea and halvah made with cannabis. This type of halvah is very common in this area. Kay had quite a few helpings - so did I, but I did not feel any effects. The halvah was very crumbly and hard to pick up unless you used a spoon. There was also homemade peach and apricot jams - I tried the peach and it was delicious. Chokh was sort of on the way back from Sogratl which was about an hour from Gunib.
So it is fairly early and I have finished blogging and uploading photos, working on charging batteries. I only really have facebook and gmail with photos to send out and one top to wash before I can go to bed. Maybe this will be an early night.
2025-05-22