Kaliningrad, Kaliningrad Oblast, Russian Federation
10:49 140 p. 13:04 1700 p 16:51 Cafe Verf", Oktabraskaya ulitsa 580 p
15:35 970 p.
15:43 1160 p
I was up before 7 am but didn't make it down to breakfast until 8ish and not out until 9:30 or so. I checked the weather since it seemed pretty cool when I opened a window. I had kept them closed last night because of the mosquitoes. I decided to wear jeans and a long-sleeved turtleneck (first time worn on this trip) over a sleeveless top.
I set off down Tchaikovskaya Street to Sovyetsky Prospeckt, then turned off to go to the Botanical Garden. I needed to cross the railroad tracks so I couldn't take the most direct route. Somehow I expect to be walking much farther but streets come up faster than I expect with the map I am using. I was doing fine, until I made a turn on instinct. I was wrong and found myself not where I should be. I asked an older lady and gentleman and they were very nice in explaining where I should go. The lady even walked to the turn I needed to take to make sure I was OK.
At this point I had to retrace my steps and take the correct turn. From there I managed to get to the Botanical Garden - with no more mistakes but several stops to check my position.
I bought tickets for general admission and winter garden (the greenhouses). The general garden is not maintained to the level it could be. There was a man weed-whacking the accummulation of weeds around some of the beds. There were main paths with signs to the various features - like the rose garden, the pond, the children's playground. A lot of the garden had haphazard plantings surrounded with weeds and uneven ground. There were, however, some perennial and annual flower beds - lots of phlox. Only one small clump of red poppies. Alleys of tall trees made a nice shady walkway and many trees were labeled with detailed descriptions. There was a lovely very long pergola with a variety of vines, from grapes to wisteria. Early on I sat on a bench to eat a little something and was instantly stung on the cheek by a mosquito so I moved onto a sunny bench and was OK.
When I went into the greenhouse, there was a woman who looked at my ticket and was walking around watering plants. The tropical plants in the greenhouse were tightly packed but very healthy looking and very clean - no dust on the leaves. The displays of cacti and succulents were also pristine - very well kept. I was impressed.
There were mothers and grandmothers with children in strollers and young families with children walking around the garden.
It had the feel of a place being used and, despite lack of money probably, cared for. I enjoyed my visit there.
On my way back, I pretty much followed the map. I periodically checked to be sure I was on track with by-standers - all quite pleasant. I asked one young man whether I was on Narvsky Street. I don't think my pronounciation made an impression. He checked his phone for quite awhile and then looked at my map and said I just needed to follow the street we were on down to the right. Someone had told me that Kaliningraders are very friendly. They certainly have been willing to help me.
I returned to Tchaikovsky Street around 3 pm. I was looking for a restaurant I had seen near the corner but couldn't find it. I ended up walking farther down Sovyetsky Prospeckt and then down another street, onto Tchaikovsky, then past the hotel to the area where I had gone to the bank a day or so ago. Here I found, miracle of miracles, a Caucasian restaurant. Since it was 3 pm, I was not sure I would be able to get any meal but they were quite obliging.
I had a bit of trouble with the Russian menu. My waitress was not comfortable with English so she explained the options, but her explanations were rapid-fire Russian and I understood next to nothing so I took a chance with a cold appetizer and a seafood salad. I ended up with a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and red peppers and a bowl of seafood with tomatoes, cucumbers and red peppers. There was something that looked like spaghetti in the bowl but that turned out to be squid-like. There were 2 mussels and a bunch of tiny octopi - less than 2 cm in diameter. I did enjoy the dish. I didn't have anything like it in the Caucasus though. I also had a non-filtered local beer that was quite good: I got a big one, but should have gotten small, since I had to work to finish it. The waitress was very sweet. I didn't have any small Russian bills so I tipped her with dollars.
I made it back to my room around 4 pm. The maid had not yet done up my room. A reception person came by and I asked for soap and coffee - skip the room cleaning - and I - am quite content now.
I will relax here for he rest of the evening - work on postcards, tomorrow's outing and do some reading. That should do it....
2025-05-22