You may have noticed that this blog has a photo as the "blog photo" - a footpath with a garden. When I started on my trip, I chose this as the portrait for this blog. The photo is of Mawlynnong, which earned the title of the Cleanest Village in Asia from the Discover magazine in 2003.
Cleanliness is a virtue meticulously followed in many parts of the North East
. We saw it especially in Nagaland, in Mizoram and now in Meghalaya. Mawlynnong took it to an altogether new level - they competed for the prize of the cleanest village, won, and have used it as a tourist draw. The village in East Khasi district, close to the Bangladesh border is a tiny one, just some 100 families. It is spotlessly clean, of course, but perhaps no cleaner than some of the Ao Naga villages we have been to. After all beyond a point, how much cleaner can you get. But what is astounding is the way this village has marketed itself.
Mawlynnong is some 70 kms away from Shillong, some 15 kms inside the highway, in the middle of nowhere. But they have built a fine road to their village, signposted it all the way from Shillong and have made it tourist friendly. There's a car park, there are places to eat and there are toilets. Everybody speaks English, which is after all the language of this state. They have now started homestays too. They charge an entry fee for everybody coming here and use this as the maintenance fund for the village
. A wonderful entrepreneurial venture.
The village is postcard pretty. Dotted with colourful plants and flowers, it is charming to the core. All village pathways have been concreted, making this an easy place to come to even during the rains. They have bamboo dustbins everywhere and the rubbish is then composted and used as manure. They politely ask tourists to take all their plastics back with them. Nice simple eating joints complete the picture. Tourists can walk freely around the village. Which is all very fine, but the genuine interaction with villagers and understanding their culture is missing. They can't manage that with all those tourists coming. Its therefore a bit "plastic", but I am hugely appreciative of the way they have created a tourist option out of virtually nothing.
A neighbouring village has taken another advantage of the visiting tourist. Nearby is a living tree root bridge. This is a speciality of Meghalaya
. In these parts there are many swift flowing streams. The Indian rubber tree perches itself on high boulders and sends its roots to the river bed to anchor, thus combating soil erosion. The Khasis noticing this, started to use this as a means of building bridges across streams. Using hollowed out betel nut tree trunks, and sometimes intertwining roots of two trees, they started directing the roots to the opposing bank. When it took root there, a natural root bridge was formed. With stones to fill in the gaps, they now had a perfect strong bridge. It is a living bridge, as it is the roots of the tree that is the bridge. It's a sight to see.
As this place is very close to the Bangladesh border, it is inevitable that I went there too. The village of Dawki is the last village on the Indian side. The road to Dawki is a lovely drive, for you drive with India on the left and Bangladesh on the right. Just past Dawki is the border crossing of Tamabil - a peaceful, quiet border crossing. Indians aren't allowed to cross, without passports and visas, but you can go up to the border stone and take as many photos as you want. Similar is the case with Bangladeshis. If you wish you can stand at the marking stone, the Bangladeshi can do likewise and you can shake hands !! If you have a Bangladeshi visa you can go across easily. But , alas, you cannot take your car. Knowing this I have kept my passport safely at home
Back to Mawlynnong. The way they have marketed themselves, created a tourist potential and wooed the tourist is extremely admirable. Mrs Chatterjee is drawn here and in appreciation they serve macher jol ! They have exploited an economic opportunity for themselves, through their own initiative. This is the perfect example for everybody in the North East to follow.
The Cleanest Village in Asia
Friday, March 13, 2015
Mawlynnong, Meghalaya, India
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Comments

2025-05-23
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Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-03-13
What a charming village!
Shachi
2015-03-13
So pretty. And a "welcome to India" sign - wow, that made me go awwwwwwwwww.
indigoite
2015-03-14
@Ravi- Indeed
@Shachi - Awwwww :)
Vincy Joseph
2015-03-14
So nice to read about this village. heart warming to read such stories. Cleanliness is always an attraction, especially in India, where in the rest of the places its such a rarity. I liked the rules of the village - they take it pretty seriously. What if every other village emulated them?
The root bridges is such an innovation. a good example of rustic wisdom?
indigoite
2015-03-14
@Vincy - Yes, this is a feel good story. There is much ingenuity and ability here.
Anne in Salem
2015-03-15
Obviously, the computer gods are no longer conspiring against me.
This is the perfect example for everybody in the North East to follow. Not sure I agree with this statement. Yes, cleanliness and orderliness are appreciated by tourists but can also border on sterile. Of course the riot of flowers helps mitigate that, but I wonder about the lack of local flavor. You seem to relish the stories of locals and your interactions with them. Does that lack in this town leave a void in the experience for you? It does for this reader.
indigoite
2015-03-16
@Anne- I understand your point, but that is an inevitable by product of encouraging tourism in numbers. The people are friendly, but just that they are seeing tourists in numbers every day and therefore a full interaction is difficult for them and possibly tiresome. But you have to compliment them for the way they have entrepreneurially exploited an opportunity.
Tourism industry does make a place lose its innocence and a bi of the charm but that is a price I would willingly pay for their economic advancement.
Asha
2015-03-16
A pretty post! Your description and first half of the pics make it seem like a fairy tale village. Did you find gnomes and nymphs? :)
And wow! Can one walk over to Bangladesh? and that living root bridge is one example of Indian jugaad. nice idea.
Suja
2015-03-16
A living bridge! What a fantastic idea! I want to see it too!! I too admire cleanliness very much (its no coincidence that I like Switzerland :) ..but its a pity if it leads to a sterile atmosphere. Perhaps a middle ground can be found somewhere.. Great photos!
indigoite
2015-03-16
@Asha - Gnomes no; nymphs yes ! The girls here are nymph like :)
@Suja - Better idea - see the Cherrapunjee post and go to that root bridge. Small matter of 3900 steps which will be child's play for you !!