Lunch at Margherita

Tuesday, February 24, 2015
Lekhapani, Arunachal Pradesh, India
This one's for you Deepa. Regular readers of my blog would know Deepa. She is a charming young lady, somewhere in New England and capable of writing lovely stories, but is now too busy to post on her blog.

When she commented earlier on that she had lived near where I am currently, I took that as an incentive to go there . This is the easternmost part of India that I will go to. There is still a bit of India further on east, but I do no want to brave the roads of Arunachal Pradesh again, so this is as east as I will go.

Deepa lived in Lekhapani for a while and went to school at Margherita. So I went to both those towns and have a few photos for her and for us to cherish, for there is a historical story to be told too.

First Margherita. Astute readers may have noticed that the preposition is "at" and not "with" in the title of this post ! Not the drink. Lunch was at this place in a small dhaba (roadside eatery). A typical Assamese meal that you can see a photo of.

And then Lekhapani, which is essentially an army town. It is also the end of the Indian Railway system - the line ends here, Photos are all for Deepa's benefit.

But as I said, there is a historical story too . At Lekhapani is the start of the famous Stilwell Road that dates back to World War II.

When the Burma Road was cut off by the Japanese during the World War, the Allies needed a road to China to move supplies to the Chinese. General Joseph Stilwell of the US Army proposed a road from Ledo/Lekhapani to Kunming in China through northern Burma that had not fallen to the Japanese. In two years, some 15000 Americans and 35000 Indians got the road done. Joining existing sections, it was some 1000 miles long and it successfully negotiated the Pangsau Pass nicknamed Hell's Pass for being one of the most difficult passes in the world. It was an engineering marvel achieved during a brutal war and remains an unbelievable accomplishment even when viewed today. The Ledo road as it was called then was renamed Stilwell Road in honour of the great American General. It remains the single largest achievement in India by Americans. Its probably a story few Americans know, but should be proud of .

Today, the road does exist, but because northern Myanmar is closed, it is not possible to travel by the road from Ledo to Kunming. If and when, that opens up, this blogger will be the amongst the first to traverse that route. Alas, the sections of the road in Myanmar have fallen into utter disrepair.

I stood at the start of the Stilwell Road at Lekhapani and bowed my head in salute to General Stilwell and the countless Americans and Indians who made the road happen. An untold number died in the endeavour. We take many of historical constructions for granted today, but pay little heed to the many who died in that cause. To them, we owe a big tribute.

I am awed and felt a bit of the history standing on Stilwell Road. Thank you Deepa - I wasn't planning to go there, but because you commented so, I did. I am very glad I went.


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Comments

Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-24

Such a nice thing to do..

Anne in Salem
2015-02-25

What a fun excursion! I am sure your companion appreciated the detour onto real roads not cratered with potholes.

Your lunch looks lovely. Such care was taken. Surely a meal to remember, much like the meals with your homestay hosts.

Vincy Joseph
2015-02-25

Margherita - very unusual english sounding name in a remote place like that? any idea how it came into being? And what a tribute to Deepa? I wish Deepa reads this post soon. I am sure she will tear up :-) :-) Nostalgia is an intense feeling!
In your last travel, we visited the western most tip of India, and this time, the eastern most tip that you can get to.
Did you notice, you are getting better with every post - tugging at our heart strings with the right words and photos :-)

indigoite
2015-02-25

@Ravi - :)

@Anne - Yeah - the nice roads are great, but they will last only two days ! With your encouragement, I might even take more interest in my meals :)

indigoite
2015-02-25

@Vincy - Oh the name is not unusual. This is tea country and the land of the Sahibs of yore. Such names are not uncommon here.

Deepa is working like crazy, and she's a mom too. So, she'll get to the post in six months time :)

Am I getting better ???? Awwwwwwwwww :):)

Suja
2015-02-25

Interesting bit of history! Lunching at Margarita with a Margerita might have been even more fun :)

Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-25

Suja - Ramesh is an old dog. He probably lunched at Margherita with Margherita accompanied by a couple of Margheritas..

Deepa
2015-02-25

I do not know what to say. The pictures of my school and Margherita and the station were just too overwhelming. And yes, that is my school. (I did go for a little while to the Kendriya Vidyalaya too, but it definitely did not have this board). The roads look so much better than when I was there (there were no roads basically). I have been dreaming of going to all the places I grew up in with my son and since I couldn't go, you've brought the places to me. Sending a hug your way. There is nothing I can do to come close to expressing my gratitude or even the rush of emotions I am feeling right now, but here's what I will do, I will do my best to be a good person like you!

indigoite
2015-02-26

@Suja- I take the Fifth, as the Americans would say !

@Ravi - Grrrrrrr

indigoite
2015-02-26

@Deepa - Awwwwww. Glad to have sent you down memory lane :)

Shachi
2015-02-27

So last trip you went to Veraval which is my birth place, and this trip is all nostalgia for Dear Deepa!

It's amazing how we all connect so beautifully in this virtual world. This, I love!!!!

indigoite
2015-02-28

@Shachi - Isn't that lovely . I absolutely love the way we can become friends without having met before. The online world is great. I know Deepa from before though.

Sandhya Sriram
2015-03-01

Only You can do this Ramesh :-) You travelled all the way to this place, to make Deepa's day special. . I am feeling so emotional at the moment, i can just imagine what Deepa would have been feeling.

If we can one day, become even a 10% of what you are, we can claim to have deserved your friendship. for now, its just your kindness on us

indigoite
2015-03-02

@Sandhya - I am turning beet red in embarrassment :):)

asha
2015-03-04

Thanks for bringing Ledo road to light or it would remain unknown to me. And you seem to be touching lives, Ramesh. Loved Deepa's comment to your lovely post on Margherita for her.

2025-05-23

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